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ErrBase

Kenmore Stove Burner Not Working: Repair Guide

Quick Answer

Most Kenmore stove burners stop working due to a burnt-out element or a faulty infinite switch. To test it, swap the non-working burner with a working one of the same size to see if the problem stays with the element or stays at the stove socket.

Nine times out of ten when I get called out for a dead Kenmore burner, it's just the element finally giving up. But here's what people skip: check the receptacle block too, because a bad connection there can kill a brand new element real fast. Ignore this long enough and that arcing connection can damage the wiring harness, turning a $15 fix into something way more annoying.

KenmoreOvenSeverity: moderateDifficulty: intermediate95% DIY Success
Time to Fix
15–45 min
Difficulty
intermediate
Parts Cost
—
Tools Needed
Phillips #2 screwdriver, Flathead screwdriver (for back panel clips)

What Does the BURNER-FAIL Code Mean?

OK so here's the deal. A dead burner on a Kenmore coil range is usually a $15-25 fix and takes maybe 45 minutes tops. Glass top models cost a bit more, maybe $40-80 for the radiant element. I replace three or four of these a month and the vast majority are just the element wearing out. Grab a multimeter before you order anything though, because the socket or switch fails too and you don't want to guess wrong.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Heating Element Failure55%
Infinite Switch Failure25%
Receptacle/Socket Damage15%
Wiring Issues5%

Symptoms You May Notice

  • The burner stays stone cold no matter what setting you use, while every other burner on the stove works totally fine.
  • You turn the knob and you can feel or hear the switch click, but absolutely nothing happens at the burner.
  • The burner sparked or flashed once when you first turned it on, then went completely dark and won't come back.
  • Glass top only: one cooking zone lights up briefly then shuts off, or one zone shows no heat indicator at all while the rest work.
  • Burner heats on High but won't simmer, it's either full blast or nothing, which usually means the infinite switch is dying but not quite dead yet.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverFlathead screwdriver (for back panel clips)Digital multimeterNon-contact voltage testerNeedle-nose pliersWork glovesFlashlight or headlamp

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range19–55 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a burner from a different brand on my Kenmore stove?
Actually, maybe. Kenmore ranges weren't made by Kenmore, they were built by Frigidaire, Whirlpool, or a few other manufacturers depending on the year and model. A lot of those elements are physically identical across brands. But looks the same isn't good enough here. You need to match the wattage and the pin configuration, because running the wrong wattage through a circuit designed for something else will damage the wiring over time. Pull the model number off your sticker, look up the specific part number, and order that exact one. It's usually $15-25 and totally worth doing right.
Why does my burner only work on the High setting?
Classic infinite switch failure. The switch has a little bimetal mechanism inside that cycles on and off to regulate temperature, kind of like a thermostat. When that wears out, it either gets stuck wide open (full power all the time) or stops making contact entirely. In your case it's still making the initial connection on High but can't do the cycling that creates lower settings. The fix is replacing the infinite switch for that burner, which is usually $20-40 depending on your model. Not a hard swap, maybe 20-30 minutes if you've done any basic appliance work before.
Is it worth fixing an older Kenmore stove?
Yeah, usually. These older coil-top Kenmore ranges are built way more solidly than a lot of the new stuff with touchscreens and electronic controls. A burner element is $15-25. A switch is $20-40. Even if you need both plus a receptacle block, you're maybe $60-70 in parts total. Compare that to a new range which starts around $500 and goes way up. I always tell people the same thing: if the oven works and the other burners are fine, just fix it. These things can genuinely last 20-25 years with basic maintenance. Way better ROI than replacing the whole stove.
How do I find the model number on my Kenmore range?
Check three spots. First, pull out the storage drawer at the bottom of the stove and look at the frame around the opening. Second, open the oven door and check the left side of the door frame, there's usually a sticker in there. Third, if yours has a lift-up cooktop, look underneath it. The model number starts with a three-digit prefix like 790 (Frigidaire-made) or 664 (Whirlpool-made). You need that full number to order the right element size and wattage, not just a burner that kinda looks right.
Why did my burner spark before it stopped working?
That spark was a short circuit. The outer metal sheath of the heating element cracked from thermal stress and the live inner wire touched the grounded sheath. That creates an arc, which is the spark you saw, and it usually kills the element instantly. But here's the thing: that arc can also damage the receptacle block. If you saw a decent-sized spark or smelled burning plastic, don't just swap the element and call it done. Pull that receptacle out and check the terminals too. I've seen plenty of cases where a new element burned up fast because the damaged socket was still in there.
How long do Kenmore stove burners usually last?
A coil element on a Kenmore range should last 10-15 years with normal daily use, sometimes longer. The ones that die early usually had liquid boiled into them repeatedly or got physically damaged. The infinite switch tends to outlast the element in most cases, actually. If you're replacing your second or third element on the same burner position within a few years, start looking at the switch and receptacle too, because something's stressing those elements faster than normal. Frequency of use is the biggest factor, so if one burner is your go-to every single day, expect it to wear out first.

Models Known to Experience BURNER-FAIL Errors

This repair applies to most Kenmore ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

790.92402012, 790.46803992, 790.90102900, 664.95109000, 790.92312014, 664.95879000, 790.92500013

MS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026