Kenmore refrigerator ER RF indicates a failure in the fresh food compartment temperature sensor. The primary fix is to test the sensor resistance and replace the thermistor if it is defective.
If you're seeing ER RF and the fridge was fine yesterday, the thermistor is probably toast. I've replaced dozens of these on Kenmore 795 units and it's honestly one of the easier fixes out there, usually under $15 for the part. But ignore it and your compressor's going to run constantly or quit entirely, and either way your food's gone in a day or two.
Phillips #2 screwdriver, Small flathead screwdriver (for plastic cover clips)
What Does the ER RF Code Mean?
Here's the deal with ER RF: these LG-built Kenmore 795 refrigerators are pretty solid machines, but that fresh food compartment sensor is kind of a weak spot. When it goes, the control board doesn't know what temperature the fridge is sitting at, so it either blasts it with cold air or just gives up cooling altogether. Most of the time you're looking at a $10-15 thermistor fix you can knock out in about 30 minutes.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Debris or food residue on sensor affecting readings22%
Control board input circuit failure14%
Symptoms You May Notice
ER RF flashing or solid on the front display, sometimes alternating with the temperature readout in a loop.
Your milk is warm but the bottom shelf is ice cold, or everything in the whole compartment is sitting at a sketchy 50-55 degrees.
Compressor running non-stop all day and night, never cycling off, you can just hear that constant low hum.
Lettuce and berries going bad in 2-3 days instead of the usual week or more.
Temperature display frozen on one number or showing something weird like dashes or 88.
Can you reset a Kenmore refrigerator to clear the ER RF code?
Unplug the fridge from the wall. Wait a full 5 minutes, not 30 seconds. The capacitors on the main board need time to fully discharge before the reset means anything. Plug it back in and listen for the compressor to kick on. If ER RF doesn't come back within 15 minutes, you may have had a fluke. But if it comes right back, a reset won't save you. There's a real sensor or wiring problem that needs actual hands-on diagnostics.
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range5000–15000 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Kenmore / LG refrigerator compartment temperature sensor6615JB2001F · $10–$20
6615JB2001F
$10 – $20
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between ER 1F and ER RF on a Kenmore 795?
Simple. ER 1F is a freezer side fault, ER RF is a fresh food compartment fault. The '1F' points to the freezer temperature sensor or defrost system. The 'RF' is all about the refrigerator section. Different sensors, different locations in the fridge, different fixes entirely. I've seen people swap the wrong sensor because they mixed these two up and then couldn't figure out why the code came right back. Look at your display twice and confirm which letter is after the 'ER' before you order anything.
Will ER RF cause my food to spoil?
Yeah, pretty fast. When the board loses the sensor signal, it doesn't know what's happening temperature-wise in the fresh food section, so it may stop cooling entirely or cycle all over the place. I've seen full crisper drawers of produce ruined because someone waited a week to deal with this. The sensor is like $12. Your weekly groceries are worth way more than that. Fix it fast or move your food to a cooler in the meantime.
I replaced the ER RF sensor but the code came back the next day. What now?
First thing I'd check is the wiring connector. Pull it apart and look at those metal pins with a flashlight. Any green or white crusty oxidation and you've probably found it. Hit the pins with some electrical contact cleaner and use a toothpick to clean out the gunk. If the pins look clean and shiny, trace the wire toward the top hinge area of the door, that's where I usually find a pinch or a nick in the insulation on these units. If the wiring checks out clean all the way back, then you're probably looking at the control board itself, but that's honestly the last thing I replace, not the first.
How much does fixing ER RF cost total?
DIY: the sensor is $10-20, maybe $5 for electrical contact cleaner if you don't have it, and an hour of your time. That's pretty much it. If you call a tech, figure $80-120 for the service call, $50-80 in labor, and the part on top of that. You're probably looking at $180-220 for a pro fix. This is honestly one of those jobs I always tell homeowners to try themselves first because it's hard to mess up and the savings are real. Worst case you confirm it's the sensor and then call someone.
Can I still use the fridge while it's showing ER RF?
Technically it might still be running, but I wouldn't trust it with anything perishable. The fridge has no reliable temperature control while that sensor's out. Could be 35 degrees in there, could be 55. You won't know without a separate thermometer. Dairy, meat, leftovers, all of it's at risk. If you absolutely have to keep using it for a day or two, drop a cheap standalone thermometer inside and check it every few hours. But really just fix it. This is a 30-minute repair on a good day.