The igniter is the component that glows to light the gas burner. If your oven takes too long to light or won't heat at all even though you see a faint orange glow, the igniter has likely weakened and needs replacement.
A weak igniter won't just leave you without dinner. It lets gas build up before it finally catches, and that little 'whump' you hear isn't great for your valve or your nerves. I've seen gas valves go bad from years of that abuse. Swap the part for $30-50 now and you're done. Ignore it and you're looking at a $200+ valve replacement on top of everything else.
These things usually last 5-7 years before they give out. I replaced four of them just last week. They're basically a heating filament that also has to draw enough amps to crack open a gas safety valve. Once the resistance climbs too high, the valve stays shut, the gas doesn't flow, and you've got a cold oven. Pretty simple failure, honestly, and one of the easiest gas appliance repairs you can do yourself.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Normal wear and tear from heat cycles80%
Physical damage or cracked ceramic base10%
Contamination from grease or spills7%
Wiring harness failure or loose connection3%
Symptoms You May Notice
Oven takes longer than 90 seconds to ignite. Healthy igniters light in 30-45 seconds, so if you're standing there watching and waiting, something's wrong.
You see the igniter glowing orange through the bottom vents but the burner never catches. This is the classic weak igniter look right here.
Strong smell of gas before ignition, or a small 'whump' sound when it finally lights because gas built up waiting for the igniter to get hot enough.
Oven won't hold temperature and keeps cycling on and off trying to relight, which is rough on the gas valve over time.
Igniter stays completely dark when you turn the oven on. Circuit's broken. That's a dead igniter.
Can you reset a Generic oven to clear the IGNITER code?
There's no electronic reset for a gas oven igniter swap. After installing the new part, restore power and gas, then run the oven at 350°F for about 15 minutes to confirm it lights and holds temperature. If the igniter doesn't glow within 90 seconds on the first try, cycle the oven off and back on once before digging any deeper.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driver5/16 inch nut driverMultimeter with ohms settingWire strippers (if using universal igniter)Porcelain wire nuts (usually included with universal kits)Flashlight or headlamp
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range40–400 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Flat Style Oven Igniter700489 · $25–$45
700489
$25 – $45
Round Style Oven IgniterWB2X9154 · $30–$60
WB2X9154
$30 – $60
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a universal igniter instead of the OEM part?
Yeah, you can, as long as the shape matches your burner. Flat igniters and round igniters aren't interchangeable, so check that first. Universal kits usually mean you'll cut the old plug off and connect with porcelain wire nuts, which is totally fine, just takes a few extra minutes. Use the porcelain nuts they include, not standard plastic ones. Plastic melts at oven temps and you'll be doing this whole job again in a month. Part numbers like Norton 501A or Supco GNIKIT are popular universals that fit a ton of common models.
Why does my igniter glow but the oven won't light?
This is the most common call I get on gas ovens. The igniter's still alive but it's weak. It's a resistor, and over time the resistance goes up, which means the current draw goes down. The gas safety valve needs at least 3.2 amps to open. If your igniter's only pulling 2.5 amps, it'll glow orange forever and nothing happens. You can't repair it, you can only replace it. The good news is the part's cheap and the job's straightforward.
Is it dangerous to change an oven igniter myself?
Honestly, it's one of the safer appliance repairs out there. You're not cutting gas lines or doing anything crazy. You unplug the oven, shut the gas valve off, and swap a part. The only real risks are breaking the fragile element by bumping it during removal, or forgetting to shut the gas off before you start. As long as you don't smell gas when you're done and you've verified the burner lights cleanly, you're fine. It's way less intimidating than it sounds.
What happens if I touch the igniter element with my bare hands?
The oils from your skin absorb into the silicon carbide and create tiny hot spots when the element heats up. Those spots expand faster than the surrounding material and crack the element, often within the first few uses. If you do accidentally touch it, wipe it down gently with a little rubbing alcohol on a cloth and let it dry completely before installing. Don't skip that step or you'll be replacing your brand new igniter again way sooner than you should be.
How do I know it's the igniter and not the gas valve?
Check the igniter's ohm reading first. If it's in range (40-400 ohms) and it's glowing bright white but the burner still won't light, then yeah, the gas valve is probably the issue. Valves usually fail stuck closed, meaning no gas gets through no matter how good the igniter is. A valve replacement is a bigger job and the part runs $80-150, so test the igniter thoroughly before going there. In my experience it's the igniter about 85% of the time, so start there.
How much does a replacement igniter cost, and is it worth fixing?
Parts run $20-60 depending on whether you go OEM or universal and what brand oven you have. The repair takes about 30-45 minutes if you've never done it before, maybe 20 once you know what you're looking at. A service call just to diagnose this problem will cost you $80-120 before they even order the part. Do it yourself and you're saving real money on a repair that'll last years. It's basically the best ROI in home appliance repair.
Models Known to Experience IGNITER Errors
This repair applies to most Generic ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include: