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ErrBase

Generic Dryer Error Codes

All Generic dryer error codes with step-by-step troubleshooting, multimeter specs, and OEM part numbers.

30 error codes

CodeMeaning
CLEANINGRoutine removal of lint, debris, and obstructions from high-capacity commercial exhaust systems to maintain airflow and fire safety.
lowbeginner
CLEANINGRoutine maintenance to remove lint buildup from the exhaust ducting to prevent fires and improve efficiency.
lowbeginner
CLEANINGRoutine maintenance using a specialized brush tool to remove lint buildup from the exhaust venting system to prevent fires and improve efficiency.
lowbeginner
CLEANINGYour dryer pushes hot, moist air through a duct that exits your home. Every single load deposits lint in that duct. Over time that buildup restricts airflow, traps heat inside the dryer, and makes everything work way harder than it should. This procedure uses a spinning brush to scrape those duct walls clean from the inside.
lowbeginner
CLEANINGLint and debris accumulate inside the exhaust duct over time, restricting airflow. When the duct can't move hot, moist air out fast enough, the dryer runs hotter, takes longer, and the heating element burns out way ahead of schedule. Your lint trap only catches about 75% of what comes off your clothes.
lowbeginner
CLEANINGThe process of removing heavy lint accumulation and obstructions from high-volume commercial exhaust systems to ensure safety and operational efficiency.
lowbeginner
CLEANINGA dryer duct cleaning system is a DIY maintenance kit with connectable flexible rods and a nylon brush head that scrub combustible lint off the interior walls of your exhaust vent. It's not fixing a broken part, it's just clearing out the gunk that builds up over time.
lowbeginner
DRYER-NO-HEATThe motor's getting power and spinning the drum just fine, but the heating circuit is dead somewhere. Could be a blown safety cutoff, a broken coil, a cracked igniter, or a blocked vent that caused something to overheat and fail. The drum keeps spinning because it's on a completely separate circuit from the heater.
highintermediate
F-CodesDryer error codes are diagnostic signals from the control board flagging a failure in the heating, sensing, or airflow systems. Most modern dryers use these codes to protect the machine from overheating or fire hazards when a component's reading falls outside its safe electrical range.
moderateintermediate
F01F01 flags a primary failure inside the main electronic control board. Usually it's a dead relay, a corrupted memory chip, or a broken signal path between the board's internal circuits. Basically the dryer's brain stopped talking to the rest of the machine.
highintermediate
F02The main control board detected a button signal that's been active for more than 30 seconds without a cycle running. It's basically the board saying a key's stuck closed. Could be a real stuck button, a shorted trace on the interface, or a bad connection between the two boards.
moderateintermediate
F70F70 means the main control board sent a signal to the user interface board and got no response, or the UI tried to ping the main board and got nothing back. The communication line between those two components is broken. Could be physical connection or one of the boards actually died.
highintermediate
GAS-VALVE-COILSThe gas valve solenoid coils are basically little electromagnets that physically pull the gas valve open when they get current. When they fail, that valve stays shut even though your igniter is glowing away doing its job. No open valve means no gas, means no flame, means cold wet laundry.
higheasy
HEATING-COILThe heating coil is a resistive wire element that glows red hot to heat the air inside your dryer. When it breaks or shorts out, the dryer will tumble but fail to produce heat.
highintermediate
HEATING-ELEMENTThe heating element is a resistive wire coil that generates heat when electrical current passes through it. A failure means the coil has physically broken or shorted, preventing the dryer from warming the air.
highintermediate
HOW-CLEAN-VENTYour dryer pushes hot moist air out through a duct to the exterior of your house. When lint builds up in that duct, airflow drops, heat builds up inside the drum, and the appliance either trips a thermal fuse or, in the worst case, the lint itself catches fire. This isn't a sensor issue or a mechanical failure. It's just blockage.
moderateintermediate
HOW-RESETA dryer reset clears the non-volatile memory cache on the electronic control board, forcing all sensor inputs to re-initialize from baseline values. On modern inverter-drive units (LG, Samsung), it also resets the motor controller. A power cycle resets both the main board and any secondary control modules simultaneously.
moderatebeginner
LINT-OVERLOADThe dryer's filtration or exhaust system is failing to capture or expel fabric fibers, leading to excessive accumulation on clothes, inside the drum, or within the appliance cabinet.
moderateeasy
NO-HEAT-GENERICThe drum's spinning and the timer's ticking, but the heat circuit's got a break in it somewhere. Either a safety device tripped, the heating coil snapped, or you're not getting full voltage to the machine. The motor runs fine on 120V but the heater needs the full 240 to fire up.
highintermediate
NO-STARTThe dryer's got power to the electronics but something's blocking the signal or breaking the circuit before it ever reaches the drive motor. Could be a safety component that tripped, a mechanical switch that died, or the motor just isn't getting the go-ahead to spin.
highintermediate
NOT-HEATINGThe dryer is completing its mechanical cycle (spinning) but the heating circuit is interrupted, preventing the air from reaching the required temperature to dry clothes.
highintermediate
NOT-SPINNINGThe dryer's drive system took a mechanical hit from the drum getting jammed. When the drum stops but the motor keeps pulling, something snaps or blows. Usually it's the rubber drive belt or the thermal fuse protecting the motor, sometimes both at once.
highintermediate
NOT-TURNINGThe drive system failed. Either the motor isn't getting the signal to run, or the physical connection between the motor and drum snapped or slipped off. The drum just sits there while your wet clothes do nothing and your heat bill goes up.
highintermediate
STOPPED-WORKINGThe dryer's electrical start circuit got interrupted. Something, usually a thermal fuse or door switch, cut power to the motor to prevent the dryer from running under unsafe conditions. It's a built-in protection system, not a random failure.
highintermediate
SYMPTOMDryer drum will not rotate, leaving clothes damp and stationary inside the drum
highintermediate
TIMER-NOT-ADVANCINGThe timer is a mechanical or electronic controller that routes 120 or 240 volts to the motor, heater, and gas valve in sequence. When the internal motor stops turning the gear train, or the contacts burn out, power never gets routed where it needs to go and the whole cycle just falls apart.
highintermediate
TOO-MUCH-LINTExcessive lint piling up inside the drum, on clothing, or leaking from the cabinet. Something's broken in the airflow loop, either the exhaust is restricted or there's a gap somewhere in the system that's letting lint bypass the filter entirely.
highintermediate
VENT-CLEANINGYou're physically scrubbing and pushing built-up lint out of the dryer's exhaust duct, from the exterior cap all the way back through the wall. When that duct's clear, hot moist air can actually escape the way it's supposed to instead of backing up into your machine.
low
VENT-CLEANINGWhen your exhaust duct fills up with lint, your dryer can't push hot humid air out fast enough. The heat has nowhere to go, drying times skyrocket, and the lint itself becomes a fire hazard. This whole process is just blasting that buildup out of the pipe before it causes a real problem.
low
VENT-HOODLint escaping to the outdoors indicates a breach in the dryer's filtration path, typically caused by a failed lint screen, a blocked internal duct, or a broken exterior vent cover flap.
higheasy