How to Diagnose and Replace a Gas Oven Range Igniter

Quick Answer

The range igniter is the heating element that gets hot enough to both ignite the gas and signal the safety valve to open. If you see a dull orange glow but the burner never lights, the igniter has likely lost its ability to draw enough current and needs to be swapped out.

A weak igniter doesn't always die dramatically. Sometimes you just notice the oven's taking forever to hit 350, or you catch a faint whiff of gas right when you turn it on. Ignore it long enough and you'll end up with an oven that just flat-out won't light. The part itself runs $20-50, so this is absolutely worth doing yourself before calling someone out.

GenericOvenSeverity: highDifficulty: intermediate92% DIY Success

Time to Fix

20–45 min

Difficulty

intermediate

Parts Cost

$25 – $65

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver

What Does the IGNITER Code Mean?

Gas oven igniters fail more than any other single part I deal with. Most are silicon carbide, and they degrade over time whether you use the oven every day or once a week. Once that resistance climbs too high, the igniter can't pull the 3.2 to 3.6 amps the safety valve needs to crack open. Your oven just sits there glowing orange, doing nothing useful.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Heat stress and age-related resistance increase75%

Physical crack or breakage15%

Wiring or connector failure10%

Symptoms You May Notice

The oven takes 20+ minutes to hit 350 degrees when it used to do it in 12
A dull cherry-red or orange glow from the igniter, but the burner never lights, just sitting there glowing uselessly while gas keeps trying to open
Faint gas smell right when you turn the oven on, lasts maybe 30 seconds then stops as the safety valve gives up trying to open
Clicking sound from the oven but no flame, like it's trying and failing on a loop
No glow at all when set to bake, oven is completely dead, even though the stovetop burners work fine

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverDigital multimeterCeramic wire nutsWork glovesRubbing alcohol and a clean clothFlashlight or headlamp

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range40–400 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Universal Flat Oven Igniter700189 · $25–$55	700189	$25 – $55
Round Style Oven IgniterWP316489402 · $30–$65	WP316489402	$30 – $65

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my igniter glow but the oven won't light?

This is the classic weak igniter symptom. The igniter still has enough juice to glow, but it's not drawing the 3.2 to 3.6 amps needed to pull the gas safety valve open. Think of it like a car battery that can power the dome light but can't crank the starter. A bright white-hot glow means it's working, a dull orange means it's failing. The valve's not broken, the igniter just can't signal it hard enough. Time to replace it.

Can I use an aftermarket igniter instead of the OEM part?

Honestly, yeah, most of the time aftermarket is fine. Universal flat igniters work on a huge range of brands and models. The key thing is the amperage rating, it should be 3.2 to 3.6 amps for most residential ovens. I've put in $22 aftermarket igniters that lasted just as long as the $60 OEM versions. Just make sure the physical dimensions and mounting hole spacing match up before you order. Check the part number on your old igniter and cross-reference it.

What happens if I touch the igniter with my hands?

The oils from your fingers stay on the ceramic. When that igniter heats up past 2000 degrees, those oils create hot spots that stress the ceramic and crack it within a few heat cycles. I've seen brand new igniters fail in a week because someone grabbed the element during install. It's frustrating because the repair looks right but the part is already compromised. If you do touch it by accident, wipe it down with rubbing alcohol on a clean cloth before you put it in.

How do I know if it's the igniter or the gas valve?

Nine times out of ten it's the igniter. But if you've already replaced the igniter and it's still not lighting, then you're looking at the gas safety valve. The way to check is to measure the current the igniter is actually drawing while it's glowing. If it's pulling 3.2+ amps and the valve still won't open, the valve's bad. Most homeowners don't have an amp clamp sitting around, so replacing the igniter first is the right call anyway since it's way cheaper and it's almost always the guilty party.

How much does this repair cost, and is it worth calling a pro?

The igniter part itself runs $20 to $60 depending on your brand and whether you go OEM or aftermarket. A service call to have a tech do it will run you $150 to $250 all in, and that's if they have the part on the truck. If your oven is less than 10 years old, just do it yourself, this is genuinely one of the easier appliance repairs you can do. If the oven's 15+ years old and showing other issues too, then maybe think hard about whether it's worth putting money into it at all.

Models Known to Experience IGNITER Errors

This repair applies to most Generic ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

FGB24L2ASA, WFG505M0BS, JGBP28BEAWH, NX58H5600SS, MGR8674AS, KGRS807SSS, PGB908SEMSS, LRG3061ST

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026