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Kitchenaid Oven Error Codes

All Kitchenaid oven error codes with step-by-step troubleshooting, multimeter specs, and OEM part numbers.

9 error codes

CodeMeaning
F1 E0F1E0 on a KitchenAid oven means the control board's EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory) has failed. The EEPROM stores the oven's calibration data, model configuration, and operational parameters.
highadvanced
F1 E1F1E1 means the control board's internal communication has broken down. On a single oven, the board's talking to itself and getting no response from an internal component. On double ovens, it's the two boards that've stopped talking to each other through the wiring harness connecting them.
highadvanced
F2 E0F2E0 on a KitchenAid oven specifically indicates the Cancel/Off key circuit is shorted. This is more specific than F2E1 which indicates any key - F2E0 points directly to the cancel key circuit on the keypad membrane.
moderateintermediate
F2 E1F2 E1 means the control board detected a key stuck in the pressed position, most commonly the Cancel/Off key circuit. Something's holding that circuit closed when it shouldn't be. Same code as Whirlpool F2 E1 since they share the same control architecture.
moderateintermediate
F6 E1The F6 E1 error code indicates a communication failure between the oven control board and the user interface or display board.
highintermediate
F9 E0F9E0 on a KitchenAid oven means the door latch will not release after self-clean. The latch motor ran the self-clean cycle but the bimetal lock mechanism has not cooled enough to release, or the latch motor itself has failed.
moderateintermediate
GLASS-REPLACEMENTKitchenAid cooktop glass repair means replacing the cracked, shattered, or heavily pitted single-piece ceramic glass surface on a range or standalone cooktop. The ceramic glass is both the cooking surface and the electrical barrier between you and the radiant heating elements underneath.
highintermediate
KITCHENAID-IGNITER-TSThe igniter's resistance has climbed high enough that it can't draw the current the safety valve needs to open. That valve's built to stay shut unless it sees at least 3.2 amps, so even a glowing igniter pulling only 2.8 amps won't release gas. Safety system doing exactly what it's supposed to do.
highintermediate
KNOB-FIXThe internal plastic D-ring inside the knob grips the flat side of the metal valve stem. When that ring cracks or the tension clip goes missing, the knob can't transfer your turning motion to the valve, so the gas doesn't move and the burner won't light or adjust.
lowbeginner