Washer Makes Grinding Noise When Spinning: Diagnosis and Fix
Quick Answer
A grinding noise during the spin cycle most often points to worn-out tub bearings or a failing splutch assembly. Start by spinning the empty drum by hand, if it feels rough or sounds like gravel, your main bearings have likely failed and require a major repair.
Fifteen years fixing washers and I still say the grinding spin is the most stressful call I get, because it's almost never a cheap fix. The sound you're hearing is usually either the beginning of a $30 repair or the end of a $500 one, and you won't know which until you dig in. Ignore it and you'll turn something fixable into a dead machine that's leaking on your laundry room floor.
OK here's the deal. That grinding isn't random, it's your washer telling you something's mechanically wrong, and the sooner you figure out what, the less it's gonna cost you. The first question you need to answer is whether that sound is plastic-on-plastic or metal-on-metal. Plastic grinding is usually a splutch or actuator issue, which is honestly a cheap DIY fix most of the time. Metal-on-metal, that deep roaring sound, means bearings, and that's where things get expensive fast, sometimes more than the machine's actually worth.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Worn out main tub bearings45%
Stripped splutch or drive pulley assembly25%
Object caught between the inner and outer tub15%
Frayed or glazed drive belt10%
Failing drive motor or stator5%
Symptoms You May Notice
A roaring sound that climbs as spin speed increases, kind of like a small airplane spooling up for takeoff
White or gray plastic dust on the floor under the machine after a cycle, that's ground-up splutch teeth right there
A rhythmic scraping or clicking that speeds up and slows down with the drum, like something's catching on each rotation
Burning rubber smell right when the cycle ends, usually means the belt's been slipping instead of gripping
The whole machine walking across the floor or vibrating way more than it used to, and it gets noticeably worse every week
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlathead screwdriverSocket set (7mm, 10mm, 1/2 inch)Putty knifeFlashlight or headlampLarge adjustable wrenchNeedle-nose pliersMultimeter
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range2000–3500 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Washer Splutch Cam KitW10721967 · $25–$55
W10721967
$25 – $55
Drive BeltWPW10006384 · $15–$35
WPW10006384
$15 – $35
Tub Bearing and Seal KitW10435302 · $60–$120
W10435302
$60 – $120
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a grinding washer worth fixing?
Depends completely on the cause. If it's a splutch kit or a worn belt, yeah, fix it. We're talking $20 to $40 in parts and an afternoon of your time. But if the main tub bearings are gone, that's a $400 to $600 repair on a good day, and that's before you factor in labor if you're not doing it yourself. For any machine older than 6 or 7 years, I usually tell people to put that money toward a new one instead. The math just doesn't work out in favor of the bearing repair on an old machine.
Can I still use my washer if it makes a grinding noise?
Honestly, I'd stop running it. If it's the bearings making that noise, the heat from the friction can melt plastic components inside or burn out the motor, and then you've turned a $400 repair into a total loss. If it's a loose pulley, it could fly off mid-cycle and punch through something it really shouldn't. I know a few trips to the laundromat is inconvenient, but it's way cheaper than replacing a whole washer because you ran it past the point of no return.
Why does my washer sound like a jet engine when spinning?
That roaring sound that climbs louder as spin speed goes up is the classic bearing failure sound, and I can usually diagnose it over the phone when someone describes it that way. When the waterproof seal fails, water gets into the steel ball bearings and they rust and pit. Then when the drum spins up to 700 or 1000 RPM, those damaged balls vibrate inside the race and make that loud roar. The faster it spins, the louder it gets. I've walked into houses where I could hear it from the driveway.
What does brown grease under my washer mean?
Brown grease or a spray pattern on the inside bottom of the cabinet means the main tub seal leaked. Water got into the bearing housing, washed out all the factory grease, mixed with rust from the bearing balls, and that whole slurry got flung around during spin. It's basically the machine showing you its own X-ray. Once you see that mark, the bearings are already damaged. You're not just replacing a seal at that point, you're looking at a full bearing job, and on some machines that means a new outer tub assembly.
How long does it take to replace washer bearings?
I'll be straight with you: it's a big job. On a front-loader, you're usually looking at 3 to 5 hours because you basically have to disassemble the whole machine to get to them. Top-loaders vary a lot by design. And here's the thing that catches people off guard: on some machines the bearings are pressed into a sealed outer tub, so you can't replace the bearings separately. You have to buy the whole outer tub assembly, and that part alone can run $150 to $300. Add everything up and you start to see why the replacement conversation comes up so often.