Warning: Disconnect power before servicing.

Oven Not Heating: Fix Bake Elements and Igniters

Quick Answer

If your oven isn't heating, first check if the bake element is glowing red or if the gas igniter is sparking. Most heating issues stem from a burnt-out element or a weak igniter that can't quite open the gas valve. Using a multimeter to check for continuity is the fastest way to confirm a dead part.

Look, if you're ignoring this one, don't. An oven that won't heat usually gets worse, and a dying igniter slowly releasing gas is genuinely dangerous. When I show up to these calls, nine out of ten times it's a $40 part that someone's been babying for weeks, hoping it'll sort itself out. It won't. The longer a weak igniter keeps cycling and failing to light, the more it stresses the gas valve too.

GenericOvenSeverity: highDifficulty: intermediate85% DIY Success
Time to Fix
20–90 min
Difficulty
intermediate
Parts Cost
$25 – $80
Tools Needed
Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver

Oven Not Heating: Fix Bake Elements and Igniters

Honestly, this is probably the most common service call I get. Replacing a bake element or igniter is way easier than people think. Most elements are two screws and two wire connectors. You're probably looking at $25-80 in parts and maybe 45 minutes, versus $200+ for a service call. The real skill here is just figuring out which part is actually dead before you order anything.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Burnt out bake or broil heating element40%
Weak or cracked gas igniter30%
Blown thermal fuse from overheating15%
Failed oven control board relay10%
Temperature sensor out of calibration5%

Symptoms You May Notice

  • The display counts down preheat just fine but the oven cavity is completely cold after 20+ minutes, no warmth at all.
  • Broiler kicks on and works fine but switch to Bake and nothing happens, not even a little warmth.
  • There's a faint clicking every few seconds from the bottom of a gas oven but zero flame, sometimes with a slight gas smell if you lean in.
  • You can see an actual burn hole or a black scorch mark on the bake element coil when you look inside.
  • Oven takes 45+ minutes to hit 350° and then can't hold the temperature, cycling way down between heats.

Can you reset a Generic oven to clear the NOT-HEATING code?

There's no magic reset for a dead element or igniter, but you can power cycle the control board. Flip the circuit breaker off for a full 60 seconds, not just a few, then flip it back on. Sometimes a glitched relay just needs a hard reset to stop falsely cutting power to the burners. If the oven comes back after that, watch it closely because the board might still be on its way out.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverMultimeter (set to ohms/continuity mode)Non-contact voltage testerWork glovesNeedle-nose pliersFlashlight or headlampTorx T20 screwdriver (some panel configurations)

Service / Diagnostic Mode

On most modern digital ovens, press and hold the 'Cancel' and 'Start' buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds to enter the error code history mode.

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range101100 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name
Bake Heating ElementGeneric-240V-Bake · $25–$65
Flat Style Gas IgniterUniversal-Igniter-Kit · $30–$80

Frequently Asked Questions

Can kitchen stove accessories cause an oven not to heat?
Yeah, and this one surprises people. Silicone oven liners are the big culprit. I've pulled them out of ovens where they basically melted onto the element because someone left them in during a self-clean cycle. Heavy foil is another one, especially if it covers the bottom vents. When airflow gets blocked, the oven can't dissipate heat properly and the thermal fuse trips. Pulled one out last month where the foil had been there so long it fused to the floor. Just don't use those liners, honestly. They cause more problems than they prevent.
How much does it cost to replace an oven bake element?
DIY it and you're looking at $25-60 for the part depending on your brand. Maybe 30-45 minutes of your time. That's it. A service call is going to run you $150-250 total when you factor in the trip fee and labor. And honestly, swapping an element is one of the easiest repairs on an oven. Two screws, two wire connectors, done. Look up your model number on the back of the range, order the exact replacement part, and watch a quick video first if you want to feel confident.
Why does my gas oven smell like gas but won't light?
That's a failing igniter and you should deal with it today. What's happening is the igniter is warm enough to crack the safety valve slightly, letting a little gas through, but it's not hot enough to actually ignite it or fully open the valve for a real flame. So you're getting small amounts of raw gas going into your kitchen. Shut the gas off at the supply valve on the back of the range right now. Order a new igniter, they're usually $30-60, and get it swapped out. Don't keep cycling it hoping it'll eventually light.
Is it worth fixing an oven that's 10 years old?
Absolutely. Ovens aren't like phones, they don't get outdated. A solid range from 2015 cooks food exactly the same as a new one. If the cavity's in good shape and you're just dealing with a dead element or igniter, you're spending $40-60 to get years more life out of an $800-1,200 appliance. The math isn't close. Unless multiple major things are failing at once, fix it. I tell people this all the time and they're always glad they listened.
What if both bake AND broil stop working at the same time?
That's almost never a coincidence. When both elements die simultaneously, something cut power upstream of both circuits. Start with the thermal fuse because it's literally upstream of everything and it's a $10 fix. Check it first. If the fuse is fine, you're probably looking at a failed relay on the control board, which can run $150-300 for the board itself. At that point, get your model number, price out the replacement board, and decide whether fixing it makes sense versus putting that money toward a new range.

Same Fix on Other Brands

Models Known to Experience NOT-HEATING Errors

This repair applies to most Generic ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

GE JB645RKSS, Whirlpool WFE505W0BS, Samsung NE59R4321SS, LG LRE3061ST, Frigidaire FFEF3054TS, GE Profile PGS930SELSS, Whirlpool WFG320M0BS, Maytag MER8800FZ

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Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on May 20, 2024