Ge Error Codes

Find troubleshooting guides for all Ge error codes.

193 error codes across 11 appliance types

Airconditioner

Code	Meaning	Severity
TROUBLESHOOTING	This is a catch-all diagnostic guide for GE brand window-mounted air conditioners. Not a specific error code, just the full picture of what actually fails on these units in the field. Covers airflow restrictions, capacitor failures, thermistor problems, fan motor issues, and drain concerns. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	One or more of the core systems in your GE window unit, airflow, drainage, or the compressor circuit, has hit a failure point. Most of these aren't emergencies. Most of them you can actually fix yourself with basic tools and about an hour of your time. moderate	moderate

Dehumidifier

View all 1 codes →

Code	Meaning	Severity
E6	E6 means the GE dehumidifier's capacitive humidity sensor is reading out of range, or it's open/shorted. The board's not getting a valid signal from the sensor, so it can't regulate humidity at all and throws the fault code. moderate	moderate

Dishwasher

View all 42 codes →

Code	Meaning	Severity
1H	The high-limit thermostat tripped because water temperature inside the tub exceeded the safe maximum threshold high	high
888	The main control board has detected an internal fault or crashed into an unrecoverable error state. It's basically the processor throwing up its hands and refusing to continue. high	high
999	The 999 code fires when the UI board and main control board lose their data connection. Either the signal's corrupted, the voltage on the communication line dropped out, or the firmware just locked up and needs a hard reboot to clear itself. moderate	moderate
ADORA	Overview of the GE Adora dishwasher product line including model numbers, distinguishing features, and most common repair issues low	low
BUTTONS-NOT-WORKING	On GE dishwashers, unresponsive buttons almost always trace back to the touchpad membrane rather than the control board itself. The ribbon cable connecting the membrane panel to the board corrodes or delaminates, breaking the circuit path for individual keys or entire rows. Older GE Adora models are especially prone to this because the membrane was bonded with a single-sided adhesive that dries out over time. moderate	moderate
C1	The dishwasher has detected that water is failing to drain from the tub within the required timeframe, typically 3 to 5 minutes. This usually points to a physical blockage in the drain line, air gap, or pump assembly. moderate	moderate
C2	C2 means the control board counted down its drain timer (usually 7-10 minutes) and the water level sensor never confirmed the tub was empty. The pump ran the whole time. It just couldn't push the water out. moderate	moderate
CAFE-TROUBLESHOOT	GE Cafe dishwashers are GE's top-tier line with stainless interiors, bottle jets, and a real alphanumeric display that shows you actual error codes. When something goes wrong, the display gives you a specific fault like PF, C2, or a numeric code instead of just blinking at you. Way more useful than the entry-level GE models. moderate	moderate
CFE	The main control board lost its communication signal with the user interface board in the door. Basically the two computers can't pass data back and forth anymore, so the whole machine locks up and throws CFE to tell you something's wrong with that link. high	high
DIAG-MODE	Diagnostic mode is a built-in factory tool that lets the control board display stored fault codes and run individual component tests on demand. When you enter the sequence, the board basically freezes normal operation and hands you a direct window into what's been happening inside the machine. low	low
ERROR-CODES	GE dishwashers use a 2-3 character alphanumeric fault code system to flag specific subsystem failures. When a sensor or component goes out of range, the control board logs the fault and stops the cycle. Each code points to a specific system: water supply, drain, heating, sensors, or the board itself. moderate	moderate
FAULT-353	Fault code 353 is a specific internal control board diagnostic code on select GE dishwasher models. It's the board's way of flagging a hardware-level failure, usually in the processor or onboard memory. The machine can still power on but can't execute any cycle logic because the board's core functions are compromised. high	high
FED	The drain pump ran its full timed cycle but the water level sensor never sent the 'all clear' signal back to the control board. Could be actual water still in the sump, or more likely the pressure switch just didn't register the drop in pressure when the tub emptied out. moderate	moderate
FILLS-NO-WASH	The dishwasher fills with water normally but the wash cycle never starts. No spray arm rotation, no washing action, water just sits there in the tub going nowhere. high	high
FLASHING-LIGHTS	Flashing lights mean the control board detected a safety condition it can't run past. Usually that's the door latch not confirming closed, a flood sensor tripped by water in the base pan, or the main board and control panel losing communication with each other. moderate	moderate
FTD	The control board started the drain cycle, let the pump run its full allotted time, and the water level sensor never confirmed the tub was empty, so it killed the cycle and logged the failure. moderate	moderate
GREEN-LIGHT	The green light is a low-voltage DC power indicator built right into the main control board. When it's on, the board's transformer is converting 120V AC to the lower DC voltage the board runs on. It tells you the board has power, nothing more, nothing less. low	low
H2O	The dishwasher did not detect sufficient water entering the tub within the expected fill time moderate	moderate
HOW-TO-START	The control board needs a confirmed cycle selection, a Start command, and a latched door signal all within a short window before it'll open the fill valve. No tools needed. Just timing and a firm push on that door. low	low
HUB	Hub page covering all GE dishwasher error codes including H2O, FTD, IH, FED, 1H, 888, CFE, PR5, and NE moderate	moderate
HUMS-NO-WATER	The control board sends power to the inlet valve solenoid, which creates that audible hum as it tries to pull the valve open. But no water's actually entering the tub. Either something's blocking the supply before it gets to the valve, or the solenoid is energized but the mechanical components inside are physically stuck and won't move. moderate	moderate
IH	The inlet heater circuit failed to reach or maintain the target temperature during the wash fill phase high	high
KEEPS-OFF	The dishwasher repeatedly stops and loses power or exits cycle mode during operation high	high
LEAKING	When your GE dishwasher is leaking, water's escaping somewhere it shouldn't during the wash or drain cycle. Could be a failed rubber seal, a cracked plastic spray arm, or a pump that's starting to weep. GE uses a specific sump design that develops leaks at the motor shaft over time, which is worth knowing before you start poking around. moderate	moderate
LIST	This is a master list of fault codes GE dishwasher control boards use to flag specific hardware failures, sensor errors, or drainage problems that happened mid-cycle. Each code points to a specific subsystem, which is actually pretty useful when you're trying to narrow down what broke. moderate	moderate
LOCK-CONTROLS	The control lock disables every button on the panel so nothing works until you unlock it. It's a child lock and accidental-press prevention feature built into the software. Nothing's broken, no sensor has failed. The machine's fine, it's just waiting for you to tell it to accept input again. low	low
MONOGRAM-REPAIR	GE Monogram dishwashers run on their own platform, not shared with GE Adora or Profile, and the control panel is buried in the top edge of the door where you can't see it while it's running. When something goes wrong you can't diagnose it with the standard GE button sequences. The Monogram line has its own service mode and its own beep codes, which is why a lot of techs who don't work on these regularly miss the actual cause. high	high
NE	The control board detected a loss of power or an electrical circuit fault preventing normal operation high	high
NOISE	GE dishwashers use a Piranha hard food disposer to grind up food particles instead of relying on a filter alone. Unusual noise usually means the disposer, drain pump, or circulation motor is dealing with a blockage, foreign object, or worn bearings. Can be completely normal operation or the start of a real mechanical failure. moderate	moderate
NOT-CLEANING	The dishwasher runs a complete cycle but dishes come out with visible food residue, grease, or spotting. No mechanical failure has happened, but water distribution or temperature is compromised enough that the wash action can't actually get your dishes clean. low	low
NOT-DRAINING	At the end of every wash cycle, your GE dishwasher fires up the drain pump to push water out through the drain hose to your sink or disposal. When that fails, either the pump can't spin because something's jammed in it, there's no power getting to the pump, or water's physically blocked from leaving the tub through the hose or check valve. moderate	moderate
NOT-DRYING	The dishwasher finished its cycle but didn't evaporate moisture off your dishes. Either the Heated Dry option didn't run, the Calrod heating element can't generate heat, the rinse aid system isn't sheeting water off during the final rinse, or on Profile models the AutoSense moisture sensor is misreading conditions and cutting the dry cycle short. moderate	moderate
ORANGE-LIGHT	An orange or amber indicator light on the GE dishwasher control panel is flashing or solid low	low
OVERFLOW-DETECTION	The dishwasher control board has detected a high water level condition via the float switch or pressure sensor, triggering a safety drain mode to prevent flooding. high	high
PR5	The control board sent a signal to the pressure switch and got back something it couldn't make sense of, either no response at all or a reading way outside the expected range. It can't confirm whether the tub has water in it, so it won't let the cycle run. moderate	moderate
QUIET-POWER	GE's Quiet Power rating ranks dishwashers from QP1 at roughly 60 dBA down to QP6 at around 44 dBA, based on insulation layers and motor design. When a machine suddenly gets loud, something physical changed inside. The rating didn't get worse, something broke or got stuck. low	low
RESET	Procedure to clear error codes, cancel a cycle, or restore the control board to its default state on GE dishwashers low	low
SMELLS	The dishwasher's filter, sump, and drain components have accumulated food debris and bacterial biofilm that's releasing decomposition gases into the tub. Basically you've got rotting organic matter sitting in standing water somewhere in the system, and every time you open that door, it hits you. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOT	Comprehensive troubleshooting guide for GE dishwasher problems in order of frequency moderate	moderate
TURN-ON-OFF	GE dishwashers stay in low-power standby continuously. Touching any control panel button wakes the display. The Start/Reset button manages cycle start, pause, and cancel. Only cutting power at the breaker fully de-energizes the control board. low	low
WONT-START	The dishwasher has power and the display works but pressing Start does not begin a wash cycle moderate	moderate
WONT-TURN-ON	The dishwasher has zero power. Display is dark, no LEDs anywhere on the panel, nothing responds to any button, and there's no sound at all. It's not paused, not locked out, not mid-cycle. There's genuinely no electricity reaching the control board right now. high	high

Dryer

View all 10 codes →

Code	Meaning	Severity
Error 353	Error 353 means the drive motor has failed, stalled, or tripped its thermal overload and the drum can't turn. It's a motor and drive system fault, not a drain issue, not a sensor. Something's physically wrong with the rotation system inside the cabinet. high	high
GE-TIMER-ADVANCE	The timer motor needs voltage to physically turn an internal cam and advance the dial. On most GE dryers, that voltage runs through the cycling thermostat, which only closes when the drum reaches temperature. So if your heat's not working, the timer basically just sits there and waits for a signal that's never coming. moderate	moderate
HUB	The dryer's control board detected a fault in the drive system, most likely the drum motor, motor wiring, or drum rotation feedback. When any of those signals fall outside expected range, the board throws a numeric code and cuts power to the motor to prevent further damage. low	low
NOISE	Your GE dryer's drum is supported by plastic glides up front and a ball-and-socket bearing in the rear. When those wear out, the drum drops slightly and starts rubbing against metal surfaces. Other noises come from a worn idler pulley, fraying belt, or debris caught in the blower wheel spinning at 1200+ RPM. moderate	moderate
NOT-HEATING	The heating element isn't energizing, so the drum is tumbling through room-temperature air. On electric models that means the 240V circuit to the element is broken somewhere - blown fuse, open element, bad thermostat, or a wiring fault. Gas models have their own ignition chain that can fail at a few different points. moderate	moderate
NOT-SPINNING	Something broke the mechanical link between the drive motor and the drum. Usually that's the belt (a flat ribbed band that wraps around the drum and idler pulley), or the belt switch that cut power to the motor when it sensed the belt was gone. Either way, motor's spinning in the dark. moderate	moderate
NOT-TURNING-OFF	The dryer's end-of-cycle detection failed. Either the moisture sensor bars aren't reading conductivity correctly (clothes conduct electricity when wet, so the sensor knows when they're dry), the thermistor isn't reporting the right temperature to the board, or on older mechanical GE models, the timer motor contacts physically fused closed and can't advance past the drying phase. moderate	moderate
SMELLS	Something inside is overheating that shouldn't be. Either lint has accumulated near the heating element and is scorching every time it kicks on, a rubber belt is slipping and burning, or the plastic drum glides are grinding down from friction. None of this is normal and all of it needs attention before it gets worse. moderate	moderate
TAKING-LONG	Your dryer's control board is seeing heat cycles that exceed normal run time, usually because restricted airflow is forcing the high-limit thermostat to cut the heating element off early. The drum keeps spinning but without consistent heat, moisture can't escape the load. moderate	moderate
WONT-START	The dryer's control system received a start command but can't complete the motor start sequence. Something in the safety or mechanical circuit is open, whether that's a blown thermal fuse, a failed door switch, a broken belt, or a busted start switch. The board's fine but it won't fire the motor until that circuit closes. moderate	moderate

Frontloadwasher

View all 1 codes →

Code	Meaning	Severity
E22	The washer triggered a Fill Timeout error. The control board didn't see water hit the proper level within its eight-minute window, so it bailed out and threw the code to protect the drum and motor. moderate	moderate

Icemachine

View all 2 codes →

Code	Meaning	Severity
TROUBLESHOOTING	Comprehensive troubleshooting for GE ice makers covering common failures like frozen fill tubes, valve issues, and motor faults. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	This guide covers the systematic diagnostic process for resolving common mechanical and sensor failures in GE Opal nugget ice machines. moderate	moderate

Microwave

View all 9 codes →

Code	Meaning	Severity
F3	The F3 error code on a GE microwave indicates a shorted touch pad or keypad circuit. This occurs when the control board detects that a button has been pressed or shorted for more than 60 consecutive seconds. moderate	moderate
F3	F3 means the control board detected a continuous closed circuit on the touchpad for more than 60 seconds straight. A button is stuck or the internal membrane layers fused together and the board thinks someone's been holding a key forever. It shuts everything down rather than risk an unintended start. high	high
HUB	GE microwave ovens display error codes including PF (power failure), Sensor Error, Food Error, and various F-codes. GE uses a simpler code system than Whirlpool - most errors are descriptive text rather than alphanumeric codes. low	low
NOT-HEATING	The magnetron is the vacuum tube responsible for generating microwaves. A failure means the component has either lost its vacuum, the internal filament has broken, or the ceramic magnets have cracked, resulting in no heat production. high	high
PF	PF on a GE microwave simply means Power Failure - the power was interrupted and the microwave needs its clock reset. This is NOT an error code indicating a fault. PF is the most commonly searched GE microwave 'error' despite being a normal informational message. low	low
SENSOR-ERROR	Sensor Error on a GE microwave means the built-in humidity sensor detected abnormal moisture readings during a sensor cooking cycle. The sensor measures steam output from the food to determine when cooking is complete, and the error triggers when readings are outside expected parameters. low	low
TROUBLESHOOTING	A comprehensive guide to diagnosing and repairing common failures in GE over-the-range and countertop microwaves. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	General diagnostic guide for GE Spacemaker over-the-range microwaves. When one of these units acts up, it's usually something in the safety circuit or the high-voltage section. The machine's designed to shut itself down if it doesn't see the right signals, which can make it look way more broken than it actually is. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	Comprehensive guide to fixing common GE over-the-range microwave issues. moderate	moderate

Oven

View all 48 codes →

Code	Meaning	Severity
BAKE-ELEMENT	The bake element is the primary heating coil located at the bottom of the oven. It converts electricity into radiant heat to cook your food during the bake cycle. high	high
BURNER-DIAG	Something's breaking the circuit between your wall outlet and the heating coil. Could be the element itself burning out internally, the control switch behind the knob failing, the receptacle block where the burner plugs in getting charred, or the wiring connecting all those pieces. The 240 volts that need to flow through just aren't getting where they're going. moderate	moderate
BURNER-NOT-WORKING	One of the radiant heating zones beneath the ceramic glass surface isn't getting power or can't convert it to heat, usually because the internal heating ribbon has physically snapped or the control switch has stopped completing the circuit. moderate	moderate
BURNER-REPLACE	GE's burner replacement process means swapping out the failed heating element on your cooktop, either a plug-in coil that pulls straight out of a socket, or a radiant element mounted under glass that needs the cooktop lifted to access. The element's internal wire has basically broken or shorted. moderate	moderate
DOOR-STUCK	During self-clean, the oven locks its door with a motorized latch and won't release until a thermal limit switch confirms the cavity has cooled below roughly 550-600 degrees. If that switch is stuck, the motor is jammed, or the control board lost its mind during a power flicker, the unlock signal never comes and you're stuck outside your own oven. moderate	moderate
F10	The F10 error code on a GE oven indicates a runaway temperature condition where the control board detects that the oven temperature has exceeded safe operating limits, typically over 650 degrees Fahrenheit during normal baking. high	high
F2	The F2 code fires when the control board sees the oven cavity temp go past roughly 650°F during normal bake or broil, or gets a signal from the temperature sensor that looks like a runaway condition. The board shuts everything down and locks you out as a safety response. high	high
F2	F2 on a GE oven means the control board detected an over-temperature condition in the cavity. Either the oven is actually running dangerously hot because a relay won't shut off the element, or the temperature sensor is sending a bad resistance reading that makes the board think it's way hotter than it is. high	high
F2	GE oven F2 means the oven temperature sensor detected a reading above 615 degrees F sustained for 35 seconds or more, triggering a thermal runaway safety shutdown. Unlike F3 or F20 which are sensor faults, F2 means the oven actually reached (or appeared to reach) a dangerous temperature - most often because a relay on the control board is stuck closed, keeping the bake element on continuously. high	high
F20	F20 on a GE oven means the RTD temperature sensor is shorted - its resistance has dropped below 10 ohms, which the control board interprets as a dangerously high temperature reading. GE's RTD spec is 1080 ohms at room temperature, so a near-zero reading triggers an immediate safety shutdown. high	high
F200	GE oven F200 indicates a communication failure between the main control board and the upper secondary board on double-oven or specific GE range models that have two separate control boards. The upper board manages display and user interface functions while the main board controls heating elements, and F200 fires when data communication between them is interrupted. high	high
F3	GE oven F3 means the RTD temperature sensor circuit is open - either the sensor probe has failed internally or the wiring between the sensor and control board is broken. The control board detects an infinite-resistance reading (no circuit) where it expects approximately 1080 ohms, and displays F3 as a safety response. high	high
F350	F350 on a GE oven indicates the oven control board (main board) has detected an internal fault or has failed self-diagnostic checks. Unlike F2 or F3 which point to external components, F350 is a board-level fault where the control board itself is reporting its own failure. high	high
F4	The F4 code fires when the control board detects a shorted circuit in the oven temperature sensor. Basically the sensor's internal resistance has collapsed, so the board's getting a reading that makes no sense. It can't trust what the oven temp actually is, so it refuses to run. high	high
F4	The control board checks the oven sensor's resistance continuously. When it reads infinite (open circuit) or near-zero (shorted), it throws F4 and shuts down the heating system because it literally can't tell how hot the oven is getting. moderate	moderate
F7	GE oven F7 means the control board has detected a shorted or continuously-pressed key on the touch panel. The board interprets a stuck or shorted membrane keypad button as a persistent function command, and displays F7 as a safety response to prevent unintended oven operation from an always-on input signal. moderate	moderate
F96	F96 on a GE oven means the cooling fan that draws air past the control board has stopped working or is running below its required speed. GE convection ranges use this fan to prevent the control board from overheating during and after baking cycles. Without the fan running, the board's electronics overheat and the oven displays F96 as a protective shutdown. moderate	moderate
F97	F97 means the main control board in the front panel lost its communication signal with the secondary board sitting in the back guard housing. These slide-in models run a constant data signal between the two boards through a multi-pin harness. When that signal drops or gets interrupted, you get F97. moderate	moderate
Fault 18	The control board runs a quick sanity check on the RTD temperature sensor the moment you power the oven on. Fault 18 means that sensor's resistance value fell outside the expected window during that startup check. It's not saying the sensor is dead, it's saying the reading wasn't what the board expected to see at room temp before the oven attempted to operate. moderate	moderate
Fault 353	Fault 353 on a GE oven indicates a communication failure between the oven control and the range cooktop control module. This code appears exclusively on GE Profile and GE Cafe models with SmartHQ Wi-Fi integration, where the oven and cooktop sections communicate over an internal data bus. A loss of that communication triggers Fault 353 as a safety and functional alert. moderate	moderate
GE-ELEMENT-FAIL	A GE oven element failure occurs when the bake or broil heating component develops a physical break or an internal short circuit, preventing the oven from reaching the set temperature. high	high
GE-GAS-LOW-HEAT	The oven can't reach or hold its target temperature. Something's preventing a consistent flame, whether that's a weak igniter that won't fully open the gas valve, a sensor sending bad data to the board, or heat just leaking out through a worn door seal. moderate	moderate
GE-GAS-STOVE-MODEL-LOOKUP	This is a lookup guide, not an error code. It walks you through finding the model ID tag on your GE gas stove so you can pull the correct exploded parts diagram. Without that exact model string, you're basically guessing at parts and hoping they fit. low	low
GE-GLASSTOP-REPLACE	GE glass stove top replacement is the process of removing a damaged, cracked, or pitted ceramic cooktop assembly and installing a new factory glass surface while transferring the existing heating elements. high	high
HEATING-ELEMENT	The heating element is a resistive coil that converts 240-volt electricity into heat. When it fails, the circuit breaks and current can't flow, so the coil stays cold. The oven display and timer still work fine because those run on a separate low-voltage circuit inside the control board. high	high
HOW-TO-RESET	The reset clears whatever temporary software state the control board got stuck in. Think of it like rebooting your phone when an app freezes. The board reloads its base programming and any stuck relay commands or error flags get wiped out completely. low	low
HUB	GE ovens display F-codes (F2, F3, F20, F96, F97) on standard ranges and numeric Fault codes (Fault 18, Fault 353) on newer GE Profile and GE Cafe models with SmartHQ Wi-Fi. Each code maps to a specific subsystem failure. Knowing the exact code narrows the diagnosis from the control board, RTD temperature sensor, cooling fan, or touch panel. high	high
IGNITER	The igniter is a resistive heating element that glows white-hot to both light the gas burner and provide the electrical current necessary to open the gas safety valve. high	high
IGNITION-FAULT	The ignition system either isn't generating a spark at the surface burner electrodes, or the oven's resistance igniter can't draw enough amperage (usually 3.2 to 3.6 amps) to open the gas safety valve. Gas is present but it's not getting lit. high	high
LOC	The LOC code on a GE oven indicates that the Control Lock or Child Lock feature has been activated, which disables all keypad functions to prevent accidental use. low	low
NO-HEAT	The ignition circuit isn't completing. Either the igniter isn't pulling enough amperage to open the gas valve, a thermal fuse has cut power to the whole circuit, or the safety valve solenoid itself has failed. Gas can't flow to the burner, so nothing lights. high	high
NO-SPARK	The spark module sends a high-voltage pulse to the electrode tip, which jumps across a small air gap to ignite the gas. When that arc doesn't happen, either the module isn't firing, the electrode can't conduct properly, or something's bleeding the voltage off before it gets there. high	high
NO-SPARK	This happens when the ignition system can't produce the high-voltage arc needed to light the gas. Usually it's a dead spark module, a cracked ceramic electrode that's leaking voltage to the chassis instead of the burner, or a lack of signal coming from the control board or burner switch. high	high
NOT-HEATING	The burner's not lighting, or it's lighting but can't hold a steady flame. Either the igniter's too weak to trigger the gas valve, there's a break somewhere in the ignition circuit, or a safety component like the thermal fuse tripped and cut power to the whole system. moderate	moderate
NOT-HEATING	The oven's heating system has lost continuity somewhere in the circuit. Could be a burned-out element, a failed igniter that can't draw enough current to trip the gas valve open, a blown thermal fuse, or a dead temperature sensor that's telling the control board the oven is already hot. moderate	moderate
NOT-PREHEATING	Your oven's supposed to hit the target temp within about 15 to 20 minutes. When it doesn't, something isn't producing heat. Could be a broken heating element, a worn-out gas igniter that won't open the gas valve, or a temperature sensor that's lying to the control board about how hot it actually is inside. high	high
NOT-TURNING-ON	Either the whole thing is dead with a blank display, or the display works but nothing heats up. Both cases come down to either missing voltage somewhere in the circuit or a single component that's failed and broken the path to the heating element. high	high
NOT-WORKING	Basically the electrical path between your wall power and the heating element got cut somewhere. Could be the breaker, the element itself, a fuse, or the board. The oven's got 240V coming in and needs to deliver that to the bake coil, and something in that chain broke. high	high
NOT-WORKING	The oven is failing to initiate a bake or broil cycle, often due to a failed heating component, a blown safety fuse, or a lack of incoming power or gas. high	high
OVEN-NOT-WORKING	The appliance is receiving power to the cooktop and control panel, but the specific heating components or safety circuits for the oven cavity have failed. moderate	moderate
PF	The PF code on a GE oven stands for Power Failure. This code appears on the digital display to notify the user that the electronic control board lost power and has recently been re-energized. low	low
RESET-BUTTON	This is basically the process of clearing a logic error or error code on a GE oven. There's no physical button anywhere on these units. A reset happens through a power cycle at the breaker or a specific keypad sequence, depending on which error you're dealing with. moderate	moderate
SMOKING	One of the oven's heating elements, the oven floor, or the door gasket is in contact with grease or residue that's vaporizing under heat. It's not always a component failure. Sometimes it's just burnt food. But it can absolutely lead to a real fire if you ignore it. moderate	moderate
STOVE-NOT-LIGHTING	Your GE gas range is failing to create the spark or glow needed to ignite the gas. The cooktop uses high-voltage spark electrodes, and the oven uses a silicon carbide glow bar that has to reach around 2500°F to crack open the gas safety valve. moderate	moderate
STOVE-TOP-COVERS	GE stove top covers are protective accessories you lay over the glass or coil surface of your range when you're not cooking. They protect against scratches, impact damage, and grease buildup while also doubling as extra prep or counter space in tighter kitchens. low	low
TROUBLESHOOTING	Generic troubleshooting for GE electric ovens and ranges, covering heating failures, burner issues, and common electronic faults. moderate	moderate
WONT-START	The oven's getting no voltage to the heating elements or igniter, or the control board isn't completing the circuit to start a cook cycle. Could be a physical break in the power path, a failed safety device like the thermal fuse, or the board itself isn't responding to button inputs. Basically, power's not getting where it needs to go. moderate	moderate
YELLOW-FLAME	When a GE gas oven's flame turns yellow, the gas-to-air mix is off. There's not enough oxygen reaching the burner before ignition happens, so the gas can't burn cleanly. That incomplete combustion is what causes the yellow color, the soot, and any carbon monoxide your oven's putting out. high	high

Refrigerator

View all 33 codes →

Code	Meaning	Severity
88 88	The 88 88 display means the control board either failed its startup self-test or lost communication with the user interface panel. Every display segment fires at once, then the system just hangs instead of moving on to normal operation. Usually a power event kicked this off. moderate	moderate
CI	The CI error code on a GE refrigerator stands for Check Ice Maker. It indicates that the ice maker assembly has failed to complete a harvest cycle or the motor is struggling to reach its home position within the programmed time limit. moderate	moderate
DOOR-AJAR	The control board's monitoring a door switch or magnetic reed sensor. When that sensor doesn't signal 'closed' within two minutes, the alarm fires. Could be the door physically open, could be the switch itself is bad. The board basically thinks your door's been hanging open, even if it looks totally shut from where you're standing. low	low
EC	The control board lost accurate temperature data from the evaporator coil zone. Either the thermistor probe monitoring that coil has failed and is sending garbage readings, or the defrost system can't clear frost fast enough and the coil is getting buried in ice. Both situations kill the fridge's ability to cool properly. high	high
EF	The evaporator fan motor inside the freezer compartment has stopped running or isn't being detected by the control board. This fan pulls air across the cold evaporator coils and pushes it throughout the freezer and fresh food sections. No fan means no airflow, which means no cooling anywhere in the unit. high	high
ERR	The main control board and a secondary board (door board, dispenser board, or inverter board) have lost communication. The refrigerator may continue cooling but will have limited or no display and control functionality. moderate	moderate
FF	FF stands for Freezer Failure. The control board triggers it when the freezer temp has stayed above the safe cooling threshold, usually 20 degrees Fahrenheit, for more than two hours. It doesn't mean the compressor's dead. It just means cold air isn't getting where it needs to go. high	high
FREEZING	The air damper or thermistor is giving the control board bad info, so the cooling system keeps running even when the fresh food section is already too cold. Basically the board thinks the fridge is warm when it's not, and temperatures drop well below the 37°F target. moderate	moderate
GE-CODES	Your fridge's control board monitors temperature, motor function, and the defrost cycle constantly. When something falls outside normal parameters, it logs a fault code and fires an alert. Most codes point to either a temperature problem in one compartment or a component that's stopped working the way it should. moderate	moderate
HUB	GE's control board polls the fan motors, thermistors, and defrost heater constantly, checking voltage and resistance against programmed thresholds. When something falls out of range, it throws a code and logs it internally. This hub covers what each code means and which component to test first. low	low
ICE-MAKER	The GE ice maker runs a timed harvest cycle: it fills with water, freezes it, heats the mold just enough to release the cubes, then ejects them into the bin. When something breaks in that chain, whether it's water flow, temperature, or the harvest motor, the whole cycle stops and you get zero ice. moderate	moderate
LEAKING	Your GE refrigerator is actively losing water somewhere in the system. Could be the defrost drain backing up and overflowing, the water inlet valve dripping, or a seal failure in the water filter housing. The fridge itself is fine mechanically, but the water management system has a breach somewhere that needs to be tracked down. moderate	moderate
NC	The fridge isn't reaching its target cooling temperature. The compressor's either not running or can't maintain adequate refrigerant pressure. Both compartments will warm to room temperature if you don't fix this, and it happens faster than you'd expect. critical	critical
NOISE	Your GE refrigerator is producing abnormal sound from one of its core mechanical systems, usually the evaporator fan motor, condenser fan, compressor start relay, or water inlet valve solenoid. These parts run constantly and wear out, and noise is almost always the first warning before something actually stops working. moderate	moderate
NOT-COOLING	The refrigerator's sealed cooling system or airflow is compromised. Either the compressor can't reject heat through dirty coils, a fan has stopped moving cold air into the fresh food section, or the defrost system iced over the evaporator and blocked airflow entirely. The box can't maintain temperature. moderate	moderate
PF	PF stands for Power Failure. The control board detected that its power supply got interrupted, either briefly or for a long stretch. It's not a mechanical fault, it's more like a notification light that stays on until you tell the board you've seen it. low	low
PF	PF stands for Power Failure. The control board detected that power dropped out and came back. That's it. The board just wants you to know it noticed, so it holds the code on the display until you clear it manually. low	low
PF	PF stands for Power Failure. The main control board lost its supply voltage at some point, whether for a split second or a few hours, and when power came back it flagged the event so you'd know the cooling was interrupted. low	low
PROBLEMS	This covers what's actually happening when your GE bottom freezer acts up. Usually it's a failure in the defrost system, the airflow path, or a sensor that's gone out of spec. None of it is random. Every symptom points to something specific. moderate	moderate
PROBLEMS	Your GE French door fridge uses a dedicated evaporator fan to pull cold air across the freezer coils and push it up into the fresh food section. When that airflow gets interrupted, the freezer stays cold but the fridge warms up. The defrost system melts ice off those coils every 8 to 12 hours. moderate	moderate
SYMPTOM	The ice maker module has stopped cycling through its fill, freeze, or harvest stages, or the water supply side is too restricted to fill the mold correctly. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	General diagnostic guide for common failures in GE branded upright freezing units. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	General diagnostic and repair procedures for cooling failures, frost buildup, or mechanical noise in the freezer section of a GE side-by-side refrigerator. The freezer generates all the cold air for both compartments, so a failure here affects the whole unit. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	General diagnostic guide for cooling failures, power issues, and lid seal problems in GE chest freezers. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	The ice maker's internal thermostat, mold heater, motor, or water inlet valve has failed or is being affected by freezer temps that are too warm to trigger a harvest cycle. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	A comprehensive guide to identifying and fixing the most frequent mechanical and electrical failures in GE side-by-side refrigerator models. moderate	moderate
WATER-DISPENSER	When you press the dispenser lever, it signals the control board to open the water inlet valve and let line pressure push water through the filter, up through the door, and out the nozzle. A failure anywhere in that chain, from the valve to the door line to the filter to the switch itself, kills the flow. moderate	moderate
XWFE-FILTER	Your fridge is trying to scan the RFID chip embedded in the back of the XWFE filter and getting no response back. Could be the chip isn't lined up with the reader, the chip's cracked, or the reader inside the housing is dirty or dead. That's literally all this code means. low	low
dE	The dE error code stands for defrost error. Basically the defrost cycle has been running more than 48 hours or it couldn't reach the cutoff temperature to end itself. Something in that defrost loop isn't working, whether it's the heater, the thermostat, or the thermistor telling the board when to stop. high	high
tC	The tC code means the TwinChill or Turbo Cool system has detected a failure in the fresh food compartment specifically. The control board can't get the upper section to hit target temperature because the fan isn't spinning, the sensor's lying, or both. high	high
tC	tC stands for Turbo Cool. It means the fridge's control board has kicked everything into high gear to drop the internal temp as fast as possible. The compressor's running flat out and the evaporator fans are spinning faster than normal. It's a status message, not a fault. low	low
tF	tF stands for Turbo Freeze. Your GE detected the freezer temp went up, so it's cranking the compressor and fans to max to pull the temp back down fast. It's a status indicator, not an error. The machine's doing exactly what it's supposed to do. low	low
tf	tF stands for Turbo Freeze. It's not a fault code, it's a status indicator telling you the freezer's running at maximum cooling capacity. The compressor runs continuously instead of cycling, and the evaporator fans spin faster than normal until the freezer hits a really deep cold. low	low

Washer

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Code	Meaning	Severity
BLINKING-LIGHTS	The washer's control board has detected a system fault, a lid lock failure, or a motor communication error, causing the status LEDs to flash as a warning signal. moderate	moderate
Canceled	The control board aborted the active wash cycle. Could be a user action like the door popping open or the selector getting bumped, could be an auto-abort from a detected fault, or it's a communication dropout between the main board and the motor control board. moderate	moderate
DIAGNOSTIC-MODE	Instructions for entering and running GE washer diagnostic/service mode on GFW front-load and GTW top-load models, including test cycle sequences and reading output codes. low	low
DRAIN-FILTER	The filter sits between the drum and the drain pump, basically acting like a trap for anything small that slips past the drum holes. When it's clogged enough that water can't push through fast enough, the pump strains and the control board throws Error 353. low	low
Door Error	The door lock assembly did not engage or the control board did not receive confirmation that the door is locked. The machine will not start or has stopped mid-cycle due to an unconfirmed door lock state. moderate	moderate
E2	E2 means there's a motor speed control fault on GFW front-load models. The inverter board that drives the brushless motor has detected an error. Either the board itself has failed, the motor stator has a winding fault, or the communication between the inverter and main board has broken down. high	high
E22	E22 means drain timeout. The control board's been trying to pump water out for several minutes, but the pressure sensor still thinks the tub's full. So it cuts power and throws the code to keep the pump motor from burning out. moderate	moderate
E22	The E22 fires when the pressure switch doesn't detect the water level rising fast enough. The control board counts down a fill window, usually around 8 minutes, and if the water hasn't hit the required level by then, it cuts the cycle and throws this code. moderate	moderate
E23	E23 means the washer couldn't empty the drum within the programmed four-minute window. The pressure sensor still reads 'water present' after the pump's been running, so the control board stops the cycle and flags it. high	high
E23	The E23 error code indicates a drain timeout. Your GE washer attempted to pump out the water but the water level sensor did not detect an empty tub within the programmed four minute window. moderate	moderate
E31	The control board powers a pressure transducer that measures air pressure in a sealed tube connected to the tub. When the water level changes, the pressure changes, and the sensor sends back a frequency signal. E31 means that frequency is either out of range or totally absent from the board's perspective. high	high
E42	The E42 on a GE washer means the control board caught the motor pulling way more current than it should. Could be a mechanical restriction jamming the drum, an electrical short in the windings, or the inverter board sending bad voltage. Either way, the board shut it down before something burned up. high	high
E71	E71 means the main control board sent a signal to the motor inverter board and got nothing back. The inverter sits between the control board and the drive motor, converting AC power into the variable-frequency output that actually spins the drum. No communication, no spin. high	high
Error 18	The water level sensor detected that water hit or exceeded the maximum safe fill height inside the drum. The overflow protection circuit kicked in, cut the fill signal, and stopped the wash cycle to keep water from spilling onto your floor. high	high
Error 27	Error 27 means the pressure sensor (water level switch) is sending a reading outside the expected range, or the control board isn't receiving a valid water level signal. The machine can't confirm how much water's in the drum, so it stops. moderate	moderate
Error 353	Error 353 indicates the drain pump failed to evacuate water from the drum within the required time. The pump motor may have failed, or an obstruction is preventing the impeller from turning. high	high
FLASHING-LIGHTS	Flashing lights on a GE washer mean the control board paused the cycle because it detected a fault. Usually it's the lid lock, the motor, or a drainage timeout that triggers it. moderate	moderate
FRONT-LOAD-HUB	GE GFW and Profile front-load washers run a constant self-diagnostic loop between the main control board and the motor inverter. When a sensor reading falls outside the programmed range, or two boards stop talking to each other, the washer halts and stores a numeric fault code that points you at which system gave out. moderate	moderate
Fault Codes	The washer's internal control board has detected a specific operational failure, such as a fill timeout, drain issue, or motor communication error, and has paused the cycle to prevent damage. moderate	moderate
H2O	The H2O error on a GE washer means the control board timed out waiting for the tub to fill. It's watching for a pressure change through the air dome system, and if water doesn't reach the target level fast enough, it throws the code and stops the cycle dead. moderate	moderate
H2O Supply Error	The washer tried to fill but didn't detect sufficient water entering the drum within the allotted time. The fill system hit its timeout limit, usually because supply pressure's too low or there's a blockage somewhere between the wall valve and the internal solenoid. high	high
HUB	The main control board and the UI board are constantly swapping data during a cycle. When that data bus drops out, whether from a loose plug, a cracked wire, or a firmware hiccup, the machine throws HUB and locks up. Think of it like two walkie-talkies on the same channel when one battery starts dying. low	low
LID-ERROR	The control board is waiting for a specific electrical signal from the lid lock assembly before it'll let the motor spin. When that signal doesn't show up, either because the switch failed or the lid never physically seated correctly, it throws this code and stops the cycle dead. moderate	moderate
LIGHTS-FLASHING	One or more indicator lights on the control panel are flashing in a specific pattern. These blinks are GE's way of flagging fault states when the display doesn't show a numbered error code, or when the machine's stuck in a particular mode. Which lights are blinking actually matters a lot here. moderate	moderate
NOISE	Your GE washer is telling you something's physically wrong with a moving part. Could be the drive belt slipping on the motor pulley, the agitator dogs stripped from overloading, a tub bearing failing, or just a coin stuck in the pump. The sound type and when it happens in the cycle is your best diagnostic clue. moderate	moderate
NOT-DRAINING	A GE washer not draining has standing water in the drum. GE front-loaders with UltraFresh have a drain pump filter accessible from the lower front panel. GE top-loaders require accessing the pump from underneath. moderate	moderate
NOT-DRYING	The washer completes its cycle but clothes come out soaking or excessively wet. The spin cycle is not extracting enough water from the load. This is a washer spin issue, not a dryer problem. moderate	moderate
NOT-FILLING	Error 18 is GE's fill timeout fault. The control board opens the inlet valve and starts a timer. If the pressure switch does not confirm the tub reached the target water level within that window (typically 8 to 12 minutes depending on model), the board aborts the cycle and stores Error 18. The machine detected that water flow was too slow or absent to complete filling safely. moderate	moderate
NOT-SPINNING	The control board is looking for a confirmed spin signal from the motor tachometer, or a locked door on front-loaders, before it'll run the spin cycle. If that signal doesn't come through, it shuts down to protect the motor and transmission. That's basically what's happening when you get the no-spin situation. moderate	moderate
NOT-STARTING	The washer's got power but won't kick off a cycle when you hit Start. Something in the safety circuit isn't completing, or the control board's not getting the signal it needs to fire up the motor. Usually it's the lid lock not confirming 'closed' to the board. high	high
PROBLEMS	General troubleshooting for common mechanical and electrical failures specific to GE integrated laundry centers. moderate	moderate
PROBLEMS	General diagnostic guide for common mechanical and electronic failures in GE top-load and front-load washing machines. moderate	moderate
PROBLEMS	General category covering the most common mechanical and electrical failures GE washers develop over time, including motor, pump, lid lock, valve, and sensor faults across both top-load and front-load configurations. Usually wear-related or sensor failure, not catastrophic damage. moderate	moderate
PROFILE-HUB	The GE Profile control board monitors its smart subsystems constantly. When it can't get a valid signal back from the SmartDispense optical sensor, the UltraFresh vent actuator, or the internal dispense pump, it throws a hub-level fault. Basically the machine's brain is saying it expected a response from a component and got nothing back. moderate	moderate
RESET	When a GE washer throws a fault, the main control board stores that error code in memory and locks out the active cycle. A reset forces the processor to dump that stored state and restart from scratch, clearing the board's short-term memory so it can try running again without that old fault in the way. low	low
RESET-STUCK	The washer control board has encountered a persistent hardware fault or software hang that prevents the standard reset sequence from clearing the error status. moderate	moderate
SERVICE-MODE	The washer has entered its internal Service Mode, a technician-only menu used to retrieve stored fault codes and test individual components like the pump, motor, and valves. moderate	moderate
SMELLS	The washer isn't throwing a fault code. It just stinks. What's actually happening is mold, bacteria, or sulfur-producing microbes colonizing warm damp surfaces inside the machine, specifically the door boot folds, drum baffles, drain pump housing, or a clogged vent path that's trapping moisture after every cycle ends. moderate	moderate
TANK-LOW	Tank Low is a maintenance alert on GE SmartDispense models indicating the built-in detergent or fabric softener reservoir is running low and needs a refill. It's not a fault code and it won't stop the machine from running, but it'll stop dispensing soap until you top it off. low	low
TROUBLESHOOTING	Symptom-based troubleshooting guide covering the 9 most common GE washer problems across GTW top-load and GFW front-load models. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	General troubleshooting for common GE washer failures that often lead to warranty service requests, focusing on DIY checks for lid, drain, and power issues. moderate	moderate
WONT-START	The control board is refusing to send power to the motor because at least one safety interlock isn't satisfied. That could be a locked control panel blocking inputs, an open lid switch circuit, a failed door latch solenoid that never confirms the door is closed, or a thermal fuse that cut power after a voltage spike. moderate	moderate
dL	dL stands for Door Lock failure. The control board sent the signal to engage the lid lock, waited for electrical confirmation back from the microswitch inside the lock assembly, and never got it. Something in that loop broke, either mechanically or electrically. moderate	moderate
dr	The control board started the drain pump and watched for the pressure sensor to confirm water was leaving. After roughly four minutes, water was still detected in the tub. So the board shut everything down and threw the dr code rather than risk spinning a full tub at high speed. moderate	moderate

Waterheater

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Code	Meaning	Severity
GE-SOFTENER-TS	Your GE softener throws this when it can't complete a normal regeneration cycle. Either the motor didn't move the valve to the right position, or the brine didn't get pulled from the salt tank like it's supposed to. The resin bed stays loaded with hardness minerals and just stops exchanging ions. moderate	moderate