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ErrBase

Kenmore Elite Cooktop Burner Not Heating

Quick Answer

If your Kenmore Elite cooktop isn't heating, the most likely culprit is a burned-out radiant element or a failed infinite control switch. First, check your home circuit breaker to ensure both legs of the 240V power are active, then inspect the element for visible breaks in the heating ribbon.

Honestly, nine out of ten dead burner calls I get are either a burned-out element ribbon or a fried switch. Both parts are cheap and pretty easy to swap yourself. But don't ignore this too long. If it's a loose terminal that's arcing, you can end up with a much bigger problem than a cold burner. Get this diagnosed fast.

KenmoreOvenSeverity: highDifficulty: intermediate92% DIY Success
Time to Fix
45–90 min
Difficulty
intermediate
Parts Cost
$45 – $160
Tools Needed
Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver

Kenmore Elite Cooktop Burner Not Heating

Fixing a dead burner on a Kenmore Elite usually costs between $50 and $150, depending on whether it's the switch or the element. It's honestly a pretty manageable Saturday morning project. I'll walk you through how to safely test each component so you're not just throwing parts at the problem and hoping something sticks.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Burned out radiant heating element ribbon45%
Failed infinite control switch (burned internal contacts)30%
Melted or loose wiring terminals at the element15%
Faulty Electronic Surface Element Control (ESEC) board10%

Symptoms You May Notice

  • One burner is completely stone cold while the other three fire up and glow orange just fine.
  • The 'Element On' indicator light is lit and the knob turns, but there's zero heat coming through the glass surface.
  • The burner gets barely warm, like it maxes out around 150 degrees, but it never glows red and won't come close to boiling water.
  • Works fine on High but every other setting, Medium, Low, even Medium-High, does absolutely nothing.
  • You smell faint burning plastic the first time you turn that burner on after a while, then nothing works after that.

Can you reset a Kenmore oven to clear the BURNER-NOT-HEATING code?

For Kenmore Elite models with digital touch controls, flip the breaker to Off and leave it for a full 60 seconds. Don't cheat and flip it right back. You want the ESEC board to fully lose power and reset. When you restore power, the display might run a brief startup sequence. Try the burner. This fixes glitchy control lockouts more often than you'd think.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverFlathead screwdriverMultimeterNon-contact voltage testerNeedle nose pliersWork glovesFlashlight or headlampPiece of 2x4 lumber (for propping glass top)

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

Did the fix not work?

If the problem comes back after following these steps, a component has permanently failed and needs replacement. Check the specific error code your oven is showing:

F10 Error →
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range10–80 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name
Radiant Surface Element (Large)316282101 · $85–$160
Infinite Control Switch316442101 · $45–$95

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I still use the other burners if one is broken?
Yeah, totally. On Kenmore Elite cooktops, each burner runs on its own circuit inside the appliance. So unless you've got a dead short that's tripping the whole breaker every time you try to cook, the other three burners are completely fine to use. I tell customers this all the time because they'll stop using the whole cooktop when really they just need to avoid one spot for a week while the replacement part ships in.
Why does my burner click on and off while I'm cooking?
That's completely normal, don't stress about it. The infinite switch works by literally cycling power on and off to simulate different heat levels. Lower settings cycle off more frequently, higher settings stay on longer. High means it's drawing power basically 100% of the time. Now if the clicking sounds more like a loud relay bang rather than a soft tick, that's when you should pay attention. Loud, aggressive clicking can mean the switch contacts are wearing out and you might be a few months away from a dead burner.
How do I know if I have an ESEC board or standard switches?
Easy. If your cooktop has touch controls where you tap a button or slide your finger across glass to adjust heat, you've got an ESEC board. If you have physical knobs you turn, you've probably got standard infinite switches. Though some of the fancier Kenmore Elite models use knobs that actually interface with a digital board underneath, which is kind of the worst of both worlds when something fails. When in doubt, pull your model number off the frame under the glass top and search it.
Is it worth repairing a 10 year old Kenmore Elite cooktop?
Almost always yes. A new comparable cooktop runs $1,200 to $1,800 installed. An element is $40-80 and takes maybe 30 minutes to swap out. Even an ESEC board, which is the priciest fix on this list, runs about $120-200 and still makes total financial sense. I've got customers running 15-year-old Kenmore Elites that are still going strong because they replaced one or two parts along the way. These are solid machines and they're worth keeping.
What's the difference between the element and the infinite switch, and which one fails more often?
The element is the actual heating part, the coiled ribbon sitting in the ceramic bowl under the glass. The infinite switch is the mechanical component your knob connects to that controls how much power reaches the element. Elements fail most often on the high-wattage Power Boil burners because they run incredibly hot for long stretches. Switches tend to die on the medium burners that get cranked on low and medium settings every single day for years. Both are cheap parts, and either way you're looking at under $100 to fix it yourself.

Related Kenmore Oven Error Codes

Code: F10Kenmore Oven F10 Error: Runaway Temperature

Models Known to Experience BURNER-NOT-HEATING Errors

This repair applies to most Kenmore ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

790.41073, 790.41063, 911.43419, 790.46813, 790.46613, 790.46603, 911.45539, 790.41183

MS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on May 20, 2025