Warning: Disconnect power before servicing.

Gas Oven Troubleshooting: Why Your Oven Won't Heat or Light

Quick Answer

The most common reason a gas oven won't heat is a weakened igniter that glows but fails to open the gas valve. Check for a bright orange glow at the bottom of the oven; if it stays dark or glows dimly without a flame, the igniter needs replacement.

Fifteen years I've been fixing these things, and weak igniter calls are basically my bread and butter. Ignore this and you're eating takeout, or worse, you're smelling gas every time you turn the dial. The igniter usually fails slowly, so by the time it completely quits, your gas valve's been struggling for weeks. Catch it early and it's a $50 fix. Wait too long and sometimes the valve goes with it.

GenericOvenSeverity: highDifficulty: intermediate92% DIY Success
Time to Fix
30–90 min
Difficulty
intermediate
Parts Cost
$25 – $150
Tools Needed
Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver

Gas Oven Troubleshooting: Why Your Oven Won't Heat or Light

OK so here's the deal with gas ovens. Most of the time it's the igniter, which is basically a consumable part like a spark plug, and most people don't even know it wears out gradually. The good news is twenty minutes, a multimeter, and a $50 part gets you back in business most of the time. Don't let anyone talk you into a new oven until you've actually ruled this stuff out.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Weak or cracked bake igniter45%
Faulty gas safety valve25%
Tripped thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat15%
Clogged burner tube ports10%
Failed oven control board5%

Symptoms You May Notice

  • You set it to 350, come back 30 minutes later, and the oven's still cold or barely warm to the touch.
  • There's a brief gas smell right when you turn it to bake, then nothing, like it tried to light and gave up.
  • You can see a dull red-orange glow through the bottom vents but you never hear that 'whoosh' of gas actually catching.
  • The control panel shows preheat, counts up normally, acts totally fine, but there's zero heat inside the oven cavity.
  • Constant clicking from the bottom of the oven that runs for a minute or two and then just stops on its own.

Can you reset a Generic oven to clear the NOT-HEATING code?

Gas ovens don't have a soft reset button, but here's what actually works. Find your circuit breaker and flip the oven's breaker off for a full 60 seconds, then flip it back on. If there's a dedicated gas shutoff valve behind or below the oven, close it for 30 seconds then reopen it. After power's restored, run a bake cycle at 350 for 10 minutes to confirm ignition. If the problem comes right back, the reset didn't fix the root cause and you need to dig deeper.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverDigital multimeter with ohms and continuity settingsWork glovesFlashlight or headlampOld toothbrush or wooden toothpick for burner port cleaning

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range40400 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name
Bake IgniterUniversal/Brand Specific · $25–$85
Gas Safety ValveDirect Replacement · $60–$150

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my gas oven glow orange but not light?
This is the most common call I get, honestly. The igniter's getting old and its resistance has crept up over time. It can still get hot enough to glow, but it can't pull the 3.2 to 3.6 amps needed to heat the bi-metal strip inside the gas safety valve. That valve is spring-loaded shut and only opens when it gets enough heat from enough amperage. So the igniter glows, the valve stays shut, gas never flows, no flame. Classic failing igniter. I probably replace six of these a month across different brands.
Can I light my gas oven with a match if the igniter is broken?
Probably not, and don't try. Most ovens from the last 25 to 30 years use a glow-bar ignition system where the gas valve is intentionally wired to stay shut unless it detects a specific amperage from the igniter. It's a safety feature built right into the valve itself. The valve won't open from just a match flame. A few really old pilot-light ovens can be manually lit, but if yours has a glow bar igniter, the valve physically can't open that way. You could end up with unburned gas pooling in the oven cavity, which is a genuinely bad situation.
How much does it cost to fix a gas oven that won't heat?
DIY it and you're looking at $30 to $80 for a quality igniter depending on the brand, OEM vs aftermarket. I'd spend the extra few bucks on OEM if you can find it. Aftermarket igniters sometimes have slightly different resistance specs that cause problems down the road. Hire it out and expect $200 to $350 all in for the service call, parts, and labor. Honestly it's one of the more affordable appliance repairs you'll run into. Way cheaper than a new oven.
Why does my oven smell like gas but won't light?
Faint gas smell right when you turn it on, then it goes away? That's usually the igniter cracking the safety valve open just slightly before failing to ignite the gas. It's basically telling you the igniter is almost dead but not completely gone yet. If the smell is faint and only happens at startup, it's a repair issue, get it fixed soon. But if the smell is strong, doesn't go away, or you smell gas when the oven is completely off, stop everything. Shut off the gas supply valve and call your utility company. That's a completely different situation.
How long do gas oven igniters last?
Usually 5 to 10 years with normal use, though I've seen them die in 3 years on ovens that get heavy daily cooking and last 15+ on ones that barely get touched. The self-clean cycle is really hard on igniters since it runs the oven at 900+ degrees for several hours straight. If you run self-clean a lot, expect shorter igniter life. Most people don't replace them until they totally quit, but if your oven's slow to preheat and the igniter looks dim during the glow test, you're basically already at the end of its life.

Models Known to Experience NOT-HEATING Errors

This repair applies to most Generic ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

NX58H5600SS, WFG505M0BS, FGGH3047VF, JGB660SEJSS, LRG3193ST, KFGG500ESS, MGR8800FZ, JGBS66REKSS

MS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on May 20, 2024