The Frigidaire F27 error code indicates the bake relay is stuck in the closed position, causing the oven to heat uncontrollably. To fix this, you must disconnect power and replace the electronic oven control board.
Here's the thing about F27: it's not a code you clear and move on from. I've shown up to jobs where someone reset the breaker, the code went away, and they kept cooking. By the time I got there the thermal fuse had blown and the oven was toast. The relay's physically fused shut. Your oven will keep heating no matter what the display says, so don't use it again until that board is replaced.
When F27 shows up, your oven's basically stuck in the 'on' position whether you like it or not. I've never once seen a software reset fix this, not in fifteen years. The relay's suffered a real mechanical failure, not a glitch. You're looking at a control board replacement, and honestly the sooner the better because this thing's a fire risk sitting there with a stuck relay.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Bake relay contacts welded closed from repeated thermal cycling40%
Control board relay driver circuit failed keeping relay energized24%
Age-related relay degradation after 10+ years22%
Relay contact arcing from voltage spike14%
Symptoms You May Notice
F27 flashes on the display, sometimes alongside F10 if the oven's already climbed into dangerous territory before you caught it.
The bake element stays glowing red even after you press Cancel or the cook timer runs out.
Your kitchen feels like a sauna and the oven temp just keeps climbing way past whatever you set, no matter what buttons you press.
You can hear the element humming or ticking but the display says the oven is off. That's the relay stuck closed feeding it power.
Oven hits 500, 550, maybe 600 degrees on its own with nothing you do making it stop.
Can you reset a Frigidaire oven to clear the F27 code?
Don't try to reset this and keep cooking. Even if flipping the breaker clears the display temporarily, that relay's physically compromised and it'll stick again the moment it heats up. The only real reset here is installing a new control board. Once it's in and power's restored, run a short bake cycle at 350 and confirm the element cycles on and off normally before you trust it again.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverTorx T20 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverFlathead screwdriver (for prying back panel clips)Phone or camera to photograph wiring harness layout before disconnecting
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Control Board (ERC)316557115 · $120–$280
316557115
$120 – $280
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between Frigidaire F27 and F10?
F27 is the board catching itself in the act, basically saying it commanded the relay to open but it's still seeing voltage at the output. F10 is what happens after the oven's already in full runaway mode and the temperature sensor's reading 600-plus degrees. If you caught F27 first, you're in better shape because the oven hasn't necessarily destroyed itself yet. But they can show up together pretty fast once that relay sticks. I've seen both codes on the display at the same time. If you're seeing F10 alongside it, check the thermal fuse too.
Can I just replace the bake relay instead of the whole board?
Technically, yeah. If you've got a soldering iron and know what you're doing, you can pull that relay off and solder a replacement on for about three bucks. I've done it in my shop plenty of times. But I don't recommend it for a home repair. These boards are tested as a complete certified assembly, and if you modify it and something goes wrong later, that's a conversation you don't want to have with your insurance company. Just swap the whole board. It's cleaner, it's safer, and you won't be second-guessing your solder joints every time the oven acts weird.
My oven got really hot before I could cut power. Did I damage anything else?
Possibly, yeah. If it ran hot long enough, the thermal fuse on the oven cavity might've blown. That's a separate $15-20 part and it's literally designed to sacrifice itself in this exact situation. You'll know if it blew because after you replace the board the oven still won't heat at all. Also check the bake element visually since sustained overheating can shorten its life. I'd inspect both before calling the repair done so you don't put a new board in and then wonder why it still doesn't work.
How much does a Frigidaire control board cost?
The board for most Frigidaire ranges showing F27 runs about $120-180 depending on the model. Part number 316557115 covers a lot of the common ones but always verify with your actual model number first. You can order from AppliancePartsPros, PartSelect, or Amazon. A repair shop is going to charge you that same $150-180 for the part alone plus an hour of labor on top of it. This is one where doing it yourself saves real money. It's an intermediate repair, not a beginner one, but it's totally doable in about 45 minutes.
Is it safe to use the broiler while I wait for the part?
No. Don't use the oven at all. The broiler's on a different element but shares the same compromised control board, and you don't want any heat event running through a board that's already partially failed. Keep the unit unplugged or the breaker off until the new board's installed. I know it's annoying, especially if it happens right before a holiday. Order the part with expedited shipping and make sandwiches for a few days.
Will F27 come back after I replace the board?
If you install a quality OEM or OEM-equivalent board, it shouldn't. The code comes from the relay hardware failing, and a new board has new relays with fresh contacts. Where people run into repeat failures is when they buy a cheap no-name aftermarket board with low-quality relay components. I replaced three boards last Tuesday on a job where the homeowner had tried a $45 board off some random site and it failed inside of four months. Stick with genuine Frigidaire or a trusted supplier and you should be good for another decade.