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ErrBase

Kitchenaid Error Codes

Find troubleshooting guides for all Kitchenaid error codes.

32 error codes across 4 appliance types

Dishwasher

View all 15 codes →
CodeMeaning
577-0577-0 is a control board internal fault that only surfaces in service diagnostic mode, not on the main display during normal use. The board's basically saying it logged something weird in its EEPROM at some point. It's not an active warning. It's more like a timestamp of a past event the processor decided to remember.
moderate
6-3The KitchenAid dishwasher error code 6-3 indicates that the control board has detected excessive suds or foam inside the tub. This condition prevents the wash pump from circulating water effectively and can cause the pressure sensor to provide inaccurate readings.
low
8-4The 8-4 error code means the control board detected a heater circuit fault. The heating element didn't raise water temperature to the required level within the expected cycle time. It shows on KitchenAid models with a digital display and it's equivalent to the Clean light 7-blink code on indicator-only models.
moderate
9-1The 9-1 means the diverter disc didn't reach its expected position during the cycle. That disc routes wash water between the lower rack, upper rack, and third rack spray zones on KDTM models. When it doesn't advance on time, the board kills the cycle and throws the code. Same exact fault as 9 blinks on the Clean light on older models without a digital display.
moderate
CLEAN-4-BLINKFour blinks means the control board's thermistor circuit is open or shorted. That NTC sensor in the sump isn't sending back any temperature data, so the board can't run the heating cycle properly. Basically the machine lost its thermometer and it won't guess.
moderate
CLEAN-7-BLINKSeven blinks means the control board fired up the heater circuit but never got confirmation that water temperature hit the target. Either the element didn't draw current, or the high-limit thermostat cut the circuit early. The board logged it as a heater fault and threw the code.
moderate
CLEAN-8-BLINKEight blinks of the Clean light means the control board detected low wash performance. The dishwasher finished a cycle but the washing conditions, like water pressure, temperature, or spray arm coverage, fell below its minimum thresholds. This isn't typically a failed component. It's a performance fault pointing straight at maintenance issues.
low
CLEAN-9-BLINKNine blinks of the Clean light on a KitchenAid dishwasher means the diverter valve or diverter disc motor has a fault. The diverter system controls which spray arm zone receives water during the wash cycle - routing water between the lower spray arm, upper spray arm, and (on KDTM models) the third rack spray bar. A failed diverter means water may only spray from one zone.
moderate
E1 F9E1 F9 means the control board timed out waiting for the water level to drop during the drain cycle. It allows roughly 2 minutes. If the float switch doesn't confirm the tub's empty in time, it shuts everything down to prevent flooding. It's almost always a physical blockage, not an electrical failure.
moderate
F8 E4F8 E4 on a KitchenAid dishwasher means the control board did not detect that the dishwasher filled with water within the expected time, or the anti-flood float switch under the unit has been triggered by water in the base pan. The dishwasher shuts down to prevent damage. This is the highest-volume fault code for KitchenAid dishwashers.
moderate
F9E4A KitchenAid F9E4 means water accumulated in the plastic drip tray under the main tub and lifted the safety float switch. The board sees that signal and forces the drain pump to run continuously to prevent a flood. The machine won't do anything else until that float drops back down.
high
HUBKitchenAid uses three totally different ways to display fault codes depending on the model year. Newer ones show alphanumeric codes like F8 E4 on a screen. Older models with no display make the Clean light blink in a two-part pattern. Some show just a number like 8-4. Same fault, three different ways to tell you about it.
moderate
KITCHENAID-DRAIN-ISSUEAt the end of a wash cycle the control board fires up the drain pump to push water through the hose and out to your sink drain or disposal. When something blocks that path, or the pump itself fails, the water just stays put. That's what you're dealing with.
moderate
NOT-CLEANINGWhen a KitchenAid dishwasher fails to clean, it indicates a failure in the water circulation system, a blockage in the filtration assembly, or an issue with water temperature and detergent delivery.
moderate
POPO on a KitchenAid dishwasher display is not an error code. It means the Delay Start feature is active and the dishwasher is waiting to begin its cycle at the programmed delay time. The dishwasher is counting down the delay period and will start automatically when the countdown reaches zero.
low

Microwave

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CodeMeaning
DOOR-ERRORThe 'Open/Close Door' error on KitchenAid microwaves is identical to the Whirlpool microwave door error because KitchenAid microwaves are manufactured by Whirlpool. The same 3 door interlock switches, door hooks, and diagnostic approach apply.
moderate
F1 E5F1E5 on a KitchenAid microwave indicates the humidity sensor used for sensor cooking has failed or is reading out of range. KitchenAid microwaves are Whirlpool-manufactured, so this code is shared with Whirlpool models.
low
HUBKitchenAid microwave error codes are identical to Whirlpool codes because that's literally who makes them. Same F/E code system, same door interlock switches, same touchpad membranes. You're not dealing with some proprietary KitchenAid tech here, it's a Whirlpool with a nicer badge.
moderate
NO-HEAT-FIXThe magnetron is what actually generates microwave energy. When the high voltage circuit fails, whether it's the diode, the capacitor, or the magnetron itself, the unit just runs its motor and timer with zero heat being produced. Nothing's telling it to stop, so it hums along uselessly.
high

Oven

View all 9 codes →
CodeMeaning
F1 E0F1E0 on a KitchenAid oven means the control board's EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory) has failed. The EEPROM stores the oven's calibration data, model configuration, and operational parameters.
high
F1 E1F1E1 means the control board's internal communication has broken down. On a single oven, the board's talking to itself and getting no response from an internal component. On double ovens, it's the two boards that've stopped talking to each other through the wiring harness connecting them.
high
F2 E0F2E0 on a KitchenAid oven specifically indicates the Cancel/Off key circuit is shorted. This is more specific than F2E1 which indicates any key - F2E0 points directly to the cancel key circuit on the keypad membrane.
moderate
F2 E1F2 E1 means the control board detected a key stuck in the pressed position, most commonly the Cancel/Off key circuit. Something's holding that circuit closed when it shouldn't be. Same code as Whirlpool F2 E1 since they share the same control architecture.
moderate
F6 E1The F6 E1 error code indicates a communication failure between the oven control board and the user interface or display board.
high
F9 E0F9E0 on a KitchenAid oven means the door latch will not release after self-clean. The latch motor ran the self-clean cycle but the bimetal lock mechanism has not cooled enough to release, or the latch motor itself has failed.
moderate
GLASS-REPLACEMENTKitchenAid cooktop glass repair means replacing the cracked, shattered, or heavily pitted single-piece ceramic glass surface on a range or standalone cooktop. The ceramic glass is both the cooking surface and the electrical barrier between you and the radiant heating elements underneath.
high
KITCHENAID-IGNITER-TSThe igniter's resistance has climbed high enough that it can't draw the current the safety valve needs to open. That valve's built to stay shut unless it sees at least 3.2 amps, so even a glowing igniter pulling only 2.8 amps won't release gas. Safety system doing exactly what it's supposed to do.
high
KNOB-FIXThe internal plastic D-ring inside the knob grips the flat side of the metal valve stem. When that ring cracks or the tension clip goes missing, the knob can't transfer your turning motion to the valve, so the gas doesn't move and the burner won't light or adjust.
low

Refrigerator

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CodeMeaning
COOLING-FAILUREThe fridge or freezer temps climb above the set point because something in the heat exchange or airflow chain broke down. Could be dirty coils that can't dump heat, a dead fan that won't move air, or a compressor that can't start.
high
FILTER-RESETThe fridge hit its built-in threshold, either 200 gallons filtered or 6 months elapsed, and it's flagging you to swap the cartridge. There's no actual water quality sensor in there. It's just a timer and a gallon counter on the control board that needs a manual reset after you change the filter.
low
HUBKitchenAid runs on the Whirlpool control platform, so when a fault trips, the board logs a code that points to whichever sensor or circuit threw the flag. PO just means the board lost power and came back. Other codes point to specific circuits like the evaporator thermistor, the defrost heater, or the ice maker module.
low
KA-AIRFLOW-ERRYour freezer's making cold air just fine, but it's not getting to the fridge section. Something's blocking the path, whether that's ice on the evaporator coils, a dead fan motor that won't move the air, or a stuck damper that's supposed to open but isn't.
high