Kenmore Washer Won't Start: Lid Lock and Control Board Fix
Quick Answer
Kenmore washer not starting: check that the door or lid is fully closed and locked. Make sure child lock is not enabled. Try a power reset (unplug 2 minutes). If still dead, check the breaker and the door switch/lock with a multimeter.
Most of the time when I show up to a Kenmore that won't start, it's one of three things: the lid lock didn't click, child lock got turned on by accident, or the control board needs a hard reset. Ignore it and you're looking at mold buildup from a drum full of wet clothes, or worse, you miss that a water inlet valve was trickling in the background. Fix it now, not next week.
Kenmore Washer Won't Start: Lid Lock and Control Board Fix
Here's the deal with Kenmore washers specifically: they're actually built by Whirlpool or LG depending on your model prefix, and that matters a lot for diagnosis. A 110-prefix model is Whirlpool-built, a 796-prefix is LG-built, and those two machines fail in completely different ways. Don't buy parts until you know which one you have. Most start failures on these are a $30-60 door latch or a five-minute reset, so don't panic yet.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Door lock or lid switch not confirming secure closure40%
Tripped circuit breaker or blown thermal fuse24%
Control board failure from power surge14%
Child lock mode enabled accidentally12%
Stuck start button or control panel fault10%
Symptoms You May Notice
You press Start and absolutely nothing happens, no click, no hum, no spin up, just silence.
The display lights up and shows the cycle settings fine, but it just won't go when you hit Start.
You can hear the door lock trying to engage, it clicks two or three times, but then the machine gives up and sits there.
On top loaders, the lid is definitely closed but the washer acts like it's open and refuses to fill.
The whole control panel is dark and unresponsive, like the machine lost power entirely even though it's plugged in.
Can you reset a Kenmore washer to clear the WONT-START code?
Unplug the washer completely from the wall and wait five full minutes, not two, not three. Five. Then plug back in and immediately try to start a cycle before touching any other buttons. For Whirlpool-built top loaders, try plugging in and opening and closing the lid six times in 12 seconds, then press Start. You should hear the door lock engage and water should begin filling within 30 seconds if the reset worked.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlathead screwdriver (small)Multimeter with continuity settingFlashlight or headlampNeedle-nose pliers1/4 inch nut driverPutty knife (for popping cabinet clips on top loaders)
Service / Diagnostic Mode
For Whirlpool-built Kenmore top loaders (110 prefix): Make sure the washer is plugged in and in standby. Rotate the cycle selector knob: Left 1 click, Right 3 clicks, Left 1 click, Right 1 click, all within about 8 seconds. LEDs should flash to confirm diagnostic mode. For LG-built models (796 prefix): Press and hold the Spin Speed and Soil Level buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds.
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range0–5 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I find my model number?
On top loaders, flip the lid up and look on the underside of the lid or on the rim of the tub opening. On front loaders, it's almost always right inside the door on a sticker on the door frame itself. You're looking for a number starting with 110, 796, or 417. That prefix tells you who actually built the machine: 110 is Whirlpool, 796 is LG, 417 is older Frigidaire-built. Write it down before you call anyone or order anything because the wrong parts won't fit.
Is it worth repairing?
If it's under 8 years old and you're looking at a lid switch or door lock, yeah, absolutely fix it. Those parts are $25-60 and a half hour of your time. If you're staring at a fried main control board on a 12-year-old top loader, that board might cost $150 and then you're gambling on what else is about to fail. Generally my rule is: if the repair is less than half the cost of a comparable replacement machine, fix it. But if you're replacing a board on a machine that's seen better days, have that conversation with yourself first.
Can I fix this myself?
Honestly, yes, most of the time. Replacing a lid switch is literally unscrew, unplug, replug, rescrew. Door latch on a front loader is maybe 30 minutes if you've never done it. The part that trips people up is confidently diagnosing which component is actually dead before buying anything. Use your multimeter. Don't just guess and order a $120 control board when it's a $35 lid switch. If you get to the point of testing live voltage on the board, that's where I'd say call a pro if you're not comfortable.
Why does my Kenmore say it's a different brand inside?
Sears never actually manufactured washers. They contracted with Whirlpool, LG, and others to build machines that got sold under the Kenmore name. So your Kenmore might be 95% identical to a Whirlpool Cabrio or an LG WT7300CW internally. That's actually useful because Whirlpool and LG parts are sometimes cheaper and easier to find than Kenmore-branded parts. Check your model prefix and then look up the OEM equivalent model to open up your parts sourcing options.
What if the washer starts sometimes but not other times?
Intermittent no-start is almost always the lid switch or door lock wearing out and only making contact sometimes. I replaced three of these last month on Kenmore top loaders, all the same story: works fine for a few loads, then one day won't start, you wiggle the lid and it goes, then gets worse over a couple weeks. The fix is just replacing the switch before it dies completely. Don't wait. Also check your power outlet with a meter to rule out a loose connection that's causing voltage drops when the machine tries to pull startup current.
How much does a repair shop charge for this?
A diagnostic call is usually $75-100 just for showing up. Lid switch replacement including labor is probably $150-200 total at most shops. Door lock on a front loader maybe $175-250 depending on the market. Control board replacement could run $250-400 with labor. So yeah, if you can DIY the diagnosis and the part swap, you're saving real money. Parts alone are a fraction of that. A door lock assembly for most Kenmore front loaders is $40-70 online.
Models Known to Experience WONT-START Errors
This repair applies to most Kenmore washers with this error code. Common model numbers include: