Gas Stove Igniter Parts: Diagnosis and Replacement Guide
Quick Answer
The igniter acts as the electric match that glows white-hot to open the gas safety valve and light the burner. If your oven won't heat or you see a weak orange glow without a flame, the igniter has likely failed.
Here's what I see all the time: someone's been putting off the repair for weeks, oven's barely lighting, and then one day it just quits completely. Now they're ordering takeout and panicking. A weak igniter can also let a small amount of gas release before ignition happens, and that's not something you want to ignore. Get this fixed. A new igniter is usually under $30 and the job takes under an hour, seriously.
Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver or hex driver
What Does the IGNITER Code Mean?
Gas oven igniters don't usually die overnight. They fade. You'll notice it taking longer and longer to light, maybe 60 seconds, then 90, then two full minutes of that dim orange glow before it finally catches. That's the igniter losing its ability to pull enough current to crack the gas valve open. Most last five to seven years with normal use. Replacement parts run $15 to $40 depending on your brand, and honestly this is one of the more satisfying DIY fixes out there.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Element thinning from age and usage65%
Physical damage or cracks in the ceramic20%
Wiring harness or connector failure10%
Control board relay failure5%
Symptoms You May Notice
Your oven takes two full minutes or more to light and you're just standing there watching that orange glow, hoping it finally catches.
The igniter glows a dull orange for a long time but you never hear the gas whomp on and no flame appears.
Visible white spots, cracks, or a section of the element that looks lighter or pitted compared to the rest of it.
No heat at all. Oven control looks like it's on, you set a temp, nothing happens.
You can smell a faint hint of gas during the ignition attempt but the oven never actually lights.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driver or hex driverDigital multimeterWork gloves (no bare hands on the element)Flashlight or headlampCeramic wire nuts (only needed if using a universal igniter)
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range40–400 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Flat Style Oven Igniter12400035 · $30–$60
12400035
$30 – $60
Round Style Oven Igniter74007498 · $35–$75
74007498
$35 – $75
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a universal igniter instead of the OEM part?
Yeah, universal igniters work fine in most cases. The catch is they usually don't come with the right plug, so you'll need to cut the old connector off and use ceramic wire nuts to splice the wires together. Not hard, but you need to be comfortable with basic wiring. If you'd rather just plug something in and be done, hunt down the model-specific part. It costs a little more but there's zero splicing involved.
Why does the igniter glow but the oven still won't light?
This is the most common thing I see. The gas safety valve needs a specific amount of current flowing through the igniter, usually 3.2 to 3.6 amps, before it'll open and let gas through. As the igniter ages, its resistance goes up. It still gets hot enough to glow orange, but it can't pull enough amps to satisfy the valve. So the valve stays shut, no gas, no flame. The igniter looks like it's working but it's actually failing. Replacing it almost always fixes this exact situation.
Is it dangerous to touch the igniter element with my fingers?
Not dangerous for you, but really bad for the part. The oils your skin leaves behind sit on that silicon carbide surface, and when it heats up past 2000°F those oil spots create uneven thermal stress. You'll probably crack the new igniter within the first few uses. Use gloves. If you forgot and already touched it, wipe it down with a little isopropyl alcohol on a cloth before you put everything back together.
How do I know if I need a flat or a round igniter?
You have to look at the old part. Flat igniters and round igniters are not interchangeable, the mounting brackets are completely different. Take a picture of yours before you pull it out, then match the shape and mounting hole pattern when you order. If you've already removed it, bring it to the parts store or search using your model number. The model number is the most reliable way to get the right one.
Can a bad igniter cause a gas smell in my kitchen?
It can, yeah. Here's what happens: the oven control opens the gas valve for a few seconds trying to light, the igniter's too weak to actually ignite it, so raw gas vents into the oven cavity. Usually it dissipates quickly, but if you smell gas and nothing is lighting, shut the oven off and air the kitchen out before trying again. If it keeps happening or the smell is strong, call your gas company. Don't mess around with that one.
Models Known to Experience IGNITER Errors
This repair applies to most Generic ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include: