GE Gas Oven Not Heating: Troubleshooting and Repair Guide

Quick Answer

A GE gas oven not heating is almost always caused by a failing igniter. Even if it glows, it may not be drawing enough current to open the gas valve. Check for an orange glow under the oven floor; if it glows for over a minute without fire, replace the igniter.

I've been fixing GE gas ovens for years and they're honestly pretty bulletproof, except for one thing: the igniter. It's basically a wear item, like a brake pad. It'll start weakening around year five or six, and your first clue is usually that your oven takes longer to preheat than it used to. Don't ignore that slowdown. A weak igniter eventually just won't pull enough current to open the gas valve, and then you've got nothing.

GeOvenSeverity: moderateDifficulty: intermediate92% DIY Success

Time to Fix

30–90 min

Difficulty

intermediate

Parts Cost

$45 – $180

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver

GE Gas Oven Not Heating: Troubleshooting and Repair Guide

OK so here's the deal. GE gas ovens don't have a ton of parts that fail, which actually makes them pretty easy to diagnose. You're almost certainly looking at the igniter, and replacing it yourself is a $60-90 fix. The repair takes maybe 30 minutes and you don't need any special tools. I replaced three of these last week alone. It's one of the more satisfying DIY oven repairs because the fix usually works and works right away.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Weakened or cracked glow-bar igniter55%

Failed oven control board relay20%

Faulty gas safety valve15%

Blown thermal fuse or wiring issue10%

Symptoms You May Notice

You set the oven to 350 and twenty minutes later the food's still cold, preheat taking way longer than it ever used to.
There's a faint gas smell for a second or two when you turn it on, then nothing, no ignition, no flame, just cold air.
Clicking sound keeps repeating over and over but no flame ever catches, or the igniter glows orange for a full minute and still absolutely nothing happens.
The display reads 350 degrees but your oven thermometer says 80 and the rack's cold to the touch.
Broiler fires right up and works fine, but switching to Bake does absolutely nothing.

Can you reset a Ge oven to clear the NOT-HEATING code?

GE gas ovens don't have a dedicated reset button. Best you can do is flip the circuit breaker for the oven off, wait a full 60 seconds so the board completely powers down, then flip it back on. Sometimes this clears a glitched relay, especially after a power event. Honestly though, if the igniter's physically weak or the valve's gone, a reset won't help. Try it first since it takes two minutes, but don't count on it.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverDigital multimeter with AC volts and ohms settingsWork glovesFlashlight or headlamp

Service / Diagnostic Mode

On many GE models, press and hold the 'Bake' and 'Broil' pads simultaneously for 3 seconds until the display changes to enter the technician setup and error code history mode.

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range40–400 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Oven Igniter (Glow Bar)WB13K21 · $45–$85	WB13K21	$45 – $85
Gas Safety ValveWB19K10044 · $110–$180	WB19K10044	$110 – $180

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my GE oven glow orange but not light?

That's the classic weak igniter situation and it's the most common thing I see on GE gas ovens. The igniter's a resistance element, and as it ages it develops micro-cracks that raise its electrical resistance. It can still get hot enough to glow, but it can't pull the 3.2 to 3.6 amps needed to heat the bi-metal strip inside the gas valve. That strip has to reach a certain temperature before it physically opens the valve to let gas through. So you get the glow, you get the heat, but the valve stays closed. Replacing the igniter fixes this almost every single time.

How much does it cost to fix a GE oven that won't heat?

DIY, you're looking at $50-90 for an OEM igniter. I'd stick with OEM on this one because the amp draw spec is really specific and some aftermarket igniters run a little weak, so you end up with the same problem six months later. If you call a tech, expect $200-300 total including the service call and labor, higher in some markets. If it turns out to be the control board, add another $150-300 in parts and you're getting close to new range territory, so get a second opinion at that point.

Can I still use the stovetop if the oven isn't heating?

Yeah, in most cases the stovetop's completely fine. The surface burners use a different ignition system, spark modules, not the glow-bar setup the oven uses. They run on separate circuits too. So as long as you don't smell gas coming from anywhere, the top burners should work normally while you're waiting for parts or a tech to show up. Just don't use the oven itself until the problem's sorted.

Should I clean my oven if it's not heating?

No. Don't run self-clean. Self-clean runs the cavity up past 900 degrees and puts every electrical component in there under serious stress. If there's a thermal fuse that's already borderline, self-clean will blow it. If the igniter's weak, the extreme heat can finish it off completely. Fix the heating issue first, then worry about cleaning. Running self-clean on a malfunctioning oven can easily turn an $80 igniter job into a $300 board replacement.

How do I know if it's the igniter or the control board?

The glow test tells you a ton. If the igniter glows orange but nothing lights, it's almost certainly the igniter, not the board. If there's no glow at all, do the resistance test first. Igniter reads OL? Replace it. Igniter tests fine electrically but still no glow and no heat? Then you check for voltage from the board. Honestly, boards don't fail that often on GE ranges. I'd say maybe 1 in 10 no-heat calls I go on turns out to be the board. The igniter is the culprit 8 times out of 10. Always start there.

Models Known to Experience NOT-HEATING Errors

This repair applies to most Ge ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

JGB660SEJSS, JGB700SEJSS, PGB911SEJSS, JGS760SELSS, JGBS66REKSS, JGBS61REKSS, JGB735SPSS, JGBS30DEKWW

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on May 20, 2025