F2 Meaning on Oven: How to Fix an Over-Temperature Error

Quick Answer

An F2 code means your oven is overheating or thinks it is. Nine times out of ten, this is caused by a welded relay on the control board keeping the heat on or a faulty oven temperature sensor that needs to be replaced.

In my fifteen years of fixing ranges, an F2 is one of the few codes that makes me tell customers to pull the plug immediately. This fires when the oven's internal thermometer hits a dangerous spike. It's usually just a sensor that's gone out of calibration, but it can also mean a relay on the main board has physically melted shut, which is a genuine fire risk if you leave it powered on.

GenericOvenSeverity: criticalDifficulty: intermediate88% DIY Success

Time to Fix

20–90 min

Difficulty

intermediate

Parts Cost

$25 – $350

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, Digital multimeter (auto-ranging is fine)

What Does the F2 Code Mean?

The dead giveaway of a real F2 failure is an oven that keeps getting hotter even after you've hit Cancel. The control board can't cut power to the bake or broil element anymore. Or, if the oven's totally cold but the code pops up right away, the temperature probe has probably died and it's sending a false signal to the processor. Either way, stop using it.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Faulty oven temperature sensor45%

Stuck or welded control board relay40%

Wiring harness short or damage10%

Control board logic failure5%

Symptoms You May Notice

The oven keeps climbing in temperature after you've hit Cancel and it just won't stop, no matter what buttons you press.
F2 flashes on the display with a loud, repeating beep that doesn't quit until you cut the power at the breaker.
The door locks on its own like it's running a self-clean cycle, even though you never started one.
Food coming out burnt or completely charred even when you set the oven to 350, because the real temp inside is way higher.
The oven starts heating the second you flip the breaker back on, before you've touched a single button on the control panel.

Can you reset a Generic oven to clear the F2 code?

First, let the oven cool down completely before you do anything. Then flip the circuit breaker off and leave it for at least 60 seconds. If the code was from a one-time glitch, it'll be gone when you restore power. But if the sensor's failed or a relay is welded shut, that code's coming right back the second power is restored. Resetting doesn't fix the root cause.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverDigital multimeter (auto-ranging is fine)1/4 inch nut driverWork gloves (oven interior edges are sharp)Needle-nose pliers (for connector clips)

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range1050–1100 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD)Generic Universal RTD · $25–$60	Generic Universal RTD	$25 – $60
Electronic Range Control (ERC) BoardManufacturer Specific · $150–$350	Manufacturer Specific	$150 – $350

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I still use my oven if it shows F2?

No. Don't do it. The F2 code is a safety lockout for a good reason. Your oven can't accurately control its own temperature anymore, and if a relay is stuck, it literally won't stop heating. You're risking a kitchen fire or at minimum destroying whatever you're trying to cook. I had a customer ignore this exact warning last year and she ended up with scorched cabinets. Fix the sensor or the board first. I know it's inconvenient but this one's non-negotiable.

Why did the F2 code start during a self-clean cycle?

Self-clean is the most brutal thing you can do to an oven. It runs above 800 degrees for hours, and that extreme heat can cause a relay that was already marginal to finally weld itself shut. Same thing happens to sensors sometimes. I've seen it a ton of times. The last hour of self-clean is when it usually goes because the components have been cooking right along with the oven cavity for three-plus hours at that point.

How do I know if it's the sensor or the control board?

Multimeter test. That's really the only way to know for sure. Disconnect the sensor and check its resistance. Room temp should give you around 1100 ohms. If it's in spec, the sensor's probably fine and you're looking at the board. But here's the real tell: if your oven starts heating the moment you flip the breaker on without you pressing anything, that's a stuck relay on the board. A bad sensor causes a false code, not runaway heating.

Is it worth fixing an F2 code on an older oven?

If it's just the temperature sensor, yes, absolutely. Those parts run $20 to $60 and it's an easy swap. But if the control board is fried, you're looking at $150 to $350 for the part alone, and labor on top of that if you take it to a shop. On an oven that's over ten years old, that math gets tough. Sometimes a new oven with a warranty and better efficiency just makes more sense.

What does a bad oven temperature sensor actually look like when I test it?

Usually one of three things. Either it reads OL on your multimeter, which means open circuit, completely dead. Or it reads way out of range, like 50 ohms or 5000 ohms instead of the expected 1050 to 1100. Or it reads fine at room temp but drifts wildly when you heat it up slightly with a heat gun. That third one's the sneaky one because it passes a cold test and then throws F2 once the oven warms up. If you've got one of those, the sensor still needs to go.

Same Fix on Other Brands

Ge ovenF2: GE Oven F2 Error: Over-Temperature Detected Whirlpool ovenF2: Whirlpool Oven F2 Error: Temperature Sensor Fault

Models Known to Experience F2 Errors

This repair applies to most Generic ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

GE JB645RKSS, GE JB258RMSS, Whirlpool WFE515S0ES, Whirlpool WFE320M0ES, Kenmore 790.92312010, Frigidaire FFEF3054TS, Maytag MER8800FZ, Amana AER6303MFS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026