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ErrBase

Kenmore Dryer Error Codes

All Kenmore dryer error codes with step-by-step troubleshooting, multimeter specs, and OEM part numbers.

10 error codes

CodeMeaning
DRUM-STALLThe drum's getting power to the motor but something in the chain between the motor and the drum has failed. Either a mechanical part snapped or a safety component cut the circuit. Timer's running, heat might be on, but nothing's turning.
highintermediate
DRYER-NO-SPIN-HEATThe motor's running fine and the heater's working, but the rubber belt that wraps around the drum and connects everything to the motor has snapped. So the drum just sits there while hot air blows past stationary clothes. Purely mechanical, not electrical.
moderateintermediate
F01The F01 code means the main electronic control board detected an internal checksum error or a failed relay on its own circuit. The dryer's brain basically failed a self-test and it won't run the motor or heater until that gets resolved.
criticalintermediate
F31F31 means the control board checked the incoming power and found the L2 voltage leg is missing or too low. Your dryer needs two separate 120V legs adding up to 240V total. Without L2, the heating element circuit is dead. The board throws F31 to tell you it's a power supply problem, not a heater or sensor problem inside the machine.
highintermediate
F40F40 fires when the main control board sends a signal to the motor control board and gets nothing back. Basically the two brains in your dryer stopped talking. Could be the wire between them, could be one of the boards itself, but that's the conversation that broke down.
highintermediate
HUBKenmore doesn't manufacture dryers. They're either built by LG (model prefix 796) or Whirlpool (model prefix 110). When a fault fires, the internal logic, sensor specs, and part numbers are completely different depending on which company actually assembled your machine.
moderateintermediate
MODEL-110-GUIDEThe 110 prefix is a manufacturer source code that tells you Whirlpool built this dryer for the Kenmore brand. So internally, it's basically a Whirlpool. Same components, same wiring, same everything. That's actually really useful because Whirlpool is one of the most well-documented appliance platforms on the planet.
lowbeginner
NOISEThe dryer's drum is supported by rollers, front glides, a rear bearing, and a tensioned belt. When any of those wear out, the friction or imbalance creates noise during tumbling. The specific sound, squeak vs. thump vs. grind, points directly to which component is failing.
moderateintermediate
NOT-HEATINGYour dryer's heating circuit has multiple safety components that cut power to the heat source when temps spike too high. When one fails or trips permanently, you get tumbling with zero heat. Electric dryers usually lose the element or thermal fuse. Gas dryers lose the igniter or valve solenoids. Either way, the drum spins fine but nothing actually dries.
moderateintermediate
NOT-SPINNINGThe dryer's drum is not rotating during the cycle. This can be caused by a mechanical break in the drive system or an electrical safety component preventing the motor from engaging.
highintermediate