KitchenAid refrigerators are manufactured by Whirlpool and share the same error code system. PO (Power Outage) is the most displayed code - it appears after any power interruption and simply requires pressing any button to dismiss.
Nine times out of ten when someone calls me about a KitchenAid fridge throwing a code, it's either a PO from last night's storm or a thermistor that finally gave up after seven years. These are solid machines, but they'll sit there quietly getting worse if you ignore the alerts. A display that keeps flashing means something's actually wrong, and food safety becomes a real concern fast. Don't just keep clearing it.
KitchenaidRefrigerator
About These Kitchenaid Refrigerator Error Codes
OK so here's the deal with KitchenAid fridges. They're basically Whirlpool refrigerators with nicer handles and a bigger price tag, which is honestly good news for you because parts are everywhere and cheap. The PO code throws people into a panic but it clears with one button press. The stuff that actually costs money to fix is usually a thermistor or a condenser fan motor, and neither one is a nightmare to replace.
Most Common Error Codes
PO power outage notification40%
Temperature sensor fault24%
Ice maker failure14%
Condenser fan fault12%
Control board issue10%
Symptoms You May Notice
PO flashing on the display when you walk into the kitchen in the morning, usually after a storm the night before
Ice maker completely stopped producing with no ice in the bin and no cycling sounds even after 24 hours
Freezer is running but everything inside feels like it's just barely frozen, maybe 20 to 25 degrees instead of 0
Condenser fan making a grinding or rattling noise from behind the lower back panel, or total silence when the compressor is running
Food in the fridge section spoiling faster than normal even though the display says the temp is set correctly
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlathead screwdriverMultimeter with ohms settingFlashlight or headlampNeedle-nose pliers1/4 inch nut driver
How to Identify Your Error Code
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range16000–17000 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
KitchenAid/Whirlpool Temperature SensorModel-specific · $15–$30
PO just means Power Outage. The board saw a voltage drop, logged it, and now it's telling you about it. Press any button on the panel and it clears, done. The only reason to take it seriously is if it keeps coming back with no obvious power issues in your area. That could mean your wall outlet voltage is low or there's a loose connection on the power cord at the back of the unit. If you're clearing it three times in a week with no storms, get a multimeter on that outlet and check that you're seeing a solid 120V.
Are KitchenAid refrigerator parts the same as Whirlpool?
Yes, completely. KitchenAid is owned by Whirlpool and the internal components are often identical. When I need a thermistor or a fan motor, I'll look up the Whirlpool part number directly off the component label and usually find it for way less than searching by KitchenAid model number. The freezer thermistor for most of these models is part WP67005560 and it's usually 15 to 20 bucks. Control boards run 150 to 250 depending on the model. Same exact part that goes into a cheaper Whirlpool, just sold in different packaging.
How do I enter diagnostic mode on my KitchenAid refrigerator?
Find the door plunger switch, the little button that clicks when the door closes. Press it three times fast, you've got about four seconds to do all three taps. The display will switch from temperature to diagnostic numbers. On some newer touch-panel models you might need to hold the Lock and Filter buttons simultaneously for about three seconds instead. Once you're in, the unit cycles through each subsystem. Write down any numbers that look like fault codes because they disappear when you exit the menu.
How do I know if my KitchenAid thermistor is bad?
Pull the thermistor connector and put your multimeter on ohms. At room temperature, around 70 degrees Fahrenheit, you should read somewhere between 16,000 and 17,000 ohms. If you're seeing open loop or near zero, the thermistor is shot. They fail open most of the time, meaning the circuit's just broken. I replaced three of these last month on KRFC704FPS units that were all about seven years old. The part's cheap, around 15 bucks, and it's a 20-minute fix if you're comfortable pulling the back panel of the freezer.
Why does my KitchenAid ice maker keep stopping?
Usually it's one of three things. First, check the door switch wiring at the top hinge because on French door models that harness gets pinched over years of use and the fridge thinks the door is open. Second, check the water inlet valve screen because hard water will clog it and starve the ice maker. Third, and most commonly, the ice maker module itself just dies. Run the manual test cycle by pressing the test button on the module. If it doesn't cycle, the module needs replacing. On most of these models that's a 30-minute job and the part runs 50 to 90 dollars.