Warning: Disconnect power before servicing.

Ge Dryer Error Codes

All Ge dryer error codes with step-by-step troubleshooting, multimeter specs, and OEM part numbers.

10 error codes

CodeMeaning
Error 353Error 353 means the drive motor has failed, stalled, or tripped its thermal overload and the drum can't turn. It's a motor and drive system fault, not a drain issue, not a sensor. Something's physically wrong with the rotation system inside the cabinet.
highintermediate
GE-TIMER-ADVANCEThe timer motor needs voltage to physically turn an internal cam and advance the dial. On most GE dryers, that voltage runs through the cycling thermostat, which only closes when the drum reaches temperature. So if your heat's not working, the timer basically just sits there and waits for a signal that's never coming.
moderateintermediate
HUBThe dryer's control board detected a fault in the drive system, most likely the drum motor, motor wiring, or drum rotation feedback. When any of those signals fall outside expected range, the board throws a numeric code and cuts power to the motor to prevent further damage.
lowbeginner
NOISEYour GE dryer's drum is supported by plastic glides up front and a ball-and-socket bearing in the rear. When those wear out, the drum drops slightly and starts rubbing against metal surfaces. Other noises come from a worn idler pulley, fraying belt, or debris caught in the blower wheel spinning at 1200+ RPM.
moderateintermediate
NOT-HEATINGThe heating element isn't energizing, so the drum is tumbling through room-temperature air. On electric models that means the 240V circuit to the element is broken somewhere - blown fuse, open element, bad thermostat, or a wiring fault. Gas models have their own ignition chain that can fail at a few different points.
moderateintermediate
NOT-SPINNINGSomething broke the mechanical link between the drive motor and the drum. Usually that's the belt (a flat ribbed band that wraps around the drum and idler pulley), or the belt switch that cut power to the motor when it sensed the belt was gone. Either way, motor's spinning in the dark.
moderateintermediate
NOT-TURNING-OFFThe dryer's end-of-cycle detection failed. Either the moisture sensor bars aren't reading conductivity correctly (clothes conduct electricity when wet, so the sensor knows when they're dry), the thermistor isn't reporting the right temperature to the board, or on older mechanical GE models, the timer motor contacts physically fused closed and can't advance past the drying phase.
moderateintermediate
SMELLSSomething inside is overheating that shouldn't be. Either lint has accumulated near the heating element and is scorching every time it kicks on, a rubber belt is slipping and burning, or the plastic drum glides are grinding down from friction. None of this is normal and all of it needs attention before it gets worse.
moderateintermediate
TAKING-LONGYour dryer's control board is seeing heat cycles that exceed normal run time, usually because restricted airflow is forcing the high-limit thermostat to cut the heating element off early. The drum keeps spinning but without consistent heat, moisture can't escape the load.
moderateintermediate
WONT-STARTThe dryer's control system received a start command but can't complete the motor start sequence. Something in the safety or mechanical circuit is open, whether that's a blown thermal fuse, a failed door switch, a broken belt, or a busted start switch. The board's fine but it won't fire the motor until that circuit closes.
moderateintermediate