Fridge and Freezer Not Getting Cold Enough: Expert
Quick Answer
In my 15 years on the road, I have found that when both sections lose their cool, it is usually because the condenser coils are packed with dust or a fan has stopped spinning. Start by vacuuming the coils underneath or behind your unit to ensure the system can actually shed heat.
Both sections dying at the same time almost always points to a shared system problem, not two separate failures. I've seen people buy a new fridge because they assumed it was toast, but nine times out of ten it's a $15 relay or a coil cleaning that fixes everything. Ignore this long enough and you'll burn out the compressor, which turns a $15 fix into a $400+ repair or a full replacement. Catch it early and you're probably fine.
Fridge and Freezer Not Getting Cold Enough: Expert
OK so here's the deal. When both the fridge AND freezer go warm at the same time, that's actually a clue in your favor. It means the problem is upstream, somewhere in the shared cooling system like the condenser coils, the condenser fan, or the start relay. I've fixed probably 200 of these calls and honestly most of them cost the homeowner under $50 in parts. Don't let anybody talk you into a new fridge before you've checked these basics.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Symptoms You May Notice
- Your milk and leftovers are spoiling 2-3 days early and the fridge compartment feels basically room temperature when you reach in.
- Ice cream is soft or completely liquid, and the freezer smells like it's been sitting open.
- There's a solid 1-2 inch layer of frost covering the entire back wall of the freezer, which tells you defrost has been failing for weeks already.
- You can hear the compressor clicking on and then shutting off every 2-3 minutes, never settling into that steady hum it normally does.
- The fridge runs constantly, motor never shuts off, but nothing's getting cold.
Can you reset a Generic refrigerator to clear the NOT-COOLING code?
After you've made your repair, unplug the fridge for a full 5 minutes, then plug it back in. Give it 4-6 hours before you judge whether it's cooling properly. You're looking for 37 degrees in the fridge section and 0 degrees in the freezer. On Samsung models, hold the top two panel buttons simultaneously for 8 seconds to reset the control board after any repair.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
| Part Name | OEM Number | Estimated Price |
|---|---|---|
| Condenser Coil BrushGeneric-Brush-01 · $10–$15 | Generic-Brush-01 | $10 – $15 |
| Evaporator Fan MotorBrand-Specific · $45–$120 | Brand-Specific | $45 – $120 |
| Compressor Start RelayGeneric-Start-PTC · $15–$40 | Generic-Start-PTC | $15 – $40 |
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take for a fridge to get cold after cleaning coils?
Why is my freezer cold but my fridge is warm?
Can I use a hair dryer to defrost my freezer?
What is that clicking noise coming from the back of my fridge?
How do I know if my compressor is actually dead versus just needing a relay?
Same Fix on Other Brands
Models Known to Experience NOT-COOLING Errors
This repair applies to most Generic refrigerators with this error code. Common model numbers include:
Samsung RF28HMEDBSR, Samsung RF263BEAESR, Whirlpool WRS325SDHZ, Whirlpool WRF535SWHZ, GE GFE26JSMSS, LG LRMVS3006S, Frigidaire FFHD2250TS, Kenmore 795.72053
Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026