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ErrBase

Kenmore Oven F2 Error Code: Fix Runaway Heat

Quick Answer

The F2 code signals that your oven is overheating or has a sensor circuit failure. Nine times out of ten, this is caused by a stuck relay on the electronic control board or a faulty oven temperature sensor that is sending incorrect data.

F2 is one of those codes I don't mess around with. If your oven is actually hot when it throws this, something is physically stuck on and that's a fire hazard. Ignore it and you're looking at scorched cabinets, a melted control panel, or worse. Most of the time it's a $30 sensor fix, but sometimes that relay on the board is welded shut and that's a whole different conversation.

KenmoreOvenSeverity: highDifficulty: intermediate88% DIY Success
Time to Fix
30–60 min
Difficulty
intermediate
Parts Cost
—
Tools Needed
Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver

What Does the F2 Code Mean?

Here's the deal with F2. The sensor fix is usually $20-50 in parts and takes maybe 20 minutes. But if your board's relay is welded, you're looking at $150-300 for a replacement board, sometimes more for older units. Kenmore ovens from the early 2000s especially have this relay problem. I replaced three boards last month alone from this exact failure mode.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Stuck or welded control board relay65%
Faulty oven temperature sensor25%
Short-circuited wiring harness10%

Symptoms You May Notice

  • Oven shuts off mid-cook with F2 on the display, even at a totally normal baking temp like 350°F
  • The oven door and surrounding cabinets are radiating serious heat, way more than a normal cooking session would cause
  • F2 shows up the instant you turn the oven on, before it even has a chance to heat up at all (this one's almost always a dead sensor)
  • Burning smell coming from behind the control panel, not from food
  • Oven worked fine through preheat but threw F2 right as it hit the set temperature

Can you reset a Kenmore oven to clear the F2 code?

Flip the circuit breaker off and leave it for 10 full minutes, not just 30 seconds. The board's capacitors need to fully discharge. When you restore power, the board runs its startup self-check. If the sensor is reading in the right range (1080-1100 ohms) and the relays aren't stuck, the display should come up clean with no code. If F2 comes right back, a reset won't fix it and you've got a hardware problem to deal with.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driver5/16 inch nut driverDigital multimeter (set to ohms and continuity)Work glovesFlashlight or headlamp

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range1080–1100 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I still use my oven if it shows an F2 code?
No. Don't use it. I know that's inconvenient but this isn't a code you push through. If that relay's stuck on, the oven can keep heating past 900°F with nothing to stop it. That's how you end up with scorched cabinets or worse. The F2 is the board trying to shut things down safely. Let it do its job and fix the root cause first.
Why does the F2 code only happen during the self-clean cycle?
Self-clean pushes the oven to temperatures in the 900°F range, way hotter than normal cooking. If your relay is slightly weak or your sensor is reading a little high but not quite enough to trigger F2 at 350°F, the extreme heat of self-clean will push it over the threshold. Basically, it's a marginal component that only fails at the worst possible time. I see this constantly with ovens that are 8-10 years old and haven't had the sensor touched since they were installed.
How do I test my Kenmore oven sensor with a multimeter?
Set your meter to ohms. Unplug the sensor connector from behind the oven and put one probe on each terminal. At room temperature you want to see 1080 to 1100 ohms. If it reads zero, the sensor's shorted. If it reads OL or infinity, the sensor's open. Both mean it's dead. The part usually runs $20-50 depending on your model and it's a 15-minute swap, two screws and a plug.
Is it cheaper to replace the board or the sensor?
Always test the sensor first. Sensors run $20-50. Control boards for Kenmore ranges can run anywhere from $150 to $350 depending on the model, and some older units are hard to source. I always tell customers let's rule out the cheap part before we talk about the expensive one. Probably 6 or 7 out of 10 F2 calls I go on, it ends up being the sensor.
How long does it take to replace a Kenmore oven temperature sensor?
Honestly? 15 to 20 minutes if you've done it once before. Even if it's your first time, give yourself 30-45 minutes. You'll pull the oven out, remove one or two screws holding the probe inside the cavity, disconnect the plug behind the back panel, and reverse the whole thing with the new sensor. That's basically it. Most people are surprised how straightforward it is compared to how scary the F2 code sounds when it's beeping at them.

Models Known to Experience F2 Errors

This repair applies to most Kenmore ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

790.75503010, 790.95003010, 790.46783900, 790.71492400, 790.92312203, 790.47852400, 790.40279900, 790.61262010

MS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026