The most likely cause for a side by side fridge not getting cold is a failed evaporator fan or dirty condenser coils. Check if the freezer is still cold; if it is, the problem is almost certainly an airflow blockage or a fan failure in the freezer section.
In fifteen years of fixing these things, a side by side not cooling is rarely a total system death. It's usually a breathing problem where cold air from the freezer can't reach the fridge side. Ignore the clicking sounds or that frost buildup and the compressor will eventually overheat and fail, turning a $30 fan repair into a $600 compressor job or just a new fridge.
Phillips #2 screwdriver, Nut driver set (1/4 inch and 5/16 inch)
Side by Side Fridge Not Getting Cold: DIY Fixes
Diagnostic fees for cooling issues usually start at $150, but you can narrow this down yourself. We're looking for simple blocks like dust on the coils or ice buildup. If the compressor's humming but it's warm, we're probably looking at a component failure rather than a refrigerant leak, which is good news because component failures are usually fixable for under $100.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Dirty condenser coils35%
Failed evaporator fan motor25%
Defrost system failure (Heater/Thermostat)20%
Stuck air diffuser damper10%
Bad compressor start relay10%
Symptoms You May Notice
Freezer is still freezing food solid but the fridge side is sitting around 55 to 65°F, basically room temperature.
Clicking sound from the back every 3 to 5 minutes as the compressor tries to kick on and immediately shuts back off.
The unit runs constantly but never drops below 50°F no matter how cold you set it.
Ice cream's gotten soft and mushy, or it's got frost crystals forming on the surface which means temps are bouncing around.
Puddle of water on the floor in front of or under the fridge from melted frost draining out.
Can you reset a Generic refrigerator to clear the NOT-COOLING code?
Unplug the fridge for at least 10 minutes, not just 30 seconds. That gives the control board time to fully discharge and reset. Plug it back in and give it 4 to 6 hours before you judge whether it's cooling right. For GE models, you can also reset the board by holding 'Door Alarm' and 'Water Filter' simultaneously for 3 seconds with the doors closed.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverNut driver set (1/4 inch and 5/16 inch)Vacuum with crevice toolCondenser coil cleaning brushMultimeterHair dryer (for manual defrosting)Flashlight or headlampRefrigerator thermometer
Service / Diagnostic Mode
On many Whirlpool models, open the fridge door and press the door switch while pressing the 'Temp Plus' button 3 times within 10 seconds to enter service mode.
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range1–50 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Evaporator Fan MotorWR60X10185 · $45–$110
WR60X10185
$45 – $110
Refrigerator Start RelayWPW10189190 · $15–$40
WPW10189190
$15 – $40
Defrost HeaterWR51X10055 · $25–$60
WR51X10055
$25 – $60
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my freezer cold but my fridge is warm?
On a side by side, all the cold air gets made in the freezer. The fridge side just borrows that cold air through a duct. So if the fridge is warm but the freezer's still doing its thing, you're not looking at a dead compressor or a refrigerant leak. It's an airflow problem. Either the evaporator fan quit, the damper got stuck closed, or ice built up and blocked the passage between the two sides. Start with the fan check first because that's the most common cause and it's usually cheap to fix.
How often should I clean my fridge coils?
Every 6 to 12 months is the standard answer. But if you've got dogs or cats, honestly every 3 to 4 months. I pulled a coil set last week on a Whirlpool that looked like someone had stapled a wool sweater to it. Family had two golden retrievers and hadn't cleaned it once in four years. Compressor was running way over temp. Clean coils can literally add years to a compressor's life and knock a few bucks off your monthly power bill. It takes 15 minutes with a vacuum and a coil brush.
Can I just unplug it to fix the cooling issue?
If the problem's an ice blockage on the evaporator, unplugging it for 24 to 48 hours will melt that ice and get things working again temporarily. And I do mean temporarily. If the defrost heater or defrost timer is actually broken, the ice is coming back in 3 to 7 days and you're right back where you started. It's worth doing the manual defrost just to confirm it IS an ice blockage, but don't stop there. You'll still need to find out what failed in the defrost system and replace it.
What does a clicking sound from the back mean?
Clicking every few minutes is almost always the compressor trying to start and failing. Most common reason is a bad start relay, a little $15 to $25 part that clips onto the side of the compressor. Pull it out and shake it. If it rattles like a maraca, it's dead, replace it. But clicking can also mean the compressor's overheating and tripping its thermal overload, which points back to a dirty condenser fan or coils. Clean everything first, then check the relay before you start worrying about a full compressor replacement.
How do I know if my compressor is actually failing or if it's something simpler?
This is the question that matters for your wallet. If the compressor's humming steadily and the two lines going into it feel like different temperatures, one hot and one cold, it's probably working fine and the problem's somewhere else. If it's clicking on and off every few minutes, running for 30 seconds then stopping, or running hot without cycling, you could have a bad start relay or a compressor that's on its way out. Get a tech to check the amp draw. A healthy compressor pulls 1 to 4 amps. Way over that and it's struggling. Compressor replacement usually runs $400 to $600 installed, so it's worth a $100 diagnostic call first.