To fix a GE range that will not light, start by cleaning the burner heads and electrodes with a stiff brush to remove carbon buildup. If the oven is the issue, a weak igniter that glows but fails to open the gas valve is the most common culprit I see in the field.
Look, when I show up to a call like this and the homeowner says 'the burner just won't light,' nine times out of ten it's something simple, clogged ports or a wet spark module from a spill they forgot about. But if it's the oven? That's usually a dying igniter, and ignoring it means either no dinner or, worse, gas slowly seeping into your kitchen because the safety valve never fully opened.
OK so here's the deal with GE ignition faults. Surface burner problems and oven problems are totally different animals, even though they both fall under 'won't light.' Surface burners use high-voltage sparks, the oven uses a glow bar that has to pull enough current to trip a gas valve. A new igniter runs about $30-50 in parts and most homeowners can handle it. The spark module is a bit trickier.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Dirty or clogged burner components40%
Failed oven igniter (glow bar)35%
Moisture in ignition switches15%
Defective spark module10%
Symptoms You May Notice
You turn the knob, hear clicking, smell a faint whiff of gas, but nothing lights and you end up grabbing a long lighter or just giving up.
The oven igniter glows a dull orange for 90 seconds or more but the burner never ignites, so the oven just sits there with that faint gas smell until you cycle the power.
One specific burner clicks like crazy whenever you turn any knob on the range, even a completely different burner, and it won't stop even after a flame is going.
There's a visible crack on the little white ceramic tip of an electrode, and in a dark kitchen you can actually see the spark jumping to the wrong spot.
Continuous rapid clicking from all burners at once with nobody touching anything, usually right after a spill or on a humid day.
Can you reset a Ge oven to clear the IGNITION-FAULT code?
There's no specific reset sequence for ignition faults on GE ranges. To do a basic power reset, unplug the range or flip the breaker off for 60 seconds, then restore power. If continuous clicking won't stop after a spill, unplug it and let it dry out for 24-48 hours before plugging back in. That actually works more often than you'd think, honestly.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlat head screwdriverMultimeter with resistance and voltage settingsWire brush or stiff toothbrushNeedle or straightened paper clipNeedle nose pliersFlashlight or headlampNon-contact voltage testerWork gloves
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range40–400 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my GE range keep clicking after the burner is lit?
Almost always moisture. Something spilled and got into the burner switch or the spark module is damp from steam or a boilover. Unplug the range, take the burner cap and head off that burner, and let everything air out for a full day. You can speed it up with a hair dryer on low heat pointed at the burner area for 10-15 minutes. If it keeps clicking after it's completely dry, the spark module probably has a failed component and needs replacing. Module runs about $40-70 depending on the model. Try the drying trick first though, seriously works about half the time and costs you nothing.
Can I light my GE gas range with a match during a power outage?
Yeah, surface burners are fine with a long lighter or match. Turn the knob to the lowest setting, hold the flame near the burner head, and it'll catch. Use a long lighter though, not a short match, because you don't want your fingers near the burner when it lights. The oven is a different story. The gas safety valve on GE ovens requires electricity to stay open, so there's no way to manually light it without power. Surface burners only during an outage. Don't try to jury-rig the oven, it's not worth it.
How long should a GE oven igniter last?
Five to seven years is about average for the silicon carbide igniters GE uses. But I've seen them go at three years on ranges that run the self-clean cycle a lot. That 900-degree self-clean cycle is brutal on the igniter. If you've been doing self-clean every couple months, that igniter is probably on borrowed time. Honestly, if your oven is over five years old and taking longer than a minute to ignite, just replace the igniter before it completely fails. The part is cheap, maybe $30-50, and it's an easy DIY. Don't wait until you're standing there with guests coming over.
Why do all the burners click when I only turn one knob?
That's actually how GE designed it. The spark module fires all the electrodes at the same time whenever any burner knob is turned. It's one module sending pulses to every electrode simultaneously. Since gas is only flowing to the burner you turned on, that's the only one that lights. Sounds weird but it's totally normal. If all burners are clicking and none of them light when you turn a knob, that's a different problem, usually a module issue or a wiring problem at the switch. One burner clicking and not lighting is usually a dirty electrode or clogged port.
What does a GE oven igniter replacement cost, and can I do it myself?
Parts run $25-55 for a genuine GE igniter, or aftermarket for around $15-20. The OEM part is worth the extra few bucks because I've seen cheap aftermarket igniters fail in under a year. To replace it yourself: unplug the range, remove the oven bottom panel (two screws usually), disconnect the igniter wire harness, unscrew the old igniter (two screws), and reverse for the new one. The whole job is maybe 20-30 minutes. Don't touch the new igniter with your bare hands, skin oils create hot spots that shorten its life. Use a cloth or gloves.
Is an ignition fault dangerous? Should I stop using the range?
For surface burners, don't keep clicking for more than a few seconds with gas flowing. If it doesn't light, turn the knob off and wait a minute for any gas to clear before trying again. Building up a pocket of gas that ignites all at once is bad. For the oven, if the igniter glows but the oven never lights, the safety valve is doing its job and not letting gas flow without confirmed ignition, so you're not in immediate danger. But get it fixed soon. An igniter that's weak today will be dead in a week, and then you've got no oven at all.
Models Known to Experience IGNITION-FAULT Errors
This repair applies to most Ge ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include: