How to Diagnose and Replace a Gas Igniter in Your Oven

Quick Answer

A gas igniter glows white-hot to pull enough electrical current to open the gas valve and light the burner. Nine times out of ten, the most common sign of failure is an oven that glows orange but never actually produces a flame.

I've seen plenty of folks wait until Thanksgiving to figure out their oven's dying. Ignoring a weak igniter isn't just a dinner problem, it can cause a small gas buildup if the valve keeps trying to open without a flame catching. It's a straightforward fix most people can handle themselves with a nut driver and about an hour. You'll save at least $200 compared to a service call.

GenericOvenSeverity: highDifficulty: intermediate92% DIY Success

Time to Fix

30–60 min

Difficulty

intermediate

Parts Cost

$25 – $85

Tools Needed

1/4 inch nut driver, Phillips #2 screwdriver

What Does the IGNITER Code Mean?

Most gas igniters last five to seven years, sometimes less if you bake constantly. Replace it the moment you see it glowing dull orange instead of bright yellow-white, or if you're hearing the oven click and click without ever catching a flame. It's basically a wear-and-tear part, like a fancy lightbulb. Parts run $15-50 depending on your stove, and honestly the hardest part of this whole job is getting down on the kitchen floor.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Thermal fatigue (normal age and wear)75%

Physical crack or breakage15%

Electrical short or surge7%

Contamination from spills or oils3%

Symptoms You May Notice

You turn on the oven and wait, and wait, and the thing just sits there glowing a dull orange for two full minutes before you give up and catch a whiff of gas.
There's a faint but definite smell of unburned gas when the oven first kicks on, usually hanging around for 30-60 seconds before it either lights or you shut it off in frustration.
The igniter doesn't glow at all when you set it to bake, total darkness under that bottom panel, nothing happening.
Cookies burning on the bottom but completely raw on top, because the burner's firing inconsistently and the oven temp is swinging way more than it should.
You can hear a faint hiss of gas and maybe a tick from the valve trying to open, but nothing ever actually ignites and the oven just shuts itself off as a safety measure.

Can you reset a Generic oven to clear the IGNITER code?

Gas igniters don't have an electronic reset sequence. After swapping the part, plug the oven back in and turn the gas supply valve back on fully. Set the oven to bake at 350°F and watch for ignition within 45 seconds. Let it run a full 15-20 minute cycle and confirm the temp holds steady before you trust it for cooking again.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

1/4 inch nut driverPhillips #2 screwdriverDigital multimeterNeedle-nose pliersWork gloves or latex glovesFlashlight or headlampPaper towel (for handling new igniter element safely)

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range40–400 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Universal Flat Style Igniter700189 · $25–$65	700189	$25 – $65
Round Style IgniterWB13K21 · $35–$85	WB13K21	$35 – $85

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a flat igniter to replace a round one?

No, and I've seen this exact mistake cause a second service call three weeks later. Flat and round igniters have different amperage ratings, and that matters because the gas safety valve won't open unless the igniter draws a specific current threshold. Use the wrong style and you'll either get no flame at all or burn the new igniter out fast. Match the style and part number to your exact model. The label's usually on a sticker inside the door frame.

Why shouldn't I touch the gray part of the new igniter?

Your skin oil is the enemy here. That gray element gets up to around 2000°F during normal operation, and any oil on the surface creates a thermal hot spot. That hot spot causes the ceramic to crack, often on the very first use. You'll know it happened because the new igniter dies almost immediately and you'll see a hairline crack in the element when you pull it back out. Always grab it by the bracket, use latex gloves, or wrap the element in a paper towel while you're handling it.

Does it matter which wire goes to which terminal?

Nope. Almost every gas oven igniter is non-polarized, meaning neither wire is positive or negative in a traditional sense. Just make sure both terminals are making solid contact and the connector is fully clicked together. If a wire's even slightly loose, the igniter will work intermittently and it'll drive you completely crazy trying to diagnose it again.

How do I know if the problem is the gas valve instead of the igniter?

If the igniter glows bright yellow-white and holds that for more than 90 seconds without the gas lighting, then start looking at the gas valve or the safety thermostat. But honestly, 95% of the time it's the igniter. I replaced three of these last Tuesday alone. The igniter can glow without drawing the full amperage needed to trip the valve's internal magnets, so it looks like it's working when it actually isn't pulling enough current to open the valve.

How much does a replacement igniter cost and where do I buy one?

Parts run anywhere from $15 to $50 depending on the brand and whether you go OEM or aftermarket. Have your model number ready before you order, it's on a sticker inside the door frame or sometimes on a plate on the back. Appliance parts sites will cross-reference your model to the right igniter. Don't cheap out and go generic if you can help it. I bought a $12 generic once to save a few bucks and had to redo the job five months later. OEM parts fit better and last longer.

Models Known to Experience IGNITER Errors

This repair applies to most Generic ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

Whirlpool WFG320M0BS, GE JGBS66REKSS, Frigidaire FFGF3054TSA, Samsung NX58H5600SS, LG LRG3061ST, Bosch HGI8054UC, KitchenAid KSGB900ESS, GE Profile PGB911SEJSS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026