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ErrBase

Kenmore Error Codes

Find troubleshooting guides for all Kenmore error codes.

130 error codes across 7 appliance types

Dishwasher

View all 18 codes →
CodeMeaning
1-1The pilot relay on the control board is stuck in the 'on' position and won't release. That relay's job is to cut power to the heating element when the cycle's done, and when it fails closed, the board detects it's out of control and shuts everything down for safety.
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7-1The control board monitors water temp during the heated wash. When the thermistor doesn't report a fast enough temperature rise, the board cuts power to the heater and throws 7-1. Basically the machine's way of saying the water never got hot enough to actually clean anything.
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7-1The control board monitors water temperature through the cycle. When it doesn't detect a temperature rise within its programmed window, it trips the 7-1 fault and shuts down. Something in that heating loop is broken, open, or not getting power to do its job.
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CLEAN-LIGHT-FLASHINGYour control board monitors water temperature during the wash cycle and expects to see it climb at least a couple degrees. When the temp doesn't budge, the board flags a heating failure and locks itself out. That flashing clean light is basically the machine saying it tried to heat the water and nothing happened.
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HOW-TO-OPERATEBasic operational instructions and best practices for running a Kenmore dishwasher efficiently.
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MODEL-587-GUIDEThe 587 prefix identifies this dishwasher as being manufactured by Frigidaire for the Kenmore brand.
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MODEL-665-DIMENSIONSThe 665 prefix in a Kenmore model number identifies the unit as being manufactured by Whirlpool. This series follows standard US appliance dimensions, typically requiring a 24-inch wide cabinetry opening.
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MODEL-665-GUIDEThe 665 is Whirlpool's manufacturer code for Kenmore-branded dishwashers. Sears had Whirlpool build them and put the Kenmore name on the front. So when you're looking up parts or a service manual, you're really hunting for a Whirlpool dishwasher, not a Kenmore.
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MODEL-665-LOOKUPBasically a how-to for finding your model number sticker and using it to pull up the right parts diagram. Once you've got that number, you can find exploded views of every component inside your machine, down to the smallest O-ring and clip.
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MODEL-665-SERIESThe 665 prefix is Whirlpool's internal OEM code for machines they built under the Kenmore label. So when you're looking up parts, you're essentially shopping for a Whirlpool. The digits after 665 lock in the exact model year and feature package.
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MODEL-KENMORE-LOOKUPA professional guide to locating and decoding Kenmore dishwasher model and serial numbers to identify the original manufacturer and source correct parts.
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NORMAL-LIGHT-BLINKThe board detected a keypad button that's been in the closed position too long, either a physically stuck key or a short in the circuit. It can also fire when communication between the touchpad and main control board breaks down, or if the heater circuit fails on certain models.
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NOT-CLEANINGThe dishwasher is failing to circulate water effectively, heat the water, or properly distribute detergent, leaving dishes dirty or grimy.
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NOT-CLEANINGThe machine's running a full cycle but the mechanical action of the water jets and the chemical action of the detergent aren't working together. Either there's not enough water pressure, the water's not hot enough, or debris is blocking flow to the pump. Dishes come out looking like they went through a warm rain.
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NOT-DRAININGThe dishwasher isn't completing its drain cycle, so water sits in the sump at the end of the wash. Could be a physical blockage anywhere from the filter screen all the way to where the hose connects at the garbage disposal or sink drain.
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NOT-DRYINGDuring the dry cycle, your dishwasher's supposed to heat up the air inside the tub to evaporate moisture off the dishes. When the heating element doesn't fire, the vent doesn't open, or the rinse aid chemistry isn't there to help water sheet off, you're gonna open that door to a rack full of wet dishes.
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NOT-STARTING'Not Starting' on a Kenmore 665 basically means there's a break in the electrical path the machine needs to kick on the wash motor. It's almost always a safety component like the thermal fuse reading open circuit, or a door switch that's not confirming the door is actually shut.
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WONT-STARTYour dishwasher runs through a safety chain before it'll fill with water. Door latch closed? Control board powered? Thermal fuse intact? If any one of those checks fails, the machine just sits there doing nothing. It's not broken broken, it's stuck at the gate. Which link broke is the whole question.
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Dryer

View all 10 codes →
CodeMeaning
DRUM-STALLThe drum's getting power to the motor but something in the chain between the motor and the drum has failed. Either a mechanical part snapped or a safety component cut the circuit. Timer's running, heat might be on, but nothing's turning.
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DRYER-NO-SPIN-HEATThe motor's running fine and the heater's working, but the rubber belt that wraps around the drum and connects everything to the motor has snapped. So the drum just sits there while hot air blows past stationary clothes. Purely mechanical, not electrical.
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F01The F01 code means the main electronic control board detected an internal checksum error or a failed relay on its own circuit. The dryer's brain basically failed a self-test and it won't run the motor or heater until that gets resolved.
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F31F31 means the control board checked the incoming power and found the L2 voltage leg is missing or too low. Your dryer needs two separate 120V legs adding up to 240V total. Without L2, the heating element circuit is dead. The board throws F31 to tell you it's a power supply problem, not a heater or sensor problem inside the machine.
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F40F40 fires when the main control board sends a signal to the motor control board and gets nothing back. Basically the two brains in your dryer stopped talking. Could be the wire between them, could be one of the boards itself, but that's the conversation that broke down.
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HUBKenmore doesn't manufacture dryers. They're either built by LG (model prefix 796) or Whirlpool (model prefix 110). When a fault fires, the internal logic, sensor specs, and part numbers are completely different depending on which company actually assembled your machine.
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MODEL-110-GUIDEThe 110 prefix is a manufacturer source code that tells you Whirlpool built this dryer for the Kenmore brand. So internally, it's basically a Whirlpool. Same components, same wiring, same everything. That's actually really useful because Whirlpool is one of the most well-documented appliance platforms on the planet.
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NOISEThe dryer's drum is supported by rollers, front glides, a rear bearing, and a tensioned belt. When any of those wear out, the friction or imbalance creates noise during tumbling. The specific sound, squeak vs. thump vs. grind, points directly to which component is failing.
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NOT-HEATINGYour dryer's heating circuit has multiple safety components that cut power to the heat source when temps spike too high. When one fails or trips permanently, you get tumbling with zero heat. Electric dryers usually lose the element or thermal fuse. Gas dryers lose the igniter or valve solenoids. Either way, the drum spins fine but nothing actually dries.
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NOT-SPINNINGThe dryer's drum is not rotating during the cycle. This can be caused by a mechanical break in the drive system or an electrical safety component preventing the motor from engaging.
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Oven

View all 23 codes →
CodeMeaning
BURNER-FAILThe 240V circuit feeding your burner got broken somewhere along the line. The heating coil's internal wire snapped, the receptacle terminals burnt out, or the infinite switch stopped sending voltage through. Everything else on your stove is fine. It's just that one circuit with a break in it.
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BURNER-NOT-HEATINGBasically, something broke the circuit that sends 240 volts to that radiant ribbon. Either the ribbon itself snapped, the switch stopped passing current, or a terminal melted and lost contact. The cooktop's brain thinks everything's fine, but the power's not actually making it to the burner.
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CLEANINGThe self-clean cycle is basically a controlled burn inside your oven. It cranks the temperature up to around 800 degrees Fahrenheit, hot enough to turn pretty much any food residue into a fine white ash that you can just wipe out with a damp cloth.
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CLEANINGRoutine maintenance and deep cleaning procedures for Kenmore electric and gas ovens, including self-clean and manual methods.
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CLEANINGPyrolytic cleaning cranks the oven to around 800 to 900 degrees Fahrenheit, way past anything you'd cook at. At those temps, grease and food residue literally incinerate and turn to ash. That fine white powder you wipe out afterward? That's everything that was baked onto the walls and floor, just carbonized.
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F1F1 means the Electronic Range Control detected either a runaway temperature condition or an internal logic failure it can't recover from on its own. Basically the oven's main computer is saying it can't trust what it's seeing, so it locked itself out to keep you safe.
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F1The F1 code means the Electronic Range Control detected a logic fault or a stuck relay in the heating circuit. Basically the board tried to check itself and got an answer it didn't expect, so it threw up the code and started beeping at you.
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F10The RTD sensor sends resistance values to the control board to report oven temperature. When those values go way outside the normal range, either from a sensor failure or a stuck relay keeping the element on, the board triggers F10 as a runaway temperature protection fault.
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F11F11 means the control board detected a button that's been pressed for over 30 seconds straight. Could be a genuinely stuck key, a short in the membrane layer, or a failing control board that's reading false signals. Either way, the board shuts everything down to prevent runaway heating.
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F11The F11 code means your oven thinks a button is stuck. The Electronic Oven Control (EOC) watches for touchpad signals, and if it sees any button held for more than 30 seconds, it triggers a safety shutdown to keep the oven from running when nobody told it to.
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F2F2 means the board detected the oven temp went over the safe limit, usually somewhere above 600°F during a normal cook cycle. Either the oven actually got that hot because a relay stuck on, or the sensor's sending garbage readings that make the board think it did.
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F2F2 means the oven's internal temperature blew past the maximum safe threshold during a cooking or broil cycle. The board's basically saying it can't control the heat anymore. It's similar to F10 on some platforms but can trigger at a slightly lower threshold depending on which manufacturer actually built your Kenmore.
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F30F30 means the control board sees an open circuit where the temperature sensor should be. Basically the sensor's internal resistance has gone infinite, which tells the board the probe is broken or disconnected. No sensor reading means no heating, period.
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F30The control board's polling the lower cavity sensor for a resistance reading and getting nothing back. That's an open circuit. The sensor's basically a resistor that changes value with temperature. When it reads 'OL' on your meter instead of around 1,100 ohms, it's dead and the board knows it.
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HEATING-FAILUREThere's an open somewhere in the bread machine's heating circuit. Either the element cracked internally from years of thermal cycling, a safety fuse blew to prevent a meltdown, or the relay on the control board stopped sending current to the heater loop. The machine doesn't know which one it is. It just knows it can't get hot.
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KENMORE-790-REPAIRThe 790 series is Kenmore's Frigidaire-built freestanding range line. When these fail, it's almost always the bake element, the RTD temperature sensor, or the electronic oven control board that handles all the relay logic for heat cycles. Same chassis as a bunch of Frigidaire and Electrolux ranges, which is actually great news for parts availability.
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MODEL-790-GUIDEThe 790 prefix is Sears' internal manufacturer code pointing to Frigidaire, which is owned by Electrolux. Your oven physically came off a Frigidaire assembly line with a Kenmore badge on it. That's actually a good thing for you.
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MODEL-KENMORE-GAS-RANGEKenmore doesn't build its own gas ranges. The model number on the sticker decodes which actual manufacturer made your stove, which determines which parts diagram applies and which replacement components will physically fit your unit.
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MODEL-KENMORE-STOVEThe model number is an 11-digit code formatted like 790.12345678. The first three digits before the decimal identify which company actually built the stove for Sears. Everything after the decimal identifies the exact production series, feature set, and compatible replacement parts for your unit.
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MODEL-LOOKUPThis guide helps owners locate their Kenmore oven's model number and decode the manufacturer prefix to find the correct parts diagrams.
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NOT-HEATINGThe oven's heating circuit has failed to reach or maintain the set temperature. In electric models this means the bake element, broil element, or their control circuit is open. In gas models it means insufficient current is flowing through the igniter to open the gas safety valve. The oven control board monitors the temperature sensor and cuts power or signals an error when the cavity temperature does not rise within a set window after a heat call.
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NOT-MIXINGThe drive system can't transfer power from the motor to the kneading paddle. Usually it's a snapped or stretched rubber belt, but sometimes the pan bearing seizes up from water damage. Either way, the motor's spinning but nothing's actually moving your dough.
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WONT-STARTThe oven isn't initiating a heat cycle. Could be a software lockout, a power delivery problem at the breaker, or a safety component like a thermal fuse that's cut power to prevent overheating. Basically the oven's telling you it can't run right now, but it's not always telling you exactly why.
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Refrigerator

View all 22 codes →
CodeMeaning
ER 1FER 1F on a Kenmore 795 refrigerator means the freezer compartment defrost temperature sensor is out of range or has an open/short circuit. This is the same code as LG 1F and affects the same component.
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ER RFER RF means the main control board is getting a signal from the fresh food compartment temperature sensor that's either way out of range, showing a dead short, or an open circuit. Basically the board looked at that sensor reading and said 'that number makes no sense' and threw up the error to protect itself.
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Er FFThe control board expects the freezer fan to send back a speed signal while it's running. When that signal disappears or never shows up, it throws Er FF to protect the compressor from running without airflow. The fan's either frozen solid, seized up, or the motor windings have burned through.
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Er IFEr IF means the control board sent a signal to spin the ice compartment fan and didn't get the right feedback back. Either the fan's frozen solid, the motor windings are dead, or the signal from the board never made it to the motor. Usually it's the first one.
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Er dHThe Er dH code indicates a Defrost Heater error. It occurs when the control board initiates a defrost cycle but the defrost thermistor fails to detect a temperature rise above 46 degrees Fahrenheit within one hour.
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HIGH-TEMP-ALARMThe high temp alarm fires when the freezer thermistor holds a reading above roughly 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit for more than a few minutes. Cold air isn't circulating right, the compressor can't keep up, or warm air's sneaking in somewhere. The board catches it and screams at you before your food actually thaws.
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HUBKenmore 795 series refrigerators are manufactured on the LG platform and use the same error code system as LG refrigerators. Codes appear on the front display and indicate sensor failures, fan issues, and communication faults.
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KEN-COMP-FAILThe compressor is the heart of your refrigerator's cooling system. When it fails to run, the sealed system cannot circulate refrigerant, leading to a total loss of cooling in both the freezer and fresh food sections even if the lights and fans are still working.
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KEN-FREEZER-RESETA Kenmore freezer reset refers to the process of clearing error codes, restarting the control board, or reinitializing the ice maker system when cooling or ice production fails.
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KENMORE-REF-IDThe model and serial number are the unique identifiers for your specific refrigerator. That three-digit prefix before the period is the manufacturer code, basically a shorthand for which company actually built the unit. Without it, you can't reliably find parts, manuals, or service bulletins for your machine.
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MODEL-106-GUIDEThe 106 prefix is basically Kenmore's manufacturer code for Whirlpool. They built these units on Whirlpool platforms and put the Kenmore Coldspot badge on them. So when you're searching for parts or a service manual, Whirlpool is your real starting point.
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MODEL-596-LOOKUPThe 596 prefix is a manufacturer code Sears assigned to identify Amana-built units. It's your primary identifier for Kenmore's bottom-mount refrigerator line, and it tells any parts database exactly which chassis you've got under that Kenmore badge.
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MODEL-795-LOOKUPThe 795 prefix tells you LG built this fridge for Sears/Kenmore. It's not just a style code, it's a manufacturing origin code that changes everything about how you source parts, run diagnostics, and look up error codes on these units.
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MODEL-795-SPECSThe 795 prefix is LG's manufacturer code, telling you this Kenmore was built in an LG factory. Same compressor, same board, same everything. Just a different name on the door. It's the most important three digits on that whole label when you're trying to source anything.
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MODEL-KEN-SBS-DIAGRAMThis refers to the exploded-view drawings and part listings used to identify and order the correct replacement components for Kenmore side-by-side refrigerators, organized by the underlying manufacturer who actually built the unit.
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MODEL-KENMORE-REF-LOOKUPThis guide walks you through finding your Kenmore refrigerator's model number and decoding the manufacturer prefix so you can pull up the right parts diagram. Without the prefix, you're basically guessing what's inside.
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MODEL-REFRIGERATOR-LOOKUPKenmore model numbers encode the actual manufacturer inside the Sears branding. The first three digits before the decimal are the manufacturer code. The digits after identify the exact model configuration, and the last few characters usually indicate color and production run. Without this prefix you're basically guessing on every part you try to order.
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NOT-COOLINGThe fridge can't hold its set temperature in the fresh food section, the freezer, or both. Something's broken in the cooling cycle itself or the airflow system that moves cold air around, and the compressor is either working overtime or not running at all.
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NOT-COOLINGThe fridge can't maintain safe temps because something's blocking heat from escaping or stopping airflow from circulating. Could be clogged coils preventing heat exchange, a dead fan cutting off air circulation, or a failed start relay that won't let the compressor kick on.
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SYMPTOM-FREEZER-ONLYThe compressor and freezer coils are doing their job fine, but cold air isn't making it to the fresh food side. Something's either blocking the airflow path or the fan that pushes air between the two compartments has failed.
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TEMP-CONTROL-FAULTThe refrigerator is failing to maintain the set temperature, either getting too warm or freezing food in the fresh food section, often due to a communication breakdown between sensors and the control board.
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WARM-FRIDGE-COLD-FREEZERYour fridge doesn't have its own cooling coils. All the cold starts at the evaporator in the freezer, and a fan blows it through a duct into the fridge. When the evaporator fan quits, the defrost heater fails and lets ice choke the coils, or the damper door sticks shut, cold air just stops reaching the fresh food section entirely. Freezer stays fine because that's where the coils actually live.
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Vacuum

View all 8 codes →
CodeMeaning
Low suction in a Kenmore vacuum typically indicates a physical airflow restriction, saturated filtration, or a breach in the vacuum seal between the floor nozzle and the motor.
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BRUSH-STUCKThe brush roll stopped rotating because something's physically blocking it, the thermal overload switch tripped to protect the motor from overheating, or the rubber drive belt that connects the motor shaft to the brush is snapped or stretched out so far it can't grip.
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MODEL-LOOKUPA guide to locating the model number and understanding the model series for Kenmore canister vacuums to ensure correct parts ordering.
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NO-AGITATIONThe motorized brush roll in the power nozzle isn't spinning, so the vacuum can't agitate carpet fibers to pull dirt loose. Suction at the hose might still be totally fine, but you're basically just hovering over the carpet at that point.
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NO-BRUSH-ROTATIONThe brush roll in the motorized floor head has stopped rotating. Either the overload protector tripped due to mechanical resistance, the drive belt snapped, or the electrical path between the handle and nozzle got interrupted. The motor itself is probably fine.
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NOT-SPINNINGThe brush roll isn't getting power, or something's physically stopping it from turning. Either the safety circuit tripped to protect the motor from overheating during a jam, the belt snapped, or the nozzle motor itself gave out. All three feel identical from the outside, which is why you gotta work through the steps.
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NOT-SUCKINGBasically the vacuum's trying to pull air through a path that's partially or fully blocked. Either something physical is stuck somewhere in the flow (hose, elbow, bag chamber), the filters are so clogged air can't pass through them, or there's a gap in the sealed system letting air bypass the suction path entirely.
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NOT-SUCTIONINGThe motor's running fine but air can't flow through it properly. Something's blocking the path from the floor to the exhaust, whether that's a stuffed bag, a saturated filter, or an actual physical object wedged in the hose. No airflow means no suction, and the motor starts cooking itself trying to compensate.
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Washer

View all 44 codes →
CodeMeaning
417-REPAIR-PARTSThe 417 prefix means Frigidaire built this machine for Sears to sell under the Kenmore name. To get the right parts, you need to match the full model suffix to the correct Frigidaire or Electrolux component, since they made these things across several decades with internal changes along the way.
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5dThe washer's pressure sensor or optical sensor has detected excessive foam in the drum. The wash cycle pauses automatically to allow the suds to dissipate before resuming, to protect the pump and prevent suds from overflowing.
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795-PARTS-IDThe 795 prefix tells you this is an LG-built Kenmore front-loader. When it breaks down, you're cross-referencing a Sears catalog number against LG's internal part numbering. Get both numbers right and the repair's actually pretty straightforward.
moderate
BANGING-SPINThe tub's swinging outside its normal range and hitting the cabinet walls. That happens when the four suspension rods or shocks that hold the tub lose their dampening ability and can't keep up with the centrifugal force at high RPM. Basically the tub's got nothing holding it in place anymore.
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CLEANINGThis is routine maintenance, not an error code. You're triggering a process to strip out biofilm, mold spores, detergent residue, and hard water scale that accumulates inside the drum, hoses, and seals during normal use. The machine doesn't necessarily tell you when to do it, which is the whole problem.
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CLEANINGThis is a routine maintenance procedure that removes detergent residue, biofilm, and mold spores from the internal drum and outer tub. Basically your machine is telling you it needs a bath of its own.
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DONE-SYMPTOMThe control board ran its startup self-check, got a bad response from the lid lock or shift actuator, and aborted the cycle. It's defaulting to Done instead of displaying a specific fault code. The machine's not broken beyond repair, it's just telling you something failed the initial handshake.
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DOOR-LOCK-FAILKenmore washer door lock problems occur when the mechanical latch or electrical solenoid fails to engage, preventing the control board from initiating the wash or spin cycles for safety. This usually indicates a broken plastic strike, a burnt-out wax motor, or a faulty communication signal to the main computer.
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ELITE-HUBKenmore Elite washers fire these codes when the control board detects a failure it can't recover from on its own. F21 means the Whirlpool-built version couldn't drain in time. LE means the LG-built motor locked up. OE is the LG drain error. F5E2 means the door lock didn't confirm closed before the cycle tried to start.
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F02F02 means the washer's drain cycle ran longer than 8 minutes without the pressure switch resetting to empty. The control board cuts the cycle and throws the code to protect the pump motor from burning out against a blockage.
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F1F1 means the main control board has either failed internally or can't get a valid signal from the water level pressure sensor circuit. The board doesn't know how much water's in the tub, so it kills everything rather than guess wrong.
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F21The washer control board has detected a long drain condition, meaning the water is not exiting the tub within the allotted eight minute timeframe.
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F29The F29 error code on a Kenmore washer indicates a door lock failure. This happens when the Central Control Unit (CCU) attempts to lock the door three times and fails to receive the 'Locked' signal from the door switch assembly.
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F5 E1F5 E1 means the control board sent the command to lock the lid but never got confirmation that it actually locked. Could be the lock itself, the wiring, or occasionally the board just glitched out and needs a reset.
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F5 E2The main control board has detected that the lid lock assembly is not engaging properly or the lock switch is failing to communicate its status. This prevents the washer from starting any cycle for safety reasons.
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F50F50 means the control board sent a signal to spin the motor but got zero confirmation back from the Rotor Position Sensor. Think of it like your car's speedometer going dead while the engine's still running fine. The motor might actually be OK, but the board has no idea what's happening and shuts everything down.
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F51The F51 error code indicates a failure with the Rotor Position Sensor (RPS). This sensor tells the main control board how fast the motor is spinning and in which direction. When the signal is lost, the washer shuts down to prevent motor damage.
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F52The Motor Control Unit expected to see a zero-speed signal from the motor's tachometer within a set timeframe after the spin cycle ended. It didn't get that signal, so it shut everything down. Basically the controller can't confirm the drum stopped, and it's not going to guess.
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FDLFDL stands for Door Lock Failure. The Central Control Unit tried to engage the door lock six times in a row and never got the confirmation signal back. That signal tells the CCU it's safe to let water in. No signal, no cycle. Pretty simple self-protection logic, actually.
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HE3-NO-SPINThe control board has decided conditions aren't safe enough to spin. It's either sensing water still in the tub, can't confirm the door is locked, or lost communication with the drive motor. The board just sits there waiting for a green light it's never going to get.
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HOW-TO-STARTOperational guide for initiating wash cycles on Kenmore top-load and front-load machines.
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HOW-TO-USEUsage guide for Kenmore front-load and top-load washers. Covers which detergent to use and how much, how full to load the drum, which cycle to pick for different fabric types, and how to keep the tub clean so you don't end up with mildew smell and error codes.
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HUBReference guide covering Kenmore washer fault codes across all series. The 100 and 200 series use the Whirlpool/Maytag platform. The 400 and 500 series use the LG platform. Error codes differ between platforms.
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LDLD stands for Long Drain. Your washer's control board is basically a timer, and it expects all the water gone within about five to eight minutes. If the pressure switch never sends the 'tub is empty' signal back to the board, LD fires and shuts the whole cycle down.
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LDThe Kenmore Oasis displays LD when it takes longer than 8-10 minutes to empty the tub. The pressure switch basically tattles on the pump, reporting that water's still present past the timeout. It's usually a physical blockage or a dead pump motor, occasionally a failed control board relay.
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LEThe motor stalled or can't rotate under load. The control board detected excessive current draw, meaning the motor's struggling or completely stopped, and cut the cycle to prevent it from burning out.
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MODEL-110-GUIDEThe 110 is Sears' internal manufacturer code for Whirlpool-built machines. When you see it, you know the motor, transmission, and electrical platform all came out of a Whirlpool factory. That unlocks a huge cross-reference catalog of parts that work across Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, and Roper washers from the same era.
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MODEL-600-SERIESThis isn't really an error code. It's a guide to figuring out which exact Kenmore 600 series machine you've got. The 600 series covers a ton of models over a lot of years, and that three-digit prefix tells you who built it and which parts platform it's running on.
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MODEL-KENMORE-LOOKUPThe model number on a Kenmore washer identifies which company actually manufactured it and which exact parts list applies to your machine. Without it, you can't reliably order the right components because Kenmore itself doesn't make anything.
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MODEL-KENMORE-WASHER-LOOKUPKenmore uses a model number prefix system where the first three digits before the decimal point identify which company actually manufactured the machine. Each manufacturer uses completely different internal parts, so a drain pump from a 110 series won't fit a 796 series, even though both say Kenmore on the door.
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MODEL-LOOKUPThis guide helps you find your specific model number and decode the manufacturer prefix so you can pull up the correct parts diagram for your Kenmore Elite top load washer. Kenmore's a house brand, not a manufacturer, so that prefix tells you who actually built your machine.
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NOT-DRAININGThe washer ran its drain cycle and the pump either couldn't move water or didn't get a signal to try. Could be a physical blockage in the filter or impeller, a kinked hose creating back-pressure, or the pump motor failing outright. The machine stops to protect itself from flooding your floor or burning out the pump.
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NOT-SPINNINGThe drum stops transferring rotation during the spin cycle, leaving clothes soaked. Either a mechanical link between the motor and drum has failed, a safety switch is blocking the cycle from starting, or the control board thinks something's wrong and shuts down spin before it ever begins.
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OASIS-NO-SPINWhen the Oasis won't spin, it means either the mechanical drive system can't transfer torque to the basket, or a safety sensor told the board to abort. Usually it's the lid lock, the shift actuator, or the plastic drive hub splines are worn down to nothing.
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OASIS-NO-SPINA Kenmore Oasis washer that fails to spin is typically experiencing a failure in the drive hub engagement, a faulty lid lock assembly, or a communication error from the Rotor Position Sensor (RPS).
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OASIS-NO-SPINThe drum isn't reaching spin speed during the final drain-and-spin phase. The control board's getting a bad or missing signal from the motor or lid lock assembly, so it kills the spin before it even starts. Clothes come out dripping wet and you'll probably see F51 or uL on the display.
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OEThe washer tried to drain water from the drum but didn't complete drainage within the required time. Water's still sitting in the tub at the end of the drain phase.
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SENSING-LIGHT-FLASHThe sensing phase is when the washer checks load size and confirms the transmission is in the right gear before starting. A flashing light means the control board got no response, or the wrong response, from the shift actuator or lid lock during that startup handshake. The machine won't proceed until it gets a clean signal back.
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SUDSUD or SD stands for Suds Detection. It means the washer caught an over-sudsing condition that's stopping the drum from spinning at high speed and preventing the drain pump from working right. Basically too many bubbles, not enough actual water for the pump to move.
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SYMPTOM-CONSTANT-DRAINThe drain pump's running nonstop because the control board is getting a signal that the tub's still full, or water's siphoning out through a bad drain hose setup. The machine doesn't think it's done draining. So it just keeps going.
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ULUL means Unbalanced Load. The control board watches motor resistance and tub movement during spin. When the tub swings outside its safe range, usually more than an inch or two of wobble, the board kills the spin to keep the machine from beating itself apart.
moderate
WASH-STOP-ISSUEThis symptom occurs when the washer successfully fills with water but fails to transition into the agitation phase or stalls before moving into the rinse and spin cycles. It typically indicates a failure in the lid sensing circuit, the drain system, or the drive engagement components.
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WONT-STARTThe washer's control board isn't detecting all the conditions it needs to begin a wash cycle. Usually that means the lid or door lock circuit isn't sending a closed signal, or the board itself lost power or got stuck in a fault state. It won't run with an open lid circuit, period.
moderate
dLdL means the control board sent the signal to lock the door, the lock tried to engage, but the sensor never confirmed it succeeded. The door isn't locked, and the machine won't spin with an unsecured door, period.
high

Waterheater

View all 5 codes →
CodeMeaning
ERR 01The control board commanded the valve motor to rotate to its home position, but the position microswitch never confirmed it got there. Basically the board's waiting on a signal that never came, so it throws the code and shuts down the cycle.
moderate
ERR 01When Err 01 fires, the control board timed out waiting for the position switch to confirm the valve motor moved to its home position. It gives the motor about three minutes. No signal comes back, it throws the code and stops the regeneration cycle dead in its tracks.
moderate
Err 03The control board sent a command to rotate the valve motor but didn't get the confirmation signal back from the position microswitch in time. It can't verify where the valve is sitting, so it stops everything and throws Err 03 to prevent running a cycle in the wrong position.
high
Error 3Error 3 means the control board sent the valve motor on a mission and never got confirmation it arrived. The cam gear is supposed to trip a small microswitch at a specific position, sending a signal back to the board. That signal never came. Board waits a few minutes, gives up, throws the code.
moderate
NOT-SOFTENINGThe resin bed isn't regenerating properly, so hard minerals like calcium and magnesium are passing straight through to your taps. Usually it's because the system can't draw brine up from the salt tank, either from a blockage or a broken mechanical part in the valve head.
moderate