Gas Dryer Heating Coil Diagnosis & Replacement Guide
Quick Answer
In a gas dryer, the heating coils are the magnetic switches that open the gas valve to let fuel reach the burner. The most common sign they have failed is a dryer that starts out hot but goes cold after 10 or 15 minutes of operation.
Look, if you ignore this you're basically running your dryer as a very expensive tumble machine. Clothes stay damp, you run cycle after cycle, and your gas bill actually goes UP because the burner's cycling on and off instead of maintaining steady heat. The good news? I've done this repair probably 40 times and it's one of the few jobs where a complete beginner can nail it in under an hour.
These coils typically last about a decade before the internal wiring starts breaking down from heat stress. I replaced three sets just last Tuesday alone, and honestly it's one of my favorite repairs to hand off to homeowners because the parts are cheap and it's hard to mess up. About 20 bucks for a kit, maybe 30 minutes of your time, and you're back in business.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Internal copper winding failure (heat stress)65%
Clogged vent causing coil overheating20%
Electrical surge damage10%
Mechanical valve sticking5%
Symptoms You May Notice
Dryer runs fine but the air coming out the exhaust vent is completely cold, even after 20 minutes on the highest heat setting.
It heats up fine for the first 10 or 15 minutes then the heat just dies and clothes come out damp. This intermittent pattern is the classic coil failure signature.
You can see the igniter glowing bright orange through the observation slot at the bottom of the machine, but no blue flame ever appears behind it.
There's a clicking sound from the burner area as the igniter cycles on and off repeatedly trying to light, but nothing catches.
Clothes take two or three full cycles to dry what normally takes one, and the drum feels barely warm when you crack the door mid-cycle.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverDigital multimeterPutty knife (for popping the toe kick on Whirlpool-platform machines)1/4 inch nut driver5/16 inch nut driverNeedle-nose pliers (for stubborn wire connectors)Work gloves
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range500–1500 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Gas Valve Solenoid Coil Kit279834 · $15–$30
279834
$15 – $30
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace just one coil instead of the pair?
You can, but don't. They're both exposed to the same heat and stress for the same number of years. If one's failed, the other is probably 6 months behind it. You'd be buying a 10-dollar part and doing the exact same disassembly all over again real soon. The kits cost about 18 to 22 bucks total and come with both coils. Just do it right the first time.
Why does my dryer heat at first and then stop?
That's the classic coil failure pattern and I'd bet on it being the coils 80% of the time when I hear that description. Here's what's happening: the copper wire inside the coil has a tiny break in it. When the coil is cold, the wire is slightly contracted and the break is still touching, so it conducts and the valve opens. Once it heats up, that wire expands and the break opens up, killing the magnetic field and snapping the gas valve shut. Dryer goes cold. You open it, it cools down, works again next cycle. Sound familiar?
Are aftermarket gas coils safe to use?
Yeah, for this specific part I'm fine with quality aftermarket coils. It's a simple electromagnetic coil, not a safety-critical part like a thermal fuse or gas pressure regulator. I've used Supplying Demand and Edgewater Parts brands with good results. Just make sure the kit specifies it fits your valve model number. The AP3094251 kit from Supco covers most Whirlpool-platform machines and it's what I grab most of the time.
Do gas dryers have a heating element like electric ones?
Nope. Gas dryers use a completely different heating system: a glow-bar igniter lights the burner, and these solenoid coils control the gas valve. Electric dryers have a nichrome wire heating element, which is a totally different animal and a different repair. The terminology trips people up all the time. If someone calls me saying their gas dryer's heating element is bad, I always clarify which part they actually mean before I show up with the wrong parts.
How do I know if it's the coils versus the igniter that's the problem?
Watch the igniter. If it's glowing orange and cycling on and off but no flame appears, the coils are almost certainly your problem because the igniter's doing its job fine. If there's no glow at all, the igniter is probably bad or there's a power issue upstream. The igniter glows to generate enough heat to trigger the thermal bimetal in the valve system, and the coils are what actually crack the valve open to let the gas in. Different jobs, different failures. Pretty easy to tell them apart once you know what you're looking for.
Models Known to Experience GAS-VALVE-COILS Errors
This repair applies to most Generic dryers with this error code. Common model numbers include: