The heating element is the heart of your dryer, responsible for warming the air to evaporate moisture from your clothes. The most common sign it has failed is a dryer that tumbles perfectly fine but stays bone cold throughout the entire cycle.
Look, a dead heating element won't wreck the rest of your dryer, but you're basically paying for electricity just to spin wet clothes around. A service call runs $250 to $400 easy. Most people can swap this part themselves in 45 minutes for $20 to $50 in parts. It's honestly one of the most satisfying DIY appliance fixes out there, and I've talked a ton of neighbors through doing it themselves.
Multimeter with ohms setting, Phillips #2 screwdriver
What Does the HEATING-ELEMENT Code Mean?
Most elements last 10 to 15 years, but a clogged vent duct can kill one in two or three years flat. Don't wait to fix it. Swap it out the moment the air stops getting hot. Here's something a lot of people don't know: a partially shorted coil can keep pushing heat even when the dryer's off, and that's a real fire risk, not just a nuisance.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Airflow restriction (clogged vents)65%
Normal wear and tear (age)20%
Electrical surge or short circuit10%
Manufacturing defect5%
Symptoms You May Notice
Dryer tumbles but provides no heat
Clothes take multiple cycles to dry
A faint burning smell or a 'pop' sound before heat stopped
Dryer trips the house circuit breaker immediately when started
The dryer drum feels cold even after running for 20 minutes
Can you reset a Generic dryer to clear the HEATING-ELEMENT code?
After replacing the element, unplug the dryer for at least 5 minutes to let the control board fully reset. If you find a small red reset button near the motor or heater assembly (not all dryers have one, but a lot do), press it firmly until you feel a click. Plug back in, select a timed dry cycle, and let it run for 5 minutes. You should feel heat at the exhaust vent pretty quickly.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Multimeter with ohms settingPhillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driver (5/16 inch for some brands)Work gloves, cut-resistantVacuum with hose attachment for lint cleanupNeedle-nose pliers for wire terminals
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range15–50 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Dryer Heating ElementGeneric/Universal · $25–$85
Generic/Universal
$25 – $85
Thermal Cut-Off KitGeneric/Universal · $12–$30
Generic/Universal
$12 – $30
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I just stretch the old coil back together and twist it?
No. Just no. A twisted connection carrying 240V is going to arc and get insanely hot, way hotter than the coil was ever designed to handle. That's literally how dryer fires start, and I've seen the aftermath. Replacement elements are $20 to $50 on Amazon or at any appliance parts store. It's genuinely not worth the risk, not even a little bit.
Should I buy an OEM element or a cheaper aftermarket one?
Honestly, for older machines that are 8 or 10 years old, a good aftermarket part is totally fine. The quality has come a long way and you're not throwing good money after bad. But if your dryer's newer and you want it to last, go OEM. The wire gauge is usually heavier and it holds up better over thousands of heat cycles. I replaced three of these last Tuesday and two of those customers went OEM specifically because they wanted the machine running another 5 or 6 years.
Why does my heating element keep burning out every year?
That's your vent, almost guaranteed. If hot air can't escape fast enough, the element just cooks itself. Check the exhaust hose behind the machine first, those flexible foil ducts kink and crush really easily, especially if the dryer's shoved close to the wall. Then go outside and look where it exits your house. A lot of times there's a flap stuck closed or the duct is packed solid with lint. Get that cleaned out and your next element will last way, way longer.
If the element tests good, why is there still no heat?
Check the thermal fuse next. It's a one-time safety device, usually a small white or black cylinder mounted on the exhaust duct near the heating assembly, and it blows permanently if the dryer overheated. Costs $5 to $10 and it fails constantly. After that, look at the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat. Any one of those can cut power to the heater without the element itself being the problem.
How long does it take to replace a heating element yourself?
Most people get it done in 45 minutes to an hour their first time. If you've done it before, more like 20 or 25 minutes. The hardest part is usually getting the cabinet panels off without stripping screws, so just go slow there and use a proper nut driver instead of pliers. Watch one YouTube video for your specific model before you start and you'll be totally fine. It's genuinely one of the easier appliance repairs there is.
Is it worth repairing my dryer or should I just replace it?
If your dryer's under 10 years old and otherwise runs fine, fix it. A heating element is $20 to $50 in parts, and even paying a tech to do it you're probably looking at $150 to $250 all in. A new dryer starts at $400 for budget stuff and $800 or more for anything decent. The math isn't even close. Now if your dryer's 15 years old and the drum bearing's also going and the door seal is shot, that's a different conversation.
Models Known to Experience HEATING-ELEMENT Errors
This repair applies to most Generic dryers with this error code. Common model numbers include: