Warning: Disconnect power before servicing.
ErrBase

Kenmore Oven Error Codes

All Kenmore oven error codes with step-by-step troubleshooting, multimeter specs, and OEM part numbers.

23 error codes

CodeMeaning
BURNER-FAILThe 240V circuit feeding your burner got broken somewhere along the line. The heating coil's internal wire snapped, the receptacle terminals burnt out, or the infinite switch stopped sending voltage through. Everything else on your stove is fine. It's just that one circuit with a break in it.
moderateintermediate
BURNER-NOT-HEATINGBasically, something broke the circuit that sends 240 volts to that radiant ribbon. Either the ribbon itself snapped, the switch stopped passing current, or a terminal melted and lost contact. The cooktop's brain thinks everything's fine, but the power's not actually making it to the burner.
highintermediate
CLEANINGThe self-clean cycle is basically a controlled burn inside your oven. It cranks the temperature up to around 800 degrees Fahrenheit, hot enough to turn pretty much any food residue into a fine white ash that you can just wipe out with a damp cloth.
lowbeginner
CLEANINGPyrolytic cleaning cranks the oven to around 800 to 900 degrees Fahrenheit, way past anything you'd cook at. At those temps, grease and food residue literally incinerate and turn to ash. That fine white powder you wipe out afterward? That's everything that was baked onto the walls and floor, just carbonized.
lowbeginner
CLEANINGRoutine maintenance and deep cleaning procedures for Kenmore electric and gas ovens, including self-clean and manual methods.
lowbeginner
F1F1 means the Electronic Range Control detected either a runaway temperature condition or an internal logic failure it can't recover from on its own. Basically the oven's main computer is saying it can't trust what it's seeing, so it locked itself out to keep you safe.
highintermediate
F1The F1 code means the Electronic Range Control detected a logic fault or a stuck relay in the heating circuit. Basically the board tried to check itself and got an answer it didn't expect, so it threw up the code and started beeping at you.
highintermediate
F10The RTD sensor sends resistance values to the control board to report oven temperature. When those values go way outside the normal range, either from a sensor failure or a stuck relay keeping the element on, the board triggers F10 as a runaway temperature protection fault.
highintermediate
F11The F11 code means your oven thinks a button is stuck. The Electronic Oven Control (EOC) watches for touchpad signals, and if it sees any button held for more than 30 seconds, it triggers a safety shutdown to keep the oven from running when nobody told it to.
highintermediate
F11F11 means the control board detected a button that's been pressed for over 30 seconds straight. Could be a genuinely stuck key, a short in the membrane layer, or a failing control board that's reading false signals. Either way, the board shuts everything down to prevent runaway heating.
highintermediate
F2F2 means the board detected the oven temp went over the safe limit, usually somewhere above 600°F during a normal cook cycle. Either the oven actually got that hot because a relay stuck on, or the sensor's sending garbage readings that make the board think it did.
highintermediate
F2F2 means the oven's internal temperature blew past the maximum safe threshold during a cooking or broil cycle. The board's basically saying it can't control the heat anymore. It's similar to F10 on some platforms but can trigger at a slightly lower threshold depending on which manufacturer actually built your Kenmore.
highintermediate
F30F30 means the control board sees an open circuit where the temperature sensor should be. Basically the sensor's internal resistance has gone infinite, which tells the board the probe is broken or disconnected. No sensor reading means no heating, period.
moderatebeginner
F30The control board's polling the lower cavity sensor for a resistance reading and getting nothing back. That's an open circuit. The sensor's basically a resistor that changes value with temperature. When it reads 'OL' on your meter instead of around 1,100 ohms, it's dead and the board knows it.
moderateintermediate
HEATING-FAILUREThere's an open somewhere in the bread machine's heating circuit. Either the element cracked internally from years of thermal cycling, a safety fuse blew to prevent a meltdown, or the relay on the control board stopped sending current to the heater loop. The machine doesn't know which one it is. It just knows it can't get hot.
highintermediate
KENMORE-790-REPAIRThe 790 series is Kenmore's Frigidaire-built freestanding range line. When these fail, it's almost always the bake element, the RTD temperature sensor, or the electronic oven control board that handles all the relay logic for heat cycles. Same chassis as a bunch of Frigidaire and Electrolux ranges, which is actually great news for parts availability.
highintermediate
MODEL-790-GUIDEThe 790 prefix is Sears' internal manufacturer code pointing to Frigidaire, which is owned by Electrolux. Your oven physically came off a Frigidaire assembly line with a Kenmore badge on it. That's actually a good thing for you.
lowbeginner
MODEL-KENMORE-GAS-RANGEKenmore doesn't build its own gas ranges. The model number on the sticker decodes which actual manufacturer made your stove, which determines which parts diagram applies and which replacement components will physically fit your unit.
lowbeginner
MODEL-KENMORE-STOVEThe model number is an 11-digit code formatted like 790.12345678. The first three digits before the decimal identify which company actually built the stove for Sears. Everything after the decimal identifies the exact production series, feature set, and compatible replacement parts for your unit.
lowbeginner
MODEL-LOOKUPThis guide helps owners locate their Kenmore oven's model number and decode the manufacturer prefix to find the correct parts diagrams.
lowbeginner
NOT-HEATINGThe oven's heating circuit has failed to reach or maintain the set temperature. In electric models this means the bake element, broil element, or their control circuit is open. In gas models it means insufficient current is flowing through the igniter to open the gas safety valve. The oven control board monitors the temperature sensor and cuts power or signals an error when the cavity temperature does not rise within a set window after a heat call.
moderateintermediate
NOT-MIXINGThe drive system can't transfer power from the motor to the kneading paddle. Usually it's a snapped or stretched rubber belt, but sometimes the pan bearing seizes up from water damage. Either way, the motor's spinning but nothing's actually moving your dough.
moderateintermediate
WONT-STARTThe oven isn't initiating a heat cycle. Could be a software lockout, a power delivery problem at the breaker, or a safety component like a thermal fuse that's cut power to prevent overheating. Basically the oven's telling you it can't run right now, but it's not always telling you exactly why.
moderateintermediate