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Kenmore Dryer Not Heating: Thermal Fuse and Heating Element

Quick Answer

A Kenmore dryer not heating usually indicates a blown thermal fuse or a burnt-out heating element. The most common fix is replacing the thermal fuse after checking for a clogged exhaust vent.

Nine times out of ten when I show up to a Kenmore that won't heat, it's the thermal fuse. And nine times out of ten, it blew because the vent was clogged. Replace the fuse without cleaning the vent and you'll be back here in six months doing it again. The fuse is cheap, around $8. The real fix is finding out why it blew.

KenmoreDryerSeverity: moderateDifficulty: intermediate75% DIY Success
Time to Fix
15–90 min
Difficulty
intermediate
Parts Cost
$5 – $60
Tools Needed
Phillips #2 screwdriver, Multimeter (continuity and ohms settings)

Kenmore Dryer Not Heating: Thermal Fuse and Heating Element

OK so here's the deal. Your dryer's tumbling fine but nothing's getting dry, and you're staring at a pile of damp clothes wondering if you need a whole new machine. You probably don't. The thermal fuse is the most likely culprit, and it's a one-time device, meaning it doesn't reset after it blows. Replaced probably a dozen of these last month alone across different Kenmore models. Parts are cheap, diagnosis is straightforward, and most people can handle this themselves.

Common Causes

  • The exhaust vent is clogged with lint somewhere between the dryer outlet and the exterior wall, causing the dryer to overheat and blow the thermal fuse as a safety measure.
  • The thermal fuse has blown open and now reads infinite resistance on a multimeter. It's a one-time safety device and once it's gone, it's gone, it does not reset.
  • The heating element coil has a break in it, which shows up as an open circuit on your meter. You can usually see a visible burn mark or gap in the coil wire when you pull it out.
  • On gas dryers, one or both gas valve solenoid coils have failed, so the valve won't open and gas can't reach the burner even though the igniter glows red.
  • The cycling thermostat is stuck open, meaning the control circuit never completes and heat never comes on even though everything else looks fine.
  • The igniter on a gas dryer has cracked. It might still glow orange, which is confusing, but it won't get hot enough to actually ignite the gas flowing through.

Symptoms You May Notice

  • Clothes come out of a full 45-minute cycle just as damp as they went in, but the drum was definitely spinning the whole time.
  • Cool or barely warm air coming out of the exhaust vent when the dryer's running, instead of the hot blast it normally puts out.
  • On gas models, you might hear a click and a brief attempt to light, then silence, then another click, repeating in a loop throughout the cycle.
  • The laundry room gets unusually humid while the dryer runs, or drying times have been getting longer and longer over the past few months before heat finally stopped altogether.
  • Visible lint buildup around the exterior vent cap, or the flap on the exterior vent isn't opening when the dryer runs.

Can you reset a Kenmore dryer to clear the NOT-HEATING code?

There's no reset button on most Kenmore dryers for a heating issue. The thermal fuse doesn't reset, it has to be replaced. Once you've fixed the root cause, unplug the dryer for at least 5 full minutes. Plug it back in and run a timed dry cycle, not a sensor dry cycle, for about 20-30 minutes. You should feel hot air at the exhaust vent within the first few minutes if the repair worked.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverMultimeter (continuity and ohms settings)Flashlight or headlampDryer vent cleaning brush kit1/4" or 5/16" nut driverNeedle-nose pliers (for wire connectors)Work gloves (sheet metal edges are sharp)

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range8–50 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name
Thermal FuseModel-specific · $5–$15
Heating ElementModel-specific · $25–$60

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to replace the thermal fuse on a Kenmore dryer?
The fuse itself is dirt cheap, usually $5-15 for the part depending on your model. If you're doing it yourself, that's pretty much the whole cost. A repair tech will charge you a service call ($75-150) plus 30-45 minutes of labor, so you're looking at $150-250 total to have someone do it. Honestly it's one of the easier DIY appliance repairs out there. The back panel comes off with a few screws and the fuse just unplugs. Worth doing yourself if you're at all handy.
Will replacing just the thermal fuse actually fix my Kenmore dryer?
It'll fix it temporarily, but if you don't fix what caused it to blow, you'll be replacing another fuse in a few months. The fuse blows because the dryer overheated, and the dryer overheats because airflow is restricted somewhere. So replace the fuse, but also clean your entire vent run from the dryer to the outside wall. Get a vent cleaning brush kit and go through the whole thing. Do both, not just one.
My Kenmore dryer tumbles but won't heat. Is it definitely the thermal fuse?
Tumbling with no heat is the classic thermal fuse symptom, yeah. But it could also be the heating element, a thermostat, a gas valve solenoid, or even a partially tripped breaker. The thermal fuse is just the most likely culprit, especially if your vent hasn't been cleaned recently. Don't just throw a fuse at it without at least checking the vent first. A quick continuity test with a cheap multimeter will tell you exactly which component failed before you order anything.
How long does a Kenmore dryer heating element usually last?
Usually 8-15 years, but it depends a lot on how hard you run the machine and whether the vent's been maintained. If your vent's been partially clogged for years, the element runs hotter than it should and burns out faster. I've seen elements fail at 4-5 years in houses where the venting was a mess. In a well-maintained setup with clean venting and normal loads, 12-15 years is pretty typical. The element for most Kenmore models runs $20-50 for the part.
Is a Kenmore dryer not heating a fire hazard?
The no-heat problem itself isn't usually the fire risk. It's the clogged vent that caused the heating issue that's the real danger. Lint is extremely flammable, and clogged dryer vents cause thousands of house fires every year. So if your dryer stopped heating because the thermal fuse blew from a clogged vent, the safety system actually did its job. Just make sure you clean that vent thoroughly before you put the dryer back in service.
How do I know if my Kenmore dryer is electric or gas?
Look at the plug. Gas dryers use a standard 120V three-prong outlet, same as your washer, plus a gas line at the back. Electric dryers use a big 240V plug, either three-prong or four-prong, that's noticeably larger than a regular outlet. You can also look at the back of the dryer for a metal gas line or flexible connector going to a shutoff valve on the wall. If you're still not sure, check the model number label on the inside of the door frame and look it up.

Models Known to Experience NOT-HEATING Errors

This repair applies to most Kenmore dryers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

110.67032600, 796.81182310, 110.68132411, 110.62132100, 110.66102500, 796.81582810, 110.69432800, 110.85081401

MS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026