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ErrBase

How to Balance a Front Loading Washing Machine

Quick Answer

To balance a front loading washer, place a bubble level on top and adjust the threaded legs until the machine is perfectly level from side to side and front to back. Once level, ensure all four feet are firmly touching the floor and tighten the locking nuts against the frame to prevent the legs from moving.

A shaky washer isn't just annoying, it's actively destroying your machine. Those high-RPM spin cycles put serious stress on the tub bearings and suspension rods, and if the machine's rocking instead of spinning true, you're grinding those parts down every single load. I've seen people ignore this for a year and end up with a $400 bearing replacement job that a 15-minute level check would've prevented completely.

GenericWasherSeverity: lowDifficulty:
Time to Fix
10–20 min
Difficulty
Parts Cost
$0 (no parts needed)
Tools Needed
Bubble level (at least 12 inches), Adjustable wrench or 1-inch open-end wrench

How to Balance a Front Loading Washing Machine

OK so here's the deal: this is genuinely a DIY job. You don't need to call anyone. A bubble level and a wrench, maybe 20 minutes of your Saturday, and you're done. Front loaders are way more sensitive to being level than top loaders because of how fast they spin. I'd check it once a year, and definitely any time you move the machine or the floor gets new tile or flooring.

Common Causes

  • Brand new installation where nobody actually checked the level during setup, which is honestly the most common thing I see. People slide the machine into a tight laundry closet and figure if it fits, it's fine. It's not.
  • Shipping bolts still in the back. Those big red or yellow bolts hold the drum completely rigid for transport. Leave them in and the machine will shake so violently you'd swear it's broken. I replaced three machines last spring that were returned to stores over this exact thing.
  • The lock nuts on the adjustable feet weren't tightened after the initial leveling job, so the spin cycle vibration slowly turned the feet off-level over weeks or months until the whole thing started wandering across the floor.
  • The floor itself is sloped or flexing under spin load. Older homes especially, where the laundry room's upstairs on wood joists, the floor can actually move. You'll feel it if you put your foot on the floor right next to the machine during spin.
  • The leveling feet seized up from rust and corrosion and won't turn anymore, so the machine's been sitting crooked for years because nobody could adjust them even if they wanted to.

Symptoms You May Notice

  • The machine walks across the floor during spin cycle, sometimes several inches per load until it's hitting the wall or the dryer.
  • A constant rhythmic banging that gets worse as spin speed ramps up. This is different from an off-balance load noise, which is more irregular. This one is consistent and gets louder.
  • The whole cabinet visibly shakes. You can see it flexing. That should not be happening.
  • Spin cycle that's progressively gotten louder over the past few months, not all at once but slowly creeping up, which usually means the balance problem has been causing bearing wear too.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Bubble level (at least 12 inches)Adjustable wrench or 1-inch open-end wrenchPhillips #2 screwdriverFlashlight or headlampPenetrating oil spray like PB Blaster (if feet are seized)Pliers (for stubborn lock nuts)Socket wrench with 8mm and 10mm sockets (for shipping bolt removal)

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my washer still shake even if it's perfectly level?
If you've confirmed level and all four feet are touching, check the floor itself. On second-floor laundry rooms with wood joists, the floor can actually flex under spin load. Test it by putting your foot on the floor right next to the machine during a spin cycle and see if you feel movement. Anti-vibration pads under the feet help a ton for this. Also rule out an uneven load, like one heavy towel spinning solo. If all that's fine and it's getting progressively worse over months, you might be dealing with worn suspension rods or drum bearings inside the machine, which is a different problem entirely.
Can I use a piece of wood or cardboard to shim the feet?
Honestly, no. Cardboard compresses under the weight and gets wet from any moisture on a laundry room floor. Wood can work short-term but it shifts. And neither one locks in place, so the vibration from spin will walk that shim right out of position. The adjustable feet exist for this exact reason. If a foot is seized and won't turn, penetrating oil and patience usually works. If it's stripped or broken, replacement leveling feet for most machines run $8-15 on parts sites and they just screw right in. Way easier than fighting with a shim that'll fail anyway.
How do I know if the vibration is actually 'normal' or a problem?
A properly balanced front loader on a solid floor should be pretty quiet. You can stand next to it during spin and have a normal conversation. Some slight hum is fine. What's not normal: walking across the floor, banging sounds, stuff falling off shelves nearby, the cabinet visibly rocking. Also, if it's been getting progressively louder over several months rather than suddenly loud, that's usually worn drum bearings starting to go, not a balance issue. Sudden bad vibration is usually balance. Creeping, worsening noise over time is usually mechanical wear inside.
Do I need to level the dryer too?
Level it enough so it looks right sitting next to the washer, but it's not nearly as critical. Dryers just tumble clothes at low speed, there's no centrifugal spin, so being slightly off-level doesn't cause mechanical stress the way it does in a washer. That said, if your dryer's dramatically tilted, it can mess with the door seal on front-load dryers. So get it close. But don't stress about it the way you would with the washer. The washer's the one that'll cost you money if it's crooked.
How often should I check if my washer is level?
Once a year is totally fine if you tightened the lock nuts properly. I tell people to check it around the same time they clean the drain pump filter, just make it the same yearly maintenance pass. But definitely check it after moving the machine, after any flooring work in the laundry room, or any time you notice more noise during spin than usual. The rock test takes literally 10 seconds. Push on two corners, feel for wobble, done. If there's no wobble and it's not getting louder, you're good for another year.

Models Known to Experience HOW-TO-BALANCE Errors

This repair applies to most Generic washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

LG WM3900HWA, Samsung WF45R6100AW, Whirlpool WFW5000GW, Maytag MHW5630HW, GE GFW550SSNWW, Bosch WAT28401UC, Electrolux EFLS627UTT, Kenmore 41302

MS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026