Kenmore Washer Model 110: Parts & Lookup Guide
Quick Answer
To find parts for a Kenmore 110 washer, look for the model number sticker under the lid or on the back of the console. The 110 prefix means your washer was manufactured by Whirlpool, making parts widely available and easy to cross-reference.
Here's what I tell every customer who calls me panicking about a Kenmore washer repair: that model number isn't just a label, it's the difference between getting the right part and wasting $40 on something that won't bolt up. The digits after that 110 prefix tell you exactly which mechanical platform you've got, and there are several different ones. Get those numbers wrong and you'll end up with a drive coupling that's 2mm off or a control board that just won't pair.
Kenmore Washer Model 110: Parts & Lookup Guide
OK so here's the deal with Kenmore 110 washers. Sears never actually manufactured anything, they just put their name on machines built by other companies. The 110 prefix tells you Whirlpool built yours, which is honestly great news because Whirlpool made a ridiculous number of these things over the decades. Parts are cheap, available pretty much everywhere, and a lot of local shops keep them on the shelf. Just don't stop at '110', because you absolutely need those extra digits to get the right stuff.
Common Causes
- The lid switch gave out and now the washer won't spin, which is probably the single most common repair call I get on 110 series top loaders. Simple fix, $15-25 part.
- Drive coupling cracked after years of overloading, leaving the drum sitting there while the motor hums away, going nowhere.
- The pump seized up or the impeller cracked, so water just sits in the tub after the cycle ends and won't go anywhere.
- Control board or timer assembly fried after a power surge, and now the cycle selection is completely unpredictable or stuck on one setting permanently.
- Worn or broken drive belt on the older belt-drive 110 models. It's basically a $12 part and a 20-minute job if you catch it before the belt shreds itself into the tub.
- Water inlet valve clogged or failed so the machine won't fill at all, or fills so slowly that cycles take forever.
Symptoms You May Notice
- Washer fills and agitates fine but then just sits there humming when it should be spinning, which almost always points to the lid switch or drive coupling.
- Water won't drain out of the tub after the cycle ends. Just sitting there.
- A loud grinding or clunking during agitation that definitely wasn't there six months ago.
- Cycle knob turns but nothing happens, or the machine stops mid-cycle and refuses to continue.
- Water on the floor around the machine after every load, even small ones.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
Did the fix not work?
If the problem comes back after following these steps, a component has permanently failed and needs replacement. Check the specific error code your washer is showing:
Frequently Asked Questions
What does the 110 prefix mean on a Kenmore washer?
Where is the best place to find Kenmore 110 replacement parts?
Can I use the model number on the manual to buy parts?
Are all Kenmore 110 washers the same inside?
My model number sticker is worn off. What can I do?
How do I know if my Kenmore 110 is a direct-drive or the newer VMW version?
Related Kenmore Washer Error Codes
Models Known to Experience MODEL-110-GUIDE Errors
This repair applies to most Kenmore washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:
110.25132411, 110.22352510, 110.20222510, 110.21302013, 110.26002012, 110.28002012, 110.92573210
Last verified for technical accuracy on May 10, 2025