Warning: Disconnect power before servicing.

Gas Stove Oven Will Not Light

Quick Answer

The most likely culprit is a failed bake igniter which has lost the ability to get hot enough to open the gas valve. Check for a bright white glow at the bottom of the oven. If it glows orange but the gas never flows, the igniter is too weak and needs replacement.

I've seen this exact problem hundreds of times and nine times out of ten it's the igniter. The whole job takes maybe 30 minutes if you're not fighting rusted screws. What you don't want to do is ignore it, because repeated failed lighting attempts can stress the safety valve, and that part costs way more than the igniter. Catch it now, fix it cheap.

GenericOvenSeverity: highDifficulty: intermediate95% DIY Success
Time to Fix
30–90 min
Difficulty
intermediate
Parts Cost
$25 – $150
Tools Needed
Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver or 5/16 inch socket

What Does the GAS-OVEN-NO-LIGHT Code Mean?

OK so here's the deal, replacing a gas igniter is honestly one of the most common oven repairs out there. It's not some big scary gas job, it's basically unplugging a connector and swapping a cheap part. I replace three or four of these a week during busy season. Budget 30 to 80 bucks for the part and you're looking at a pretty easy afternoon fix.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Weak or cracked bake igniter82%
Faulty gas safety valve8%
Failed oven control board relay5%
Wiring harness failure or thermal fuse5%

Symptoms You May Notice

  • The oven takes forever to preheat, like 25 to 30 minutes to hit 350, because the igniter's weak and the valve is barely cracked open enough for a small flame.
  • You can see a dull orange glow at the bottom of the oven cavity but the burner never catches, just sits there glowing uselessly while the clock runs.
  • There's a faint gas smell for the first 30 to 60 seconds after you turn the oven on, then nothing happens and the smell fades because the valve gave up.
  • The oven light and display work totally fine but when you set it to bake there's no clicking, no glow, just silence and cold air.
  • Burner actually lights for a second or two then cuts right back out and you hear that clicking again, like it's trying to relight over and over.

Can you reset a Generic oven to clear the GAS-OVEN-NO-LIGHT code?

Gas ovens don't have a dedicated reset button, but here's what to try. Turn the oven off and unplug the unit from the wall. Wait a full 5 minutes, not just 30 seconds. Plug it back in and let the display finish initializing before you try bake mode again. Some Frigidaire and GE models will clear a soft control fault just from a power cycle. If it still won't light after that, you've got a real hardware problem and a power cycle won't fix it.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driver or 5/16 inch socketDigital multimeter (any basic model works)Work glovesFlashlight or headlampPenetrating oil like PB Blaster for rusted screws

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range40400 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name
Flat Style Oven Igniter74007498 · $25–$55
Round Style IgniterWB13K21 · $30–$65
Dual Gas Safety ValveWP98014893 · $80–$150

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my oven igniter glow but the gas won't light?
This is honestly the thing I explain most on these calls. The igniter doesn't just spark the gas, it's actually wired in series with the gas valve as a resistor. As it gets older its resistance climbs, which means it can't pull enough current to heat the bimetal strip inside the safety valve all the way open. It looks orange and it looks like it's working, but if it's not pulling at least 3.2 to 3.6 amps that valve's staying shut. Your oven's trying, it just doesn't have enough juice anymore.
Can I light my gas oven with a match if the igniter's broken?
On most ovens built in the last 30 years or so, no. That safety valve physically won't open without the igniter doing its electrical job first. It's not like the old standing pilot light setups where you could just hold a flame near the burner tube. The whole point of that valve is to keep gas from flowing if the ignition system isn't working. Don't try to bypass it, seriously.
How much does it cost to fix an oven that won't light?
DIY you're looking at 30 to 80 bucks for a decent igniter, maybe 15 minutes watching a YouTube video for your specific model and 20 minutes of actual work. If you call a tech out, expect somewhere between 150 and 300 dollars total with the service call and labor included. Honestly one of the cheapest oven fixes there is. Way cheaper than a new range.
Is it safe to replace the oven igniter myself?
Yeah, totally doable for most people. Just make sure you've closed the gas shutoff valve and unplugged the oven before you touch anything. The actual swap is usually two screws holding a metal bracket and a connector plug. The only real headache is rusted mounting screws, which happens a lot on ovens that are 10 or more years old. Spray a little penetrating oil on them and wait 10 minutes before you try to turn them and you'll be fine.
How do I know if it's the igniter or the gas valve that's bad?
Easy way to split the difference. If the igniter's not glowing at all, or it reads OL on your multimeter, it's the igniter, 95% of the time. If the igniter IS glowing bright white-hot but the gas still won't flow after 90 seconds, that's when you start suspecting the valve. Valves are less common but they do fail. They also cost more, usually 60 to 120 bucks for the part versus 30 to 60 for a typical igniter. Start with the igniter test, it's faster and cheaper.

Same Fix on Other Brands

Models Known to Experience GAS-OVEN-NO-LIGHT Errors

This repair applies to most Generic ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

GE JGS760SPSS, Whirlpool WFG505M0BS, Frigidaire FFGW2426US, Samsung NX58H5600SS, LG LRG3193ST, Bosch HGI8054UC, Maytag MGR8800FZ, GE JGB700SEJ

MS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on May 20, 2024