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ErrBase

Generic Error Codes

Find troubleshooting guides for all Generic error codes.

287 error codes across 12 appliance types

Airconditioner

View all 7 codes →
CodeMeaning
CLEANINGRoutine maintenance for a portable AC means cleaning the intake filters, draining the condensate pan, and clearing dust off the internal coils. When any of these get neglected, the unit works harder than it should, uses more electricity, and breaks down way earlier than it's supposed to.
low
E1The control board sends a small reference voltage through the NTC thermistor and measures the resistance to calculate room temperature. When that resistance falls way outside the expected range, usually because of an open circuit or a dead short, the board can't calculate a temp and throws E1 to protect the system from running blind.
moderate
E4Compressor Overload or High Pressure
moderate
E5E5 signals one of two things. On portable ACs, the internal condensate collection tank is full and needs draining before the unit will run again. On window units, it's an overcurrent protection trip, meaning the compressor's drawing too many amps and the board cut power to protect the motor from burning out.
moderate
E8The control board detected either compressor overload (pulling too many amps, usually from heat buildup on the condenser) or evaporator freeze (the indoor coil dropped below the anti-freeze threshold, around 32-35°F). Both conditions cut the compressor off immediately to prevent permanent damage to the sealed system.
moderate
FLThe internal condensate reservoir filled to capacity and triggered the float-activated safety switch. The float rises with the water level, and once it hits the top it cuts power to the compressor to prevent overflow and keep water away from the unit's electronics and your floor.
moderate
NOT-COOLINGThe unit's powered on, the fan's running, but the refrigeration cycle isn't doing its job. Either airflow is blocked somewhere, a key electrical component has failed, or the refrigerant charge is too low. The room stays hot no matter how long the unit runs.
high

Dishwasher

View all 9 codes →
CodeMeaning
CLEANINGFood particles, grease, and mineral deposits from your water have built up in the filter, spray arms, or internal plumbing to the point where water can't circulate with enough pressure to actually clean anything off your dishes.
low
DIRTY-DISHESThe dishwasher's failing to remove food soil because something's interrupting the circulation cycle, whether that's a blocked filter, restricted spray arms, low water fill, or not enough heat to break down grease during the wash.
moderate
E1The dishwasher has detected a problem with the water filling process, either failing to reach the required level in time or sensing a leak in the base pan that has triggered the flood switch.
high
ERER means the control board detected a failure in the heating circuit or lost communication with the temperature sensor. When it sends power to the heater and doesn't see the water temp climb within its timeout window, it throws this code and kills the cycle.
high
HOW-CLEANThis isn't an error code, it's a maintenance procedure. Food debris, grease, and mineral deposits build up in the filter, spray arms, drain sump, and door gasket over time. When enough gunk accumulates, the machine can't clean effectively and starts developing drainage problems and odors.
moderate
HOW-RESETA dishwasher reset forces the electronic control board to clear its active memory, halt any in-progress cycle command, and restart its operating software from a known-good state. This resolves software hangs, corrupted cycle data from power surges, and sensor miscommunications that do not indicate a hardware failure.
moderate
LOWER-SPRAY-ARMThe lower spray arm is the primary rotating wash component located at the bottom of the dishwasher tub. It uses water pressure to spin and spray hot water and detergent onto the dishes in the lower rack.
moderate
SPRAY-ARMThe spray arm is the rotating plastic wand that takes pressurized water from the wash pump and flings it in a spray pattern across your dishes. It also spins itself using jet propulsion from the nozzles pushing water outward. No spin means no cleaning, basically just soaking your dishes in dirty water.
moderate
WATER-FILTERThe dishwasher water filter traps food particles and debris during the wash cycle so they don't get recirculated back onto your dishes or grind through the drain pump. When it's clogged or torn, that protection's gone and everything downstream starts to suffer.
moderate

Dryer

View all 30 codes →
CodeMeaning
CLEANINGYour dryer pushes hot, moist air through a duct that exits your home. Every single load deposits lint in that duct. Over time that buildup restricts airflow, traps heat inside the dryer, and makes everything work way harder than it should. This procedure uses a spinning brush to scrape those duct walls clean from the inside.
low
CLEANINGRoutine maintenance using a specialized brush tool to remove lint buildup from the exhaust venting system to prevent fires and improve efficiency.
low
CLEANINGRoutine removal of lint, debris, and obstructions from high-capacity commercial exhaust systems to maintain airflow and fire safety.
low
CLEANINGThe process of removing heavy lint accumulation and obstructions from high-volume commercial exhaust systems to ensure safety and operational efficiency.
low
CLEANINGRoutine maintenance to remove lint buildup from the exhaust ducting to prevent fires and improve efficiency.
low
CLEANINGLint and debris accumulate inside the exhaust duct over time, restricting airflow. When the duct can't move hot, moist air out fast enough, the dryer runs hotter, takes longer, and the heating element burns out way ahead of schedule. Your lint trap only catches about 75% of what comes off your clothes.
low
CLEANINGA dryer duct cleaning system is a DIY maintenance kit with connectable flexible rods and a nylon brush head that scrub combustible lint off the interior walls of your exhaust vent. It's not fixing a broken part, it's just clearing out the gunk that builds up over time.
low
DRYER-NO-HEATThe motor's getting power and spinning the drum just fine, but the heating circuit is dead somewhere. Could be a blown safety cutoff, a broken coil, a cracked igniter, or a blocked vent that caused something to overheat and fail. The drum keeps spinning because it's on a completely separate circuit from the heater.
high
F-CodesDryer error codes are diagnostic signals from the control board flagging a failure in the heating, sensing, or airflow systems. Most modern dryers use these codes to protect the machine from overheating or fire hazards when a component's reading falls outside its safe electrical range.
moderate
F01F01 flags a primary failure inside the main electronic control board. Usually it's a dead relay, a corrupted memory chip, or a broken signal path between the board's internal circuits. Basically the dryer's brain stopped talking to the rest of the machine.
high
F02The main control board detected a button signal that's been active for more than 30 seconds without a cycle running. It's basically the board saying a key's stuck closed. Could be a real stuck button, a shorted trace on the interface, or a bad connection between the two boards.
moderate
F70F70 means the main control board sent a signal to the user interface board and got no response, or the UI tried to ping the main board and got nothing back. The communication line between those two components is broken. Could be physical connection or one of the boards actually died.
high
GAS-VALVE-COILSThe gas valve solenoid coils are basically little electromagnets that physically pull the gas valve open when they get current. When they fail, that valve stays shut even though your igniter is glowing away doing its job. No open valve means no gas, means no flame, means cold wet laundry.
high
HEATING-COILThe heating coil is a resistive wire element that glows red hot to heat the air inside your dryer. When it breaks or shorts out, the dryer will tumble but fail to produce heat.
high
HEATING-ELEMENTThe heating element is a resistive wire coil that generates heat when electrical current passes through it. A failure means the coil has physically broken or shorted, preventing the dryer from warming the air.
high
HOW-CLEAN-VENTYour dryer pushes hot moist air out through a duct to the exterior of your house. When lint builds up in that duct, airflow drops, heat builds up inside the drum, and the appliance either trips a thermal fuse or, in the worst case, the lint itself catches fire. This isn't a sensor issue or a mechanical failure. It's just blockage.
moderate
HOW-RESETA dryer reset clears the non-volatile memory cache on the electronic control board, forcing all sensor inputs to re-initialize from baseline values. On modern inverter-drive units (LG, Samsung), it also resets the motor controller. A power cycle resets both the main board and any secondary control modules simultaneously.
moderate
LINT-OVERLOADThe dryer's filtration or exhaust system is failing to capture or expel fabric fibers, leading to excessive accumulation on clothes, inside the drum, or within the appliance cabinet.
moderate
NO-HEAT-GENERICThe drum's spinning and the timer's ticking, but the heat circuit's got a break in it somewhere. Either a safety device tripped, the heating coil snapped, or you're not getting full voltage to the machine. The motor runs fine on 120V but the heater needs the full 240 to fire up.
high
NO-STARTThe dryer's got power to the electronics but something's blocking the signal or breaking the circuit before it ever reaches the drive motor. Could be a safety component that tripped, a mechanical switch that died, or the motor just isn't getting the go-ahead to spin.
high
NOT-HEATINGThe dryer is completing its mechanical cycle (spinning) but the heating circuit is interrupted, preventing the air from reaching the required temperature to dry clothes.
high
NOT-SPINNINGThe dryer's drive system took a mechanical hit from the drum getting jammed. When the drum stops but the motor keeps pulling, something snaps or blows. Usually it's the rubber drive belt or the thermal fuse protecting the motor, sometimes both at once.
high
NOT-TURNINGThe drive system failed. Either the motor isn't getting the signal to run, or the physical connection between the motor and drum snapped or slipped off. The drum just sits there while your wet clothes do nothing and your heat bill goes up.
high
STOPPED-WORKINGThe dryer's electrical start circuit got interrupted. Something, usually a thermal fuse or door switch, cut power to the motor to prevent the dryer from running under unsafe conditions. It's a built-in protection system, not a random failure.
high
SYMPTOMDryer drum will not rotate, leaving clothes damp and stationary inside the drum
high
TIMER-NOT-ADVANCINGThe timer is a mechanical or electronic controller that routes 120 or 240 volts to the motor, heater, and gas valve in sequence. When the internal motor stops turning the gear train, or the contacts burn out, power never gets routed where it needs to go and the whole cycle just falls apart.
high
TOO-MUCH-LINTExcessive lint piling up inside the drum, on clothing, or leaking from the cabinet. Something's broken in the airflow loop, either the exhaust is restricted or there's a gap somewhere in the system that's letting lint bypass the filter entirely.
high
VENT-CLEANINGYou're physically scrubbing and pushing built-up lint out of the dryer's exhaust duct, from the exterior cap all the way back through the wall. When that duct's clear, hot moist air can actually escape the way it's supposed to instead of backing up into your machine.
low
VENT-CLEANINGWhen your exhaust duct fills up with lint, your dryer can't push hot humid air out fast enough. The heat has nowhere to go, drying times skyrocket, and the lint itself becomes a fire hazard. This whole process is just blasting that buildup out of the pipe before it causes a real problem.
low
VENT-HOODLint escaping to the outdoors indicates a breach in the dryer's filtration path, typically caused by a failed lint screen, a blocked internal duct, or a broken exterior vent cover flap.
high

Furnace

View all 5 codes →
CodeMeaning
BLOWING-COLDWhen your furnace blows cold air, the control board is either running the blower without a call for heat, or the ignition sequence fired but the flame sensor didn't confirm combustion so the gas valve shut off after a few seconds as a safety measure. Either way, the blower keeps pushing air that was never actually heated.
moderate
LIMIT-TRIPWhen the heat exchanger gets too hot, usually around 160-200°F depending on the unit, the bi-metal strip inside the limit switch warps and opens the circuit to the gas valve. Burners go out. Blower keeps running to dump the heat. It's basically your furnace saying it's overheating and shutting itself down before something melts.
high
NO-FLAME-DETECTEDThe control board started the ignition sequence but didn't receive the microamp flame signal within the safety window, usually 4-7 seconds. So it cuts the gas valve to prevent unburned gas from building up inside the heat exchanger. It's a safety lockout, not a mechanical failure.
high
NOT-HEATINGThe furnace is receiving a thermostat call for heat and may power on, but the burners are not igniting or sustaining a flame, producing no useful heat output. This indicates a failure at one of the combustion sequence stages: ignition, flame sensing, gas supply, or draft verification. It may also indicate a protective lockout triggered by a high-limit trip, flame rollout, or pressure switch fault.
moderate
WARRANTY-GUIDEA home warranty is basically a service contract that pays for repairs when your stuff breaks down from normal wear and tear. In Michigan you want one built to handle heavy furnace use, burst pipe risk, and the kind of punishment that comes from 30-below winters hitting systems that are already 10-15 years old.
low

Gascooker

View all 1 codes →
CodeMeaning
NOT-HEATINGThe oven fails to initiate the combustion process despite receiving a command from the control, often due to a safety component preventing gas flow.
high

Icemachine

View all 1 codes →
CodeMeaning
PROBLEMSGeneral troubleshooting for industrial-grade ice production units, focusing on mechanical failures, water flow issues, and environmental factors that halt ice production.
moderate

Microwave

View all 7 codes →
CodeMeaning
F1F1 means the main control board detected a stuck or continuous key-press signal from the keypad membrane, or it's getting garbage data from the touch interface and shut itself down as a safety measure. Basically the processor sees a button that won't let go, or it's lost communication with the keypad entirely.
high
F2The control board has detected a shorted or stuck key on the touch membrane for longer than 60 seconds. Basically the board sees a button that never lets go, so it locks everything down and throws the F2 to tell you something's wrong with the keypad circuit.
moderate
F3F3 means the control board detected a key held down way longer than any human would actually press it. Basically the microwave thinks someone's constantly mashing a button, which tells it something's shorted inside the keypad membrane or the circuit behind it.
moderate
HOOD-FILTER-CLEANINGThe process of removing accumulated grease, dust, and carbon deposits from the aluminum or stainless steel mesh filters located under a range hood or over-the-range microwave to maintain airflow and fire safety.
low
HOW-TO-DEODORIZERemoving persistent food odors, burnt smells, or moldy scents from the interior of a microwave using steam and natural deodorizers.
low
TROUBLESHOOTINGWhen your TV fails, something in the chain from power board to panel has broken down. This guide walks you through finding that weak link, whether it's burnt LEDs, bad capacitors, or a dead T-Con board, so you can figure out if it's actually worth fixing.
moderate
TV-TOOL-GUIDEA practical guide to the tools that actually help you figure out what's wrong with a TV before you start ordering parts. Covers the stuff that works: voltage testers, LED strip testers, universal remotes, and screen cleaning supplies.
low

Oven

View all 96 codes →
CodeMeaning
BAD-BURNERThe surface heating element is either completely dead, heating unevenly, or making intermittent contact because the internal coil snapped, the prongs corroded, or the socket it plugs into can't hold a solid connection anymore.
high
BAKE-ELEMENTThe lower heating element is the primary heat source for the bake setting, converting electricity into radiant heat through a resistive coil to cook food from the bottom up.
high
BAKING-ELEMENTThe baking element is the primary heating component located at the bottom of your oven. It is a resistive coil that converts electricity into heat to reach your set cooking temperature.
high
BEEPINGThe oven's control board detected something it doesn't like, whether it's an out-of-range sensor reading, a stuck button signal, or a safety limit that got tripped. Basically the board's yelling at you that something's off and it won't go back to normal until you deal with it.
moderate
BEEPINGThe oven's electronic control board (ERC) has detected a fault condition, such as a temperature sensor out of range, a stuck keypad button, or an internal board error, and is sounding an audible alarm for safety.
high
BEEPING-CONSTANTThe oven's control board detected something it doesn't like. Could be a stuck keypad button sending a continuous signal, a temperature sensor reading way out of its normal range, or an internal processor glitch. It's basically the oven's alarm system going off because it thinks something's off, even when nothing looks wrong from the outside.
moderate
BURNER-NOT-HEATINGThe radiant heating element located beneath the ceramic glass surface is failing to receive or convert electrical energy into heat, resulting in a cold burner.
high
BURNER-NOT-HEATINGThe heating circuit for a specific surface element is interrupted. This usually means the resistance wire inside the burner has snapped or the switch that sends power to it has failed internally.
moderate
BURNER-NOT-WORKINGThe radiant heating element under your ceramic glass, basically a coiled ribbon that glows red-hot when energized, has either broken internally or it's not getting power because the infinite switch that cycles it on and off has died.
moderate
CLEANINGRoutine maintenance to strip accumulated grease, dust, and carbon deposits off your kitchen ventilation filters. When those filters clog up, airflow drops, your fan strains against the restriction, and you've basically got a grease-soaked fire hazard sitting six inches above your burners.
low
CLEANINGRoutine maintenance to remove grease accumulation from baffle or mesh filters to ensure proper airflow and fire safety in a commercial kitchen environment.
low
CLEANINGGrease and carbon particles from cooking smoke get trapped in your baffle or mesh filters with every single cook cycle. Over time that buildup restricts airflow, increases fire risk, and starts dripping back onto your food and equipment. Regular cleaning keeps the exhaust system doing its actual job.
low
CLEANINGYour oven needs airflow to regulate heat properly. The vent is the exhaust pathway that lets steam and hot air escape during cooking. When grease and debris clog those slats, heat backs up, your thermostat gets confused, and the whole system has to work harder to maintain temperature.
low
F0S0F0S0 means the main control board lost its data connection to the user interface display. They're supposed to constantly handshake and exchange signals. When that stops, the system throws this fault and locks everything down until communication gets restored.
high
F1F1 means the electronic control system hit something it couldn't handle, usually a shorted input from the touchpad or an internal board fault that tripped the safety circuit. The oven's computer flagged a condition it couldn't recover from on its own.
high
F1F1 means the oven's electronic control board detected a primary fault, either in its own circuitry or from a stuck or shorted key on the touchpad membrane. The board can't tell the difference between 'someone pressed a button' and 'something's broken,' so it locks everything out and screams at you until you cut the power.
high
F1F1 means the Electronic Range Control caught a stuck key signal or an internal memory fault. The board polls every button constantly, and if any input stays active too long, it throws the code and kills power to the heating elements so the oven doesn't run unattended.
high
F1The control board detected a critical circuit fault, usually a shorted keypad membrane or a stuck output relay. Some boards also fire F1 when the oven temp sensor reads values so far off that the board thinks the oven is in a runaway heating condition and can't stop it.
high
F10The F10 error code indicates a runaway temperature condition, meaning the electronic control board has detected that the oven temperature is rising uncontrollably or is significantly higher than the set point.
critical
F11F11 means the Electronic Oven Control detected a continuous signal from one of your touch buttons for more than 30 seconds. Basically the board thinks someone's been holding a key down the whole time, so it flags it as a stuck or shorted key fault and locks everything out.
high
F2The F2 error code indicates an over-temperature condition, meaning the control board has detected that the oven temperature has exceeded a safe threshold, typically 590 to 650 degrees Fahrenheit, or the sensor circuit has failed in a way that mimics extreme heat.
critical
F3The control board is reading the sensor circuit as either open (no connection) or shorted (dead short), so it's throwing F3 and locking out. It literally can't tell if the oven's 200 degrees or 600 degrees, and that's a real problem.
high
F4F4 means your oven's RTD probe isn't sending back a reading the control board can use. The board expects to see right around 1080-1100 ohms at room temp. It sees zero, infinity, or something way outside that range, and it shuts everything down.
high
F7F7 means the board detected a stuck key condition. Basically the oven sees a button that's been held down for 30 to 60 seconds straight and figures something's wrong. So it shuts things down and throws the code rather than risk a runaway heating situation.
moderate
GAS-NOT-IGNITINGGas is reaching the burner or oven cavity but it's not getting lit. Either the spark isn't strong enough to jump the gap, the ports are clogged so gas can't reach the spark, or the oven's safety valve won't open because the igniter can't draw enough current to trip it.
high
GAS-OVEN-NO-LIGHTThe igniter's either too weak to pull enough current to open the gas safety valve, or it's cracked and not generating heat at all. Gas ovens need the igniter to physically heat up a bimetal strip inside the valve before gas can flow, so a lazy igniter means no gas, no flame.
high
GAS-SMELL-ERRA gas smell in a generic oven indicates that unburned natural gas or propane is escaping into the air. This usually stems from a delayed ignition process, a failing bake igniter, or a physical leak in the gas supply lines or fittings.
critical
HOW-RESETA control board reset clears the microprocessor's active memory and fault registers, forcing the oven's electronic control system to reinitialize all sensor inputs and relay outputs from scratch. This resolves software lockups, transient sensor faults, and corrupted state data that accumulates after power fluctuations or self-clean cycle interruptions.
moderate
HOW-SELF-CLEANPyrolytic self-cleaning is an oven operating mode where the control board locks the door latch motor, then drives the broil and bake elements simultaneously to sustain 800 to 900 degrees Fahrenheit for 2 to 4 hours, reducing food residue to powdery carbon ash that wipes away easily after cooling.
moderate
HOW-TOThe igniter's job is to get hot enough to open a safety valve that lets gas flow to the burner. When it weakens from age and heat cycling, it doesn't draw enough current to open that valve. No valve opening means no gas, which means your oven just sits there glowing weakly or not at all.
moderate
HOW-TO-CHANGE-IGNITERThe igniter is a glow-bar style element that draws current until it gets hot enough to signal the gas valve to open. Gas flows over the glowing element and ignites. Simple system, but the igniter weakens over years of heat cycles and eventually can't pull enough current to open the valve.
low
HOW-TO-CLEAN-GREASY-HOODThe process of removing heavy grease accumulation from ventilation filters and surfaces to maintain airflow and prevent fire hazards.
low
HOW-TO-CLEAN-HOODInstructions for removing heavy grease buildup from range hood filters and surfaces to maintain airflow and fire safety.
low
HOW-TO-CLEAN-HOOD-FILTERSProfessional maintenance procedure for removing grease accumulation from commercial kitchen ventilation filters to ensure safety and airflow.
low
HOW-TO-FIX-BURNERThe internal resistance wire inside the coil snapped, or the socket it plugs into can't deliver power anymore. This guide walks you through figuring out which one it is and fixing it without buying parts you don't need.
low
HOW-TO-FIX-BURNERSRestoring power and heat to non-functional coil or radiant electric cooktop elements.
low
HOW-TO-RESETA hard reset restores the oven's electronic control board to its factory state by clearing temporary memory and discharging residual electricity from the capacitors.
low
IGNITERThe igniter does two jobs: it glows hot enough to ignite gas AND draws enough current (3.2-3.6 amps) to pull the safety valve open. No current draw, no open valve, no gas. That's why a glowing igniter doesn't always mean a working igniter.
high
IGNITERThe igniter is a high-resistance heating element that glows white-hot to ignite gas and creates the electrical circuit required to keep the safety valve open during the bake cycle.
high
IGNITERThe igniter's a resistance element made of silicon carbide that glows white-hot when powered. It has to pull 3.2 to 3.6 amps to trigger the gas safety valve to open. Once resistance creeps up from aging, it can't pull enough current and the valve just stays shut, even if the igniter still glows.
high
IGNITERWhen you turn on your gas oven, the igniter draws electrical current until it gets hot enough, around 2500°F, to open the gas safety valve mechanically. No heat from the igniter means no gas flow, which is actually the safety system working exactly as designed.
high
IGNITERThe spark igniter, also called the electrode, is that ceramic-tipped probe that generates the high-voltage arc to light your gas. When it's working you'll see a crisp blue-white spark jump to the burner head. When it fails, the gas just won't catch no matter how many times it clicks.
moderate
IGNITERThe range igniter is a resistance heating device that glows white-hot to light the gas burner and provides the necessary electrical current to pull the gas safety valve open.
high
IGNITERThe igniter is a high-resistance heating element that glows to ignite gas and provides the electrical current necessary to hold the gas safety valve open.
high
IGNITERThe igniter heats up to draw enough current to physically pull open the gas safety valve. No heat, no current draw, no gas flowing. That's why a dim igniter means no flame even when the element looks like it's doing something.
high
IGNITERThe spark module, ignition switches, and ceramic electrodes all work together to create a high-voltage arc that ignites your gas. When any one of those pieces fails, or when moisture or grease blocks the arc path, your burner goes completely silent.
moderate
IGNITERWhen the control calls for heat, it sends 120V to the igniter. The igniter heats up until it's drawing enough current, around 3.2 to 3.6 amps, to open the gas safety valve. Gas hits the hot element and lights. If the igniter's resistance has gone up from wear, it can't pull enough amps to crack that valve open, even though it still glows.
high
IGNITER-SWITCHThe igniter switch is a rotary electrical contact sitting behind your burner knob that sends a 120V signal to the spark module when turned to the 'Lite' position.
moderate
IGNITION-FAILUREIgnition failure happens when the electrical spark can't bridge the gap to the burner head, or when something's blocking the gas from reaching that spark. The result is a burner that clicks forever without catching, or doesn't click at all.
high
LOCThe control board has disabled the entire keypad. It won't accept any input until you run the unlock sequence. Think of it like your phone's screen lock, except the button to unlock it is hidden in the fine print of a manual most people tossed out the day they set the oven up.
low
LOW-FLAME-OR-NO-IGNITIONGas can't flow properly or the spark isn't reaching the gas. Usually it's a blocked burner port, a cracked igniter electrode, or the burner cap sitting slightly off-center. The stove's basically refusing to dump unlit gas into your kitchen. That's actually the safe behavior. It's doing its job.
high
MODEL-LOOKUPA guide to locating the model number tag on a range or oven to access the correct parts diagrams and exploded views.
low
NO-FLAME-GASThe oven's control board sends power to the igniter, which is supposed to heat up and open the gas safety valve. When the igniter's resistance drifts too high, it can't draw enough amps to trigger that valve. No valve opening means no gas flow, and no gas flow means no flame, even if the igniter looks like it's working.
high
NO-SPARK-DIAGWhen a no-spark condition happens, the ignition circuit isn't completing. The spark module takes 120V and steps it up to thousands of volts to jump the gap at the electrode tip. If anything breaks in that chain, whether it's the electrode, the ceramic insulator, the wiring, or the module itself, you get nothing.
high
NOT-CLICKINGThe ignition system has lost electrical continuity or power somewhere in the circuit. That clicking sound you're used to? It's high-voltage electricity physically jumping a gap at the electrode. If it's silent, the circuit's either blocked by a failed component, moisture, or the power supply's been cut.
moderate
NOT-HEATINGThe oven's getting power and the display works fine, but the actual heating circuit isn't completing. Something between the control board and the heating component broke the loop. It's either the element itself, the gas igniter, a thermal fuse that sacrificed itself to protect something more expensive, or the temperature sensor feeding bad data to the board.
high
NOT-HEATINGYour oven's ignition sequence is failing. The igniter's supposed to heat up enough to open the gas safety valve, but if it's too weak to draw enough amperage, that valve stays shut. No gas means no flame. The oven thinks it's working fine, your food disagrees.
high
NOT-HEATINGThe oven's getting the signal to heat up but something in the electrical circuit is broken. Either the heating element itself burned through, a safety fuse blew to protect the unit, or the control board stopped sending power to the elements. The electronics still work fine, which is why the display looks completely normal.
high
NOT-HEATINGLo que está pasando adentro es que el circuito de 240 voltios se interrumpió en algún punto. La corriente entra por el breaker, pasa por el interruptor infinito, llega al receptáculo del quemador, y viaja por el elemento. Cuando uno de esos puntos falla, el calor no llega.
high
NOT-HEATINGThe oven is failing to reach the programmed temperature, often stalling out 100 degrees low or taking significantly longer than the standard 10 to 15 minute preheat window.
high
NOT-HEATINGThe cooktop's getting power, but one or more burners can't complete the electrical circuit to actually generate heat. Either the element has a break in its internal coil, or the switch controlling it has failed and isn't sending juice to the element anymore.
moderate
NOT-HEATINGThe oven burner assembly is the component where gas and air mix to create the flame for cooking. Replacement is needed when the metal degrades, ports clog, or the ignition source fails to light the gas safely.
high
NOT-HEATINGThe oven's control panel is working fine and sending the right commands, but something in the physical heating system is broken. Either the bake element can't convert electricity to heat, or the igniter can't get hot enough to open the gas valve and spark a flame.
high
NOT-HEATINGThe oven is failing to energize the heating elements or the control system has lost power, preventing the appliance from reaching the set temperature.
high
NOT-HEATINGThe oven's getting power for the display and lights but the heating elements, bake or broil or both, aren't generating heat. Either the element itself is dead, the power path to it is broken somewhere, or the control board relay that fires it has failed internally.
high
NOT-HEATINGThe range is either failing to receive the required 240V power from the home outlet or has an internal break in the electrical circuit, such as a burnt element or a blown safety fuse.
moderate
NOT-HEATING-BURNERThe electrical circuit for a specific cooking zone is interrupted. This means power is either not leaving the control switch, is being lost at a damaged socket, or the heating element itself has a physical break in its internal filament.
moderate
NOT-HEATING-ENOUGHThe oven starts the heating cycle but can't maintain the temperature you set, or it stalls out before reaching it. Usually it's because the igniter's getting too weak to hold the gas valve open consistently, or the temperature sensor's sending the wrong readings back to the control board.
moderate
NOT-HEATING-ENOUGHThe oven's firing up fine, it's just not finishing the job. Something's interrupting the heat cycle before it hits your target temp, usually stalling out 50 to 100 degrees short. Could be a dying component, a sensor lying to the board, or heat literally leaking out through a bad door seal.
moderate
NOT-LIGHTINGThe burner's failing to ignite because the spark ignition system isn't generating a spark, the spark is getting misdirected, or gas flow is physically blocked at the burner head.
moderate
NOT-LIGHTINGThe burner is failing to ignite because the spark is not reaching the gas flow, the gas flow is blocked, or the ignition system has an electrical fault.
high
NOT-PREHEATINGYour oven can't build heat fast enough to hit the temperature you set. Something in the heating circuit, the element, igniter, or the sensor that tells the board what temp it's at, has partially or fully failed, so the oven either heats way too slowly or just gives up partway through the preheat cycle.
moderate
NOT-TURNING-ONThe stove isn't getting usable power, either because it's not reaching the unit at all, or because an internal safety component cut the circuit on purpose. When the thermal fuse blows or a breaker trips, the whole thing shuts down to prevent bigger electrical damage or a fire.
high
NOT-WORKINGOne or more cooking zones aren't producing heat. On electric stoves, the circuit from the control switch to the heating element is broken somewhere. On gas stoves, either the gas isn't reaching the burner head or the spark igniter can't fire.
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NOT-WORKINGThe appliance has lost partial or total power, resulting in the cooktop burners or the oven cavity failing to heat despite being turned on.
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NOT-WORKINGThe cooktop isn't getting power, or the heating elements can't complete an electrical circuit to generate heat. Usually it's one failed part in that chain, not the whole stove giving up at once.
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OVEN-BEEPINGYour oven's control board detected something outside its normal operating range, whether that's a temperature sensor reading that doesn't make sense, a button registering as permanently pressed, or an internal communication failure. It's basically the oven saying it can't safely operate and it won't do it quietly.
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OVEN-IGNITER-REPLACEThe hot surface igniter heats up to roughly 2500°F, and that heat draws enough amperage to signal the gas safety valve to open. When it's dead or too weak to pull enough amps, the valve stays shut and your oven just sits there cold no matter what temperature you set.
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OVEN-NOT-HEATINGWhen an oven won't heat, something in the heating circuit has failed. That's usually a cracked bake element, a weak gas igniter, or a blown thermal fuse that cut power to the heating components as a safety measure.
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OVEN-NOT-HEATINGYour oven can't establish or hold a flame at the bake burner. The gas valve's safety solenoid won't open unless the igniter draws enough current, usually around 3.2 to 3.6 amps. When that electrical threshold isn't met, no gas flows, no flame starts, and you're left with a cold oven.
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PFPF stands for Power Failure. It means the electronic control board lost power and just rebooted. It's a status notification, not a hardware fault. The board's basically saying it lost power at some point and needs you to acknowledge it before it'll let you cook again.
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SLOW-HEATYour oven's burner isn't igniting fast enough, or your temp sensor is feeding bad data to the control board, so the whole system runs behind. A properly working gas oven should reach 350°F in 12-15 minutes. If yours is taking twice that, something in the ignition or sensing circuit isn't doing its job.
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SLOW-HEATBasically the igniter's job is to get hot enough to draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps through the gas safety valve circuit. When it can't hit that threshold anymore, the valve either stays shut or barely opens. The igniter glows, but it's not hot enough to actually do its job anymore.
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SLOW-HEATBasically, your oven's taking way longer than the normal 10-15 minutes to hit your target temp. Something inside isn't generating enough heat, either a partial element failure, a dying igniter that can't pull enough current to pop the gas valve open, or a sensor that's lying to the control board.
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SMELL-OF-GASYour gas utility adds a chemical called mercaptan specifically so you can smell leaks. When that rotten egg odor hits, unburned gas is escaping somewhere before it gets ignited. Could be the supply line, a valve, or just a burner port that's backed up with baked-on crud blocking proper combustion.
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SPARKING-PROBLEMThe ignition system is stuck in a continuous sparking loop or failing to generate a spark due to a grounded switch, moisture, or a faulty spark module.
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STOVE-WORKS-NO-OVENThe appliance is receiving partial power or has a specific component failure in the oven circuit, while the independent stove top circuits remain functional.
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SYMPTOMOven fails to reach set temperature or produces no heat at all
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TROUBLESHOOTINGWhen a burner won't heat, the 240-volt circuit feeding that element is broken somewhere. That break could be inside the coil itself, in the socket it plugs into, the infinite switch controlling it, or the wiring between them. The stove's control board is almost never the culprit here.
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TROUBLESHOOTINGThis is a catch-all diagnostic walkthrough for gas stoves. We're covering surface burner ignition, oven heating problems, and weird flame behavior. Basically if your gas stove is acting up and you don't know where to start, this is where you start.
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TROUBLESHOOTINGGeneral diagnostic state for commercial gas cooking equipment. The machine's pilot, thermocouple, burner ports, and thermostat are all under scrutiny. Something in that chain is breaking down and it's causing the main burner to behave badly.
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UNEVEN-FLAMEAn uneven flame means gas flow is being blocked or the air-to-gas mixture is off. Usually it's debris packed into the burner ports, or worn burner caps that aren't sitting flat anymore and are throwing the whole burn pattern sideways.
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VENT-CLEANINGGrease from cooking vaporizes and then condenses inside the filter mesh, layering up over time. Eventually those layers get thick enough to block airflow and your hood becomes basically useless. You're just moving greasy air around instead of actually exhausting it out of your kitchen.
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VENT-CLEANINGYour vent hood filter is basically a mesh trap that catches grease and smoke particles before they hit your fan motor or ductwork. Over time that grease polymerizes, meaning it hardens into a sticky varnish-like coating that regular wiping won't touch. The hot soak method breaks that bond chemically instead of relying on scrubbing.
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VENT-CLEANINGBasically, this is about cleaning combustible grease off your range hood's filters and housing before it becomes a fire hazard or kills your fan motor. Grease from cooking smoke coats everything and over time it polymerizes into a sticky, flammable layer that blocks airflow and overworks the motor.
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YELLOW-FLAMEYellow flame means the gas isn't mixing with enough oxygen before it burns. That incomplete combustion produces carbon monoxide and soot instead of the clean, hot burn you want. The burner tube is basically starved for air, and the fuel's igniting before it's properly mixed.
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Refrigerator

View all 79 codes →
CodeMeaning
CLEANINGRoutine preventative care to ensure cooling efficiency, prevent ice buildup, and extend compressor life.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is a flexible, magnetic rubber strip attached to the outer edge of the refrigerator or freezer door that creates an airtight seal to maintain internal temperatures.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is a flexible magnetic strip that creates an airtight seal between the fridge door and the cabinet. When it fails, cold air leaks out and warm humid air gets in, forcing the compressor to run nonstop trying to catch up.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket's a flexible magnetic strip that creates an airtight seal between the refrigerator door and the cabinet. When it fails, warm humid air gets in, cold air leaks out, and your compressor runs constantly trying to compensate. Pretty simple part, but it does a ton of heavy lifting every single day.
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DOOR-GASKETThe gasket is basically a magnetic rubber strip that wraps around your freezer door and suctions it shut against the cabinet frame. When it breaks down, warm humid air gets in, freezes on contact with cold surfaces, and your compressor runs nonstop trying to compensate for the constant heat load.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is a flexible, magnetic rubber strip attached to the outer edge of your refrigerator or freezer door. When the door closes, it compresses against the cabinet frame and creates an airtight seal that keeps cold air in and warm, humid air out. When that compression fails, even by a tiny amount, your whole cooling system starts working overtime.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is the flexible, magnetic vinyl strip that runs around the edge of your fridge or freezer door. When the door closes, magnets embedded in the gasket pull the vinyl tight against the metal cabinet frame, trapping cold air in and keeping warm, humid air out.
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DOOR-GASKETThe gasket is the flexible magnetic rubber strip around your door edge that creates an airtight seal when the door closes. When it's working right, you get a slight suction when you open the door. When it's not, warm humid air sneaks in constantly and your compressor can't keep up.
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DOOR-GASKETThe gasket is the flexible magnetic rubber seal attached to the lid that creates an airtight barrier to keep cold air in and moisture out.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is a flexible magnetic strip wrapped in vinyl or rubber that creates an airtight seal between the fridge cabinet and the door. When it's working right, you almost have to tug to get the door open. When it's not, cold air leaks out constantly and your compressor never gets a break.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is the flexible magnetic strip that creates an airtight seal between the appliance door and the cabinet, preventing cold air from escaping and warm air from entering.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is the flexible magnetic strip that seals the cold air inside the refrigerator and keeps warm, humid room air out.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is the flexible magnetic strip attached to the outer edge of the refrigerator or freezer door that creates an airtight seal to keep cold air trapped inside.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is a flexible, magnetic vinyl strip that creates an airtight seal between the refrigerator door and the cabinet. Its job is to keep cold air inside while preventing warm, moist room air from entering the cooling compartments.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is a flexible magnetic strip that creates an airtight seal between the freezer lid and the main cabinet to maintain freezing temperatures.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door seal, or gasket, is a magnetic strip inside a vinyl sleeve that runs around the entire perimeter of the freezer lid. When you close the lid, that magnet pulls the vinyl tight against the cabinet to create a hermetic seal and stop warm air from getting in.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is a flexible magnetic strip encased in vinyl that creates an airtight seal between the door and the refrigerator cabinet to maintain internal temperatures.
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DOOR-GASKETThe door gasket is a flexible, magnetic rubber strip that creates an airtight seal between the freezer cabinet and the door. When it's working right, it holds sub-zero temps inside. When it fails, warm air keeps sneaking in.
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DOOR-NOT-SEALINGThe door gasket (seal) has lost its airtight integrity, allowing warm, humid air to enter the cabinet and cold air to escape.
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FILTER-GUIDEA buying guide for refrigerator water filters covering how to spot properly certified filters, why OEM usually beats generic, and what the NSF certification numbers actually mean for your family's water quality.
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FILTER-GUIDEYour fridge filter is basically a compressed carbon block. Water flows through it, the carbon traps chlorine, lead, sediment, and other contaminants. Over time the carbon saturates and flow slows down. This guide breaks down which filters are worth buying, how to pick the right one for your fridge, and when to know it's time to swap.
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FILTER-GUIDEYour fridge pumps water through a carbon block before it hits your dispenser or ice maker. That carbon's supposed to grab chlorine, lead, cysts, and whatever your municipal water's carrying. When the filter's expired or just poorly made, that carbon's either too saturated to work anymore or was never actually certified to catch the dangerous stuff in the first place.
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FREEZER-WORKS-FRIDGE-NOTBasically, the airflow circulation system broke down somewhere. Most fridges use a single evaporator coil sitting in the freezer. When something mechanical fails or ice blocks that duct, cold air stops moving. The freezer stays cold because that's where the coils live, but nothing gets pushed through to the fridge side.
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FROST-BUILDUPWhen moisture from warm air or food gets into the cold compartment and the defrost system isn't burning it off every 8-12 hours like it's supposed to, that moisture freezes onto the evaporator coils. Stack enough of those missed cycles together and you've got a serious frost problem.
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FROST-GUIDEFrost buildup means your fridge's automatic defrost system isn't keeping up with the ice forming on the evaporator coils, or warm moist air is leaking in through a bad seal and freezing wherever it touches cold metal or plastic.
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GASKET-FAILUREA refrigerator gasket is the flexible vinyl strip that seals the door shut. When it fails, it allows warm air and moisture into the unit, causing frost, spoiled food, and high energy bills.
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GASKET-FAILUREThe gasket is that flexible rubber strip running around the perimeter of your refrigerator door. It's got a magnetic strip embedded in it that pulls the rubber tight against the cabinet frame. When it hardens, warps, or tears, cold air leaks out and warm, humid air gets in and turns into frost.
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HOW-CLEAN-COILSCondenser coils are the network of copper or aluminum tubes at the bottom or rear of your refrigerator where refrigerant releases heat to the surrounding air. When coated in dust, the coils cannot dissipate heat efficiently, causing the compressor to run longer cycles, overheat, and eventually fail prematurely. This guide walks you through locating, accessing, and cleaning them properly.
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HOW-RESETA refrigerator reset clears the control board's memory and forces all sensors, relays, and the compressor control circuit to reinitialize from scratch. It's basically rebooting a computer when the software gets stuck in a bad state, except the compressor pressure side adds a time requirement you can't skip.
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HOW-TOFreezer door gasket is not sealing properly, allowing warm air to enter and causing frost buildup or temperature issues
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HOW-TO-CHECK-FAILUREFiguring out if your fridge is actually dying or just needs basic maintenance. Most refrigerators give you warning signs weeks or months before they quit completely. The trick is knowing which signs mean 'clean your coils' versus which ones mean 'start shopping for a replacement.'
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HOW-TO-CHECK-RUNNINGVerifying the operational status of the compressor, fans, and power supply to ensure the appliance is cooling correctly.
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HOW-TO-DEFROSTExcessive frost on the interior walls and evaporator coils blocks airflow and makes the compressor work way harder than it should. Removing that ice restores the unit's cooling efficiency and basically gives the whole system a fresh start.
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HOW-TO-DEFROSTIce accumulates on the evaporator plate when warm humid air gets inside and freezes on contact. Enough of it and airflow gets blocked completely, so the compressor runs constantly but the fridge never actually gets cold.
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HOW-TO-DEFROSTWhen your freezer's auto-defrost fails or you've got a manual-defrost unit, ice builds up on the evaporator coils and walls until airflow is completely blocked. This guide walks you through safely melting that ice fast without damaging the coils or plastic liner.
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HOW-TO-DEFROSTIce builds up on the evaporator coils because every time you open the door, warm humid air sneaks in and freezes on contact. That frost layer acts like insulation, blocks airflow, and makes the unit work way harder than it should just to stay cold.
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HOW-TO-DEFROSTThe process of manually removing accumulated ice from the evaporator plate and freezer compartment to maintain cooling efficiency.
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HOW-TO-DEFROSTThe recommended schedule and technique for clearing ice buildup from manual-defrost freezer compartments. It's routine maintenance that keeps cooling coils working efficiently and prevents compressor strain from ice-blocked airflow.
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HOW-TO-DEFROSTA manual maintenance procedure to remove heavy ice accumulation from a freezer compartment while using professional containment methods to prevent water damage to floors.
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HOW-TO-DEFROSTThe defrost button is a manual trigger that cuts the cooling cycle and lets the evaporator coils warm up enough to melt off the frost that's accumulated on them. Some older models actually fire a small heating element when you press it. Either way, you're just giving the coils a chance to shed the ice.
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HOW-TO-DEFROSTFrost builds up on the evaporator plate inside the freezer compartment when moisture from the air freezes on contact with the cold surface. Once that layer gets thick enough, it blocks airflow and insulates the plate, killing the fridge's ability to cool properly.
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HOW-TO-DEFROSTThe process of removing excessive frost buildup from the freezer compartment to restore proper airflow and cooling efficiency.
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HOW-TO-DIAGNOSE-FRIDGEA step-by-step checkup that separates 'needs a $20 part' from 'call the appliance store.' You're checking power, temperature, door seals, sounds, and coils in that order to figure out if you've got a home fix or a real repair on your hands.
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HOW-TO-FIX-COOLINGYour mini fridge's cooling system is losing the battle against heat. Either ice is blocking the evaporator, dust is choking the condenser coils, or warm air's sneaking in through a bad door seal. The refrigerant's probably still there. It just can't dump heat fast enough to keep things cold.
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HOW-TO-FIX-FREEZER-SEALThe rubber gasket around your freezer door has a magnetic strip inside that holds it tight against the metal frame. When that seal breaks down, warm moist air sneaks in constantly. Your freezer turns that moisture into frost, your compressor works overtime to compensate, and everything goes sideways from there.
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HOW-TO-FIX-GASKETRestoring the airtight magnetic seal on a freezer door to prevent frost buildup, energy waste, and compressor strain.
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HOW-TO-RESETA manual power cycle or control board reboot used to clear error codes, restore cooling after a power surge, or sync the internal computer with the hardware.
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HOW-TO-RESETWhen you restart a fridge, you're basically clearing the brain. The control board loses its memory of any temporary fault codes or frozen sensor readings, and when it boots back up it re-checks everything from scratch. Think of it like rebooting your router when the internet's acting up.
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HOW-TO-RESETA system reset reboots the refrigerator's main control board, clearing temporary software glitches, stuck defrost cycles, or communication errors between the display panel and the main board that built up during a power event or after a component swap.
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HOW-TO-RESET-COMPRESSORResetting a refrigerator compressor involves power-cycling the unit to allow internal pressures to equalize and the electronic control board to reboot its cooling logic.
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LIGHT-ON-NO-COLDThe lighting circuit runs separately from the cooling components. So when your light's on but there's no cold, something in the compressor circuit, the evaporator fan, or the sealed refrigerant system has failed. Power's getting in the door, it's just not reaching the right parts.
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MAINTENANCERoutine upkeep to prevent frost buildup that strains the compressor, maintain door seal integrity so warm air stays out, and keep condenser coils clear so the unit can actually shed heat properly.
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NOT-COOLINGThe fridge can't maintain safe temps basically because heat's not getting out or cold air's not moving around properly. Either the sealed refrigerant system is struggling, the fans that move air aren't spinning, or ice has built up and choked off airflow completely.
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NOT-COOLINGThe refrigeration system's producing cold just fine in the freezer, but that cold air isn't making it into the fresh food compartment. Something's either blocking the airflow, icing up the passage, or the fan that moves the air has quit.
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NOT-COOLINGThe refrigerator is no longer removing heat from the cabinet. This indicates a failure in the heat exchange loop, typically caused by blocked airflow, a failed fan, or a compressor that cannot start.
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NOT-COOLINGYour fridge's job is to move heat from inside the cabinet to outside it. When this fails, hot air gets trapped because the condenser can't dump it, or a stuck defrost heater is actively adding heat. Either way, the inside of your fridge stops being cold.
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NOT-COOLINGThe refrigerator is failing to maintain the set temperature in one or both compartments. This indicates a failure in heat exchange, air circulation, or the refrigeration cycle itself.
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NOT-COOLINGPower's getting to the unit and the light probably works fine, but the compressor either can't start or the sealed refrigerant system can't move heat out of the cabinet. It's either an electrical problem stopping the compressor from kicking on, or the compressor itself is mechanically done.
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NOT-COOLINGYour fridge can't hold a safe food storage temperature of 37 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Something in the cooling or airflow system has broken down, and the refrigerant isn't moving heat out of the cabinet the way it's supposed to.
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NOT-COOLINGThe refrigerator is failing to maintain the set temperature in one or both compartments, typically due to restricted airflow, heat exchange issues, or a component failure in the sealed or defrost systems.
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NOT-COOLINGBoth the freezer and fridge sections can't hold safe temps, which means refrigerant isn't flowing or heat isn't escaping the cabinet. Could be mechanical, a blocked coil, or something electrical that's stopping the compressor from starting at all.
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NOT-COOLINGBoth compartments are failing to reach safe temps because the refrigeration cycle itself has broken down, usually on the heat rejection side, meaning the system can't dump the heat it's pulling out of your food fast enough to keep up.
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NOT-COOLING-FREEZERYour cooling system's still running, but something's blocking or breaking the cold air delivery specifically to the freezer compartment. The compressor's making cold just fine, but either the fan can't spread it around or a wall of ice is blocking the vents. The fridge gets just enough to stay around 38 degrees, but the freezer can't hit 0.
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NOT-COOLING-FRIDGEThe cooling system's functional because the freezer's hitting temp, but cold air isn't being transferred into the fresh food compartment. There's one cooling loop, one set of coils, and if something blocks or interrupts the air path between those two sections, you get exactly this.
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NOT-FREEZINGThe unit's getting power and the mechanical parts are trying to cool, but it can't hit or hold the sub-zero temps needed to actually freeze food. Something's blocking the heat exchange cycle, either on the heat-out side or the cold-air-distribution side.
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NOT-MAKING-ICEThe ice maker's stopped cycling. That means it's either not getting water, the tray isn't cold enough to trigger the harvest thermostat to close, or the motor that actually ejects the cubes has seized up or stripped out.
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NOT-RUNNINGThe condenser fan motor at the bottom rear of your fridge has stopped turning. Without it spinning, heat can't escape from the refrigerant loop, your compressor overheats, and the whole cooling system starts falling apart. It's basically trying to cool your food with nowhere to dump the heat it's generating.
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NOT-RUNNINGThe refrigerator motor (compressor) is not receiving power, or is physically unable to start due to an electrical failure in the start components or the motor itself.
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NOT-RUNNINGThe compressor, evaporator fan, and condenser fan have all stopped because the electrical path feeding them is broken somewhere. Either power isn't reaching the machine at all, or the control board that tells those parts to run has stopped sending the signal.
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NOT-SPINNINGYour fridge's air circulation has stopped. Either the evaporator fan inside the freezer compartment isn't moving cold air into the fridge section, or the condenser fan near the compressor isn't cooling the system down. Either way, cold air isn't going where it needs to go and your temps are climbing.
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NOT-SPINNINGYour fridge has two fans running almost constantly. The evaporator fan circulates cold air from the freezer coils through the rest of the cabinet. The condenser fan pulls heat away from the compressor. When either one stops, the whole system falls apart because airflow is basically how a refrigerator moves cold from point A to point B.
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REPLACE-FILTERBasically your filter's either physically clogged with sediment or the carbon inside has hit its limit for removing chlorine and contaminants. Either way, water supply to the ice maker is restricted or compromised, and the fridge might be flagging it's time to swap it out.
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SEAL-LEAKThe door gasket is a magnetic vinyl strip running the full perimeter of your fridge door. When it's working, it creates an airtight seal every single time the door closes. When it fails, warm humid air sneaks in constantly and your compressor has to work overtime just to keep up.
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SY EFThe main control board lost communication with the evaporator fan motor in the freezer. It's sending power but getting no RPM feedback signal back, which means either the fan isn't spinning or the signal wire isn't making a good connection.
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SYMPTOMThe fresh food section has lost its cold air supply while the freezer stays cold. The sealed cooling system's intact. Something in the airflow path between the two compartments has failed or is blocked, so cold air can't get from one side to the other.
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TROUBLESHOOTINGA comprehensive guide to identifying and resolving the most frequent refrigerator failures seen in the field.
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TROUBLESHOOTINGYour fridge has a handful of systems that all depend on each other: the compressor, two fans, a defrost cycle, and a drain. When one fails, the symptoms often point somewhere else entirely. This guide helps you trace the actual root cause instead of just guessing and throwing parts at it.
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TROUBLESHOOTINGComprehensive diagnostic guide for identifying and fixing common wine cooler failures, including cooling issues, noise, and electrical faults.
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WARRANTY-GUIDEA buying guide to help seniors find the right home warranty plan, covering what to look for in the contract, which companies actually pay claims without a fight, how to avoid high-pressure sales tactics that specifically target older homeowners, and how to make this work on a fixed income without getting buried by fine print.
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Vacuum

View all 1 codes →
CodeMeaning
LOSS-OF-SUCTIONBasically your vacuum is a sealed airflow system. When something breaks that seal or blocks the path, pressure drops and dirt doesn't lift. The motor's still spinning, but it's just moving air in circles instead of pulling it through. You'll usually hear it running harder than normal.
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Washer

View all 48 codes →
CodeMeaning
5dThe 5d code (which often looks like 'Sd') stands for 'Suds Detection'. It means the control board has detected an overabundance of soap bubbles that are creating too much air pressure or drag, preventing the drum from spinning properly.
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5dThe 5d error code, often appearing as Sd on many digital displays, indicates that the control board has detected an excessive amount of soap suds in the drum. This condition prevents the washer from draining or spinning correctly because the foam interferes with the pressure sensor and the drain pump.
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BANGING-ON-SPINThe tub's literally hitting the side of the cabinet because it's off-center. Either the laundry shifted and threw the balance off, or the suspension system that's supposed to keep the tub stable while it spins has gotten too weak to do its job anymore.
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BEST-CLEANERA buying guide for top-loader washing machine cleaners, covering why top loaders need a different approach than front loaders due to higher water volume and the hard-to-reach gap between the two tubs where soap scum and mold love to hide.
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CLEANA maintenance procedure using liquid chlorine bleach to sanitize the internal drum, outer tub, and rubber components to eliminate mold and bacteria.
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CLEAN-WITH-BLEACHA preventative maintenance procedure using liquid chlorine bleach to sanitize the internal drum, outer tub, and rubber gasket to eliminate mold and odors.
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CLEANINGA comprehensive deep-cleaning procedure using specialized chemical agents to remove biofilm, detergent residue (scrud), and mineral scale from the internal components of a clothes washer.
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CLEANINGYou're clearing out the physical debris filter inside the pump housing and flushing the household drain plumbing. The filter catches lint, hair, and small objects before they reach the pump. The standpipe flush breaks down the soap scum biofilm that coats the inside of your drain hose and wall pipe over time.
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CLEANINGBasically, you're running an empty hot cycle with bleach to kill the mold, mildew, and detergent gunk that builds up on drum walls, pump housing, and rubber seals over time. It's not a machine error. It's regular maintenance, like changing your car's oil before the engine starts knocking.
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DCDC stands for Distribute Clothes, or sometimes Door Closed depending on the machine. It fires when the vibration sensor detects the drum wobbling too hard during spin. The washer stops itself before the unbalanced spinning can damage the motor, suspension, or cabinet walls. It's a safety response, not a sign the machine is broken.
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DEEP-CLEANINGA deep clean is a preventative maintenance process that removes bacterial biofilm from the washer and flammable lint from the dryer to ensure safety and performance.
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DRAIN-FAILUREThe control board sends a signal to the drain pump motor, which spins an impeller to push water out through the hose. When something blocks that flow, or the motor burns out, the water just sits there. The board sees it can't complete the drain cycle and either stops the machine or throws a code.
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DRAIN-PUMPThe drain pump is the motorized component that forces water out of the wash tub and through the drain hose during the drain and spin cycles. When it fails, water stays put.
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DRAIN-PUMPThe drain pump is the mechanical heart of the drainage system. It uses an electric motor and an impeller to push wastewater out of the tub and through the drain hose into your home plumbing.
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DRAIN-PUMPThe drain pump is the motorized component responsible for forcing water out of the wash tub and through the drain hose during the drain and spin cycles.
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E3The E3 error code typically indicates a 'Drain Timeout' or an 'Out of Balance' condition. The washer's control board has detected that the water isn't draining fast enough or the tub's vibrating too violently to safely reach spin speeds.
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F02F02 means the drain cycle ran too long without the water level actually dropping. The pressure switch reports to the control board when the tub's empty, and if that signal never comes within the time limit, the board throws F02 and shuts everything down.
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F21F21 means Long Drain. The control board kicked off a drain cycle, set an eight-minute timer, and the water level sensor never confirmed the tub was empty in time. So it gave up and threw the code. Your machine literally timed out waiting for the water to leave.
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F5The F5 error code indicates a Lid Lock or Door Latch failure. The control board has attempted to lock or unlock the lid but failed to receive the proper confirmation signal from the switch.
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GENERIC-WASH-DRAINYour washer's basically stopped pushing water out through the drain hose. Something's blocking the flow, the pump motor's died, or the machine thinks the lid's open and won't even try. Water's just sitting there with nowhere to go.
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GRINDING-NOISEYour washer's making that noise because metal or hard plastic parts are physically rubbing against each other under load. Something's lost its lubrication, broken loose, or just worn down to the point where it can't move cleanly anymore. It's not electrical or software. Purely mechanical.
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GRINDING-SPINA mechanical grinding noise during spin indicates that the drive system is struggling with friction. This is typically caused by metal bearings that have lost their lubrication or plastic drive gears that have stripped their teeth.
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HOW-CLEANOver time, detergent residue, fabric softener, hard water minerals, and organic matter from clothes build up inside your washer's drum, hoses, door seal, and dispenser. That buildup traps moisture and becomes a breeding ground for mold and bacteria, which is what causes that musty smell everyone notices eventually.
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HOW-RESETA washer reset clears the control board's memory, unlocks a stuck cycle, and wipes active error codes. Basically you're forcing the machine's brain to forget whatever confused state it locked itself into and start fresh from zero.
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HOW-TO-BALANCEThe washer's adjustable legs aren't making equal contact with the floor, so the chassis rocks when the drum spins. The spinning tub creates centrifugal force that amplifies any wobble, turning a tiny tilt into a machine that sounds like it's trying to escape the laundry room at 1200 RPM.
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HOW-TO-BLEACHThe process of safely adding liquid chlorine bleach to a laundry cycle to whiten fabrics or disinfect the appliance tub.
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HOW-TO-BLEACH-TOP-LOADERInstructions for safely adding liquid chlorine bleach to a top-loading washing machine to whiten clothes and sanitize the drum.
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HOW-TO-CLEAN-AGITATORA hands-on cleaning routine for top-load washers with a central agitator column. The goal is to strip out accumulated biofilm, mineral deposits, and detergent residue that collects inside the tub, under the agitator, and in the fabric softener dispenser between normal washes.
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HOW-TO-CLEAN-WASHERA maintenance procedure to remove biofilm, detergent buildup, and odors from a washing machine using common household ingredients instead of commercial cleaners.
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HUMMING-NOISEYour washer's getting power to a motor or valve solenoid, but something's physically blocking it from doing its job. The electrical energy can't go anywhere useful, so it converts to heat and noise instead. That hum is basically the part saying I'm trying but I can't move.
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KNOCKING-SPINThe inner wash tub is spinning at 800-1200 RPM but it's not staying centered anymore. The rods or shocks that are supposed to hold it in place have worn out, so instead of spinning in a controlled circle, it's wobbling and physically smacking into the outer cabinet frame on every rotation.
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LEAK-BOTTOMA puddle forming underneath a washing machine usually indicates a failure in the internal plumbing, a worn-out tub seal, or a cracked drain pump housing that allows water to escape during the fill, wash, or drain cycles.
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LEAKINGWater's escaping through the front door area. That usually means the rubber gasket has failed, something's blocking the seal from seating properly, or the door's sagging off its hinges enough that it's not centering on the boot anymore.
high
LEAKING-DRAINWater's escaping at the point where your washer dumps its dirty water into the home's drain system. Could be the hose physically failing, a loose pump connection, or your plumbing just can't keep up with how fast the pump's pushing water out.
high
NO-FILL-GENERICBasically your washer's board sends voltage to the inlet valve solenoid to pull open a rubber diaphragm and let water flow in. When something in that chain breaks, whether it's the valve itself, the wiring, or the sensor that monitors water level, the tub just sits there empty and the board has no idea why.
high
NOT-DRAININGThe washer has detected that water is remaining in the tub after the drain portion of the cycle. This is typically caused by a physical blockage in the pump, a kinked exit hose, or a total mechanical failure of the drain pump motor.
high
NOT-DRAINING-SPINNINGYour washer's control board won't start the spin cycle until the pressure switch confirms the tub is empty. If water's still sitting in there, the board basically says 'not yet' and spin just doesn't happen. It's a flood-prevention feature, not usually a mechanical failure.
moderate
NOT-SPINNINGThe washer filled and agitated just fine but can't transition into the high-speed rotation needed to pull water out of your clothes. It's usually a safety sensor cutting things off or a mechanical failure somewhere in the drive train.
high
OEOE stands for Output Error or Overboard Error. The control board runs the drain pump, watches the pressure sensor, and if the water level hasn't dropped after the allotted drain window, it throws OE and stops the cycle to keep from making a mess.
high
OFF-BALANCEThe inner tub isn't centered or stabilized when it starts spinning. So it swings around and smacks the outer cabinet. That's the banging you're hearing. At high RPMs, even a tiny wobble turns into a full-on collision inside that machine, and it gets worse every cycle.
high
SENSING-FILLBasically the washer hits its first step, tries to confirm water's coming in and the lid's locked, and can't get a clean signal back from one of those sensors. So it just sits there waiting. It won't move to wash until every box is checked.
moderate
SQUEAK-SPINThe washer's throwing out a high-pitched friction noise during the spin cycle, which means something's rubbing that shouldn't be. Usually it's the drive system, belt, idler pulley, or the main tub bearings starting to fail.
high
SUDYour washer's detected an over-sudsing condition. The pressure sensor's picking up air pockets instead of water, or the motor's sensing too much drag from foam. Either way, the machine can't spin or drain properly, so it stops and throws the code at you.
low
SUDSThe washer's detected way too many soap bubbles in the drum. There's so much foam the machine can't drain or spin properly, so the pressure sensor reads all those suds as standing water and tells the control board to pause everything until it clears up.
moderate
TROUBLESHOOTINGGeneral repair guide covering the most common mechanical and electrical failure points in a top-loading washing machine. Applies to both belt-drive and direct-drive models from all major brands.
moderate
TROUBLESHOOTINGYour washer's throwing a fit because something in the mechanical or electrical system is out of spec. Could be a blocked pump, a snapped belt, a dead sensor, or a fried solenoid. The machine's basically trying to tell you something's wrong before it does something worse and more expensive.
moderate
WATER-DRIPPINGWater's getting into your drum when the machine isn't running. The inlet valve, basically an electrically controlled gate between your house plumbing and the washer, can't hold back the water pressure anymore. Either the rubber seal inside has failed mechanically, or debris is physically holding it open.
high
uLuL stands for Unbalanced Load. The control board watches the motor's current draw and the tub's rotational speed. When the basket wobbles outside the acceptable range during spin ramp-up, it cuts power and throws this code to keep the machine from beating itself apart.
moderate

Waterheater

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CodeMeaning
HOW-TO-REPLACE-WARRANTYA step-by-step guide to navigating the home warranty claim process so you actually get a full unit replacement instead of a band-aid repair. When a tank's truly failed, most contracts require replacement. You just have to know how to prove it.
low
NO-HOT-WATERThe heater's heat source stopped working or can't maintain temperature. For gas units that means the burner's not firing. For electric, one or both elements burned out or a safety switch tripped. Tankless units won't fire at all if the flow sensor doesn't detect enough water moving through the unit.
moderate
NOT-HEATINGYour 240-volt heating circuit quit somewhere. Either power's not reaching the unit, the safety switch cut the circuit because temps spiked past 180 degrees, or the heating elements themselves burned out and can't convert electricity to heat anymore. One of those three, pretty much every time.
high