Washer Not Spinning or Draining
Quick Answer
A clogged drain pump filter is the most likely reason your washer will not spin or drain. The pump must clear the water before the control board allows spin. Clean the filter first; if that does not fix it, check the lid switch on top-loaders or the door latch on front-loaders.
When a washer will not spin AND will not drain at the same time, the root cause is usually a single component that both functions depend on. A clogged drain pump filter is the number one culprit because the pump handles draining and must finish draining before the control board allows the high-speed spin cycle to start. A broken lid switch is the second most common cause on top-load machines, since the washer will not spin or drain with the lid open or with a failed switch.
What Does the SYMPTOM Code Mean?
Spin and drain are linked in most washer designs. The drain pump removes water first, and the control board only initiates the spin cycle once the water level sensor confirms the tub is empty. So a clogged pump blocks drain, which in turn prevents spin. On top-load machines, the lid switch acts as a safety interlock: if it fails or its wiring breaks, the washer stops both draining and spinning. Less commonly, a failed drive motor or worn clutch assembly (on belt-driven top-loaders) can cause both symptoms at once.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Symptoms You May Notice
- Washer fills and agitates but will not drain or spin
- Standing water remains in the drum after the cycle ends
- Clothes come out soaking wet and heavy
- Humming sound from the pump area but no water flow
Can you reset a Generic washer to clear the SYMPTOM code?
Unplug the washer for 60 seconds and plug it back in. Select a drain-and-spin only cycle and press Start. If the washer drains but does not spin (or vice versa), the two symptoms have separate causes and you should diagnose each independently.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
Clean the drain pump filter
On front-load washers, the filter is behind a small access panel on the lower front, usually on the right side. Place towels and a shallow pan underneath, open the panel, pull out the emergency drain hose and remove its cap to drain residual water. Then twist the filter counter-clockwise and pull it out. Check for coins, buttons, hair ties, or lint clumps clogging the impeller. Rinse the filter under running water and reinstall it. On top-load machines without a front access panel, you may need to tilt the machine back and access the pump from underneath.
Test the lid switch (top-load) or door latch (front-load)
Check the motor coupling or drive belt
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
| Part Name | OEM Number | Estimated Price |
|---|---|---|
| Lid Switch Assembly (top-load)W10838613 · $15–$35 | W10838613 | $15 – $35 |
| Motor Coupling Kit285753A · $8–$18 | 285753A | $8 – $18 |
| Drain Pump Motor AssemblyW10130913 · $25–$45 | W10130913 | $25 – $45 |
Repair vs. Replace Calculator
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my washer hum but not drain?
Can a broken lid switch cause both no-spin and no-drain?
My washer drains but will not spin. Is it the same problem?
Last verified for technical accuracy on March 16, 2026