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Kenmore Refrigerator Error Codes

All Kenmore refrigerator error codes with step-by-step troubleshooting, multimeter specs, and OEM part numbers.

22 error codes

CodeMeaning
ER 1FER 1F on a Kenmore 795 refrigerator means the freezer compartment defrost temperature sensor is out of range or has an open/short circuit. This is the same code as LG 1F and affects the same component.
highintermediate
ER RFER RF means the main control board is getting a signal from the fresh food compartment temperature sensor that's either way out of range, showing a dead short, or an open circuit. Basically the board looked at that sensor reading and said 'that number makes no sense' and threw up the error to protect itself.
highintermediate
Er FFThe control board expects the freezer fan to send back a speed signal while it's running. When that signal disappears or never shows up, it throws Er FF to protect the compressor from running without airflow. The fan's either frozen solid, seized up, or the motor windings have burned through.
moderateintermediate
Er IFEr IF means the control board sent a signal to spin the ice compartment fan and didn't get the right feedback back. Either the fan's frozen solid, the motor windings are dead, or the signal from the board never made it to the motor. Usually it's the first one.
moderateintermediate
Er dHThe Er dH code indicates a Defrost Heater error. It occurs when the control board initiates a defrost cycle but the defrost thermistor fails to detect a temperature rise above 46 degrees Fahrenheit within one hour.
highintermediate
HIGH-TEMP-ALARMThe high temp alarm fires when the freezer thermistor holds a reading above roughly 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit for more than a few minutes. Cold air isn't circulating right, the compressor can't keep up, or warm air's sneaking in somewhere. The board catches it and screams at you before your food actually thaws.
highintermediate
HUBKenmore 795 series refrigerators are manufactured on the LG platform and use the same error code system as LG refrigerators. Codes appear on the front display and indicate sensor failures, fan issues, and communication faults.
lowbeginner
KEN-COMP-FAILThe compressor is the heart of your refrigerator's cooling system. When it fails to run, the sealed system cannot circulate refrigerant, leading to a total loss of cooling in both the freezer and fresh food sections even if the lights and fans are still working.
highintermediate
KEN-FREEZER-RESETA Kenmore freezer reset refers to the process of clearing error codes, restarting the control board, or reinitializing the ice maker system when cooling or ice production fails.
lowbeginner
KENMORE-REF-IDThe model and serial number are the unique identifiers for your specific refrigerator. That three-digit prefix before the period is the manufacturer code, basically a shorthand for which company actually built the unit. Without it, you can't reliably find parts, manuals, or service bulletins for your machine.
lowbeginner
MODEL-106-GUIDEThe 106 prefix is basically Kenmore's manufacturer code for Whirlpool. They built these units on Whirlpool platforms and put the Kenmore Coldspot badge on them. So when you're searching for parts or a service manual, Whirlpool is your real starting point.
lowbeginner
MODEL-596-LOOKUPThe 596 prefix is a manufacturer code Sears assigned to identify Amana-built units. It's your primary identifier for Kenmore's bottom-mount refrigerator line, and it tells any parts database exactly which chassis you've got under that Kenmore badge.
lowbeginner
MODEL-795-LOOKUPThe 795 prefix tells you LG built this fridge for Sears/Kenmore. It's not just a style code, it's a manufacturing origin code that changes everything about how you source parts, run diagnostics, and look up error codes on these units.
lowbeginner
MODEL-795-SPECSThe 795 prefix is LG's manufacturer code, telling you this Kenmore was built in an LG factory. Same compressor, same board, same everything. Just a different name on the door. It's the most important three digits on that whole label when you're trying to source anything.
lowbeginner
MODEL-KEN-SBS-DIAGRAMThis refers to the exploded-view drawings and part listings used to identify and order the correct replacement components for Kenmore side-by-side refrigerators, organized by the underlying manufacturer who actually built the unit.
lowbeginner
MODEL-KENMORE-REF-LOOKUPThis guide walks you through finding your Kenmore refrigerator's model number and decoding the manufacturer prefix so you can pull up the right parts diagram. Without the prefix, you're basically guessing what's inside.
lowbeginner
MODEL-REFRIGERATOR-LOOKUPKenmore model numbers encode the actual manufacturer inside the Sears branding. The first three digits before the decimal are the manufacturer code. The digits after identify the exact model configuration, and the last few characters usually indicate color and production run. Without this prefix you're basically guessing on every part you try to order.
lowbeginner
NOT-COOLINGThe fridge can't hold its set temperature in the fresh food section, the freezer, or both. Something's broken in the cooling cycle itself or the airflow system that moves cold air around, and the compressor is either working overtime or not running at all.
highintermediate
NOT-COOLINGThe fridge can't maintain safe temps because something's blocking heat from escaping or stopping airflow from circulating. Could be clogged coils preventing heat exchange, a dead fan cutting off air circulation, or a failed start relay that won't let the compressor kick on.
highintermediate
SYMPTOM-FREEZER-ONLYThe compressor and freezer coils are doing their job fine, but cold air isn't making it to the fresh food side. Something's either blocking the airflow path or the fan that pushes air between the two compartments has failed.
highintermediate
TEMP-CONTROL-FAULTThe refrigerator is failing to maintain the set temperature, either getting too warm or freezing food in the fresh food section, often due to a communication breakdown between sensors and the control board.
highintermediate
WARM-FRIDGE-COLD-FREEZERYour fridge doesn't have its own cooling coils. All the cold starts at the evaporator in the freezer, and a fan blows it through a duct into the fridge. When the evaporator fan quits, the defrost heater fails and lets ice choke the coils, or the damper door sticks shut, cold air just stops reaching the fresh food section entirely. Freezer stays fine because that's where the coils actually live.
highintermediate